Author Archives: Harvey Specter
"Sometimes hunting is the only thing that makes sense"
Author Archives: Harvey Specter
"Sometimes hunting is the only thing that makes sense"
The term “match grade barrel” is thrown around a lot in the firearms industry. If you are building or improving a firearm, I’m sure you’ve come across this. However, is this just a way for manufacturers and retailers to charge more for the same firearm, or is the barrel actually that much different?
In this article, we will talk about some of the features of a match grade barrel, and whether or not it is worth it for you.
At its core, a match grade barrel is supposed to be a barrel that allows for match grade accuracy. Essentially, this kind of barrel should allow you to be accurate enough to shoot in competitions with it.
What this means, is that the manufacturer should have tighter tolerances for the barrel. The barrel should fit extremely tightly against the chamber, to increase accuracy. These barrels are generally a little bit thicker and heavier, but are also sometimes made from different materials or treated differently.
However, there are some issues with match grade barrels.
For example, keep in mind that there is no set tolerance for a specific barrel for most weapons. What this means to you is that a match grade barrel made by one manufacturer may not be as good as other manufacturers.
Basically, one manufacturer’s match grade barrel may be worse quality than another company’s normal barrel, dependent on what their normal tolerances are.
Another thing to keep in mind is that firearms manufacturers tend to use the words “match grade” pretty loosely. If you are buying a weapon that is manufactured on a large scale, odds are that the internals are large scale manufactured as well. In this case, the match grade barrel from the factory may not actually be that high quality.
If you are going to buy a match grade barrel, make sure you do so from a well known manufacturer that custom makes each barrel.
Honestly, if you aren’t exactly sure what a match grade barrel is, odds are you probably don’t need one.
A true match grade barrel is very important for competitive shooting, but that is about it. There’s nothing stopping you from getting one for other uses, but you are probably spending a lot more money than you need to on a barrel.
A true match grade barrel from a reputable manufacturer can greatly increase your weapon’s accuracy. However, make sure you actually need to spend this extra money before buying one.
If you are just doing some casual shooting or hunting, you are going to be fine with any barrel. However, if you are doing competitive shooting or extremely long range hunting, a high quality barrel is going to vastly improve your abilities.
If you are upgrading or building an AR-platform weapon, I’m sure you’ve run into the term free float handguard. However, if you are relatively new to firearms, it may be a little difficult to decipher what that actually means.
So, what is a free float handguard? What is a drop-in handguard? Which one should you use? In this article, we will go over some of the basics about handguards, and make some general recommendations about when each type is better.
The handguard of an AR-platform weapon is the part that surrounds the barrel. It is what you hold onto if you’re shooting correctly.
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Having a handguard at all is necessary because the barrel heats up significantly, but choosing between a free float and a drop in can be a little difficult.
We will start with the easier one. A drop-in handguard is essentially just a two piece guard that is held in place by what is called the delta ring of the weapon.
The delta ring is spring-loaded, so it will hold the handguard in place. To change it, all you have to do is take the tension off the delta ring, and remove the old handguard.
Drop-in handguards are extremely easy to install. They are also relatively inexpensive, because it is a very simple system. These are often polymer, but there are also plenty of drop-in handguards that have a rail system to them.
A free float handguard is mounted directly to the upper receiver of the rifle. It doesn’t even touch the barrel at all, and there is no delta ring on the weapon. The term “free float” comes from the fact that the handguard doesn’t touch the barrel.
Free float handguards offer much more in the way of customization. You can get multiple different rail systems, such as KeyMod or M-Lok, and you can get a handguard that is the full length of the barrel. However, most of these options come at a much greater cost. They are also more difficult to install.
If you are looking for an extremely sleek, tactical-style weapon, you are probably envisioning a free-floating handguard. Due to the wide variety of options available, you are able to customize the weapon to meet your exact look.
If you are doing any type of shooting that requires extreme accuracy, a free-floating handguard will be better for you.
When you use a drop-in handguard, it has a little wiggle to it, since it is only held in place by the delta ring. A free-floating handguard won’t move when you are shooting. The fact that it doesn’t touch the barrel also improves the accuracy.
If you’re looking to attach a bunch of accessories, the free-floating handguard can offer more real estate for you. However, you can get drop-in handguards that have four-sided rail systems, and will work just fine for attaching accessories.
If you are just a casual shooter, a drop-in handguard will work just fine. They are easy to install and use, so there is nothing to worry about.
If you are just looking for a simple home defense or survival rifle, a drop-in will also be fine for you.
As you can see, there are actually a few significant differences between the two types of handguards. While both will work great for you, there are certain circumstances that warrant the use of one type over the other.
You’ve seen it. Everyone and their mother has a Glock. You can’t swing a dead cat without hitting a Glock lover. Most police departments have Glocks. Special operations in the military use Glocks. You can’t take a trip to the grocery store without seeing a Glock bumper sticker.
But why? Why are Glocks so popular? In this article, we will go over some of the biggest factors that add into why Glocks are so popular.
Before getting into this, I will preface it with a little story about myself. I used to be staunchly opposed to Glocks. I couldn’t stand that they don’t have a true safety, and I thought they were ugly. Eventually, I got over my own stubbornness, tried out some Glocks, and now I can’t get enough of them. My gun collection went from 12 handguns without a single Glock to 11 handguns and 6 are Glocks. I really do love them.
Why are Glocks so Popular?
Now, let’s get into some of the reasons that Glocks are so popular.
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Reliable. This will be the first thing that a Glock fan talks about. Glocks are extremely reliable weapons. End of story. The weapon won’t jam, and it will fire every single time, without question. Simply put, there isn’t a more reliable semiautomatic striker-fired pistol out there.
Durable. The next thing a Glock fan will talk about is durability. It is not unheard of for a Glock to last up to and over 60,000 rounds put through it. No other pistol will last that long. When you buy a Glock, you are buying a firearm that will last for potentially the rest of your life.
Simple external design. What I once considered ugly, I now consider to be sleek looking. It is not for everyone, but Glocks have a very simple design. There are almost no external features at all, and the square slide looks the same on just about every single one. It’s a very basic and simple design, but it also has its benefits.
Easy to take down. One major benefit of the simple design is how easy it is to take the Glock down. It legitimately could not be any easier to take down. I won’t talk about it much, but it adds into the overall ease of use of the weapon.
Limited internal parts. The inside of a Glock is very simple as well. There are only a small handful of parts in the upper half of the weapon. When there are less parts present, there is less that can break. This is one of the reasons for its durability. However, it is also helpful when you take it down that there isn’t much to keep track of, and there is less to clean.
Easy to modify. Another thing that comes along with having limited parts is how easy it is to modify the weapon. There are a wide variety of aftermarket parts available for Glocks, ranging from internal springs to completely different slides. The options are literally endless for what you could do to customize your Glock.
Lightweight. Glocks were some of the first pistols that were made of polymer. This significantly cuts down on the weight.
Ergonomic. Despite how simple the design of the weapon is, I find it to be the most comfortable pistol I have ever shot. Your hand seemingly fits the weapon perfectly. It is very easy to get on target and shoot accurately thanks to how balanced and comfortable the pistol feels.
Accuracy. Speaking of accuracy, I shoot extremely well with Glocks, and I know I’m not the only one. I like their stock sights, but if you don’t, simply change them out. Like I was saying before, the options are endless.
Trigger. Some people don’t like the trigger, but I think it’s great to shoot with. It has a very fast reset, and a light pull.
As you can see, there is a lot to like about Glocks. I could continue on with more things I love about my Glocks, but this covers most of the basics.
Glocks are extremely reliable, durable, and are very enjoyable to shoot. They are simple, yet sleek looking, and maintenance is a breeze. The number of extremely easy modifications is great, and they are very accurate weapons.
I’m sure you’ve heard of prism scopes, but many people aren’t exactly familiar with them. Wondering what exactly a prism scope is? In this article, we will go over some of the basics of prism scopes, compare them to other scopes, and then make some recommendations.
Prism scopes are a newer scope technology. The easiest way to explain how a prism scope works is to compare it to a traditional lens scope.
A traditional rifle scope works similar to a telescope. It uses a series of lenses to focus light in a specific place. The lens of the scope that is closer to the barrel is called the objective lens. It is larger, which allows for increased light transmission. The lens closer to the eye is called the ocular lens.
Light passes through the objective lens and is focused on a specific point inside the scope. When you look through the ocular lens, the focus point is magnified.
A prism scope functions similarly, but it uses a prism to focus the light rather than lenses. As a result, it is a much more compact optic. Prism sights generally have an etched reticle and an illuminated reticle.
The term “red dot sight” isn’t a specific term. It is actually a more general term that can describe any type of sight that uses an illuminated red dot as an aiming point. One example of a red dot sight is actually a prism scope.
However, when you think of a red dot sight, you are probably thinking of a reflex sight. These come in many shapes and sizes, but are generally some form of lens pane that has a battery operated red or green dot sight.
A prism scope differs from a reflex-style red dot sight in that it is generally magnified and has an eye relief. Prism scopes don’t offer much magnification, but they do offer more than a traditional reflex sight.
For those that are unfamiliar, eye relief refers to how far your eye has to be from the ocular lens to look through the scope. A reflex style red dot sight has no eye relief, meaning that you can accurately shoot with it however you want. A prism sight will require that your eye be in the same spot to use it each time.
Another positive is that the prism scope has an etched reticle generally. This means that if your battery dies or your illumination fails for whatever reason, you will still be able to use the sight.
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Now, you are probably wondering when you should or should not use a prism scope.
If you are hoping to shoot at extremely long distances, you would be better suited for a traditional lens scope. These are available with a much greater magnification range.
For fast paced, tactical shooting, a reflex sight is probably better for you. The fact that you can shoot them with both eyes open and with no eye relief will be much easier and quicker for you.
However, a prism scope is also decent for tactical shooting. They are compact in size, and do acquire targets relatively fast.
If you are just doing casual range shooting, either a prism scope or a reflex sight will work just fine.
For a survival rifle, I would recommend a prism scope. The etched reticle will make the scope useful regardless of whether or not you have batteries.
If you are hunting, I would also recommend a prism scope, for similar reasons.
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As you can see, prism scopes can be very useful. Their combination of compact size, magnification, etched reticle backups, and easy to use red dot aimpoints make them extremely useful scopes for a variety of different uses.
So, you’re working on building or upgrading your AR-15. Everything is going great, until you are faced with one issue. Which coating is best for your bolt carrier group?
There are actually quite a few more options than most people realize. However, it can be pretty confusing trying to pick one of them. In this article, we will talk about some of the available coatings and the differences between them.
We will also make recommendations about when to use which coating.
Let’s take a look!
We will start with the most common coating. Phosphate coating, also known as manganese phosphate coating, phosphating, and Parkerizing, is a pretty simple process. The bolt carrier group is placed in phosphoric acid and heated up to around 200 degrees Fahrenheit.
This coating is extremely common because it is inexpensive and durable. It is used in military rifles, which increases its popularity, but also guarantees its durability. Phosphate coated bolt carrier groups will be very resistant to heat, wear, and corrosion. They will usually be black in color.
However, it does have a few shortfalls. Phosphate coated bolt carrier groups have more friction, so they will require more lube to work well. They are also more difficult to clean.
The next coating we will talk about is the various nickel coatings. These have a variety of names, some of which are nickel boron, nickel boron nitride, and NP3.
This process is slightly more difficult. It is accomplished through electroless nickel plating. Basically, there’s a chemical technique that deposits a layer of a nickel material on the metal of the bolt carrier group.
The result of this process is a bolt carrier group that has almost no friction. As a result, it doesn’t require much lube and is very easy to clean. They are also very sleek looking, as they are usually a shiny silver. However, the nickel coatings are not nearly as durable, and are more expensive than the phosphate coated ones.
Nitride coatings, such as black nitride and Melonite, are very tough bolt carrier groups. This finish is accomplished through a process called ferritic nitrocarburizing. This process requires a pretty high level of chemical knowledge, but we will attempt to give you the down and dirty.
Basically, nitrogen and carbon are diffused into ferrous materials at an extremely high temperature. It requires a salt bath, but the metals undergo a reaction that creates multiple layers on the surface.
What you need to know is that nitride coated bolt carrier groups are extremely hard and durable. They are similar to phosphate coatings in terms of durability, but are slightly easier to clean.
I know what you’re thinking. Isn’t titanium nitride a nitride coating? The answer is no. Just to make all of this even more confusing, titanium nitride is completely different than the other nitride coatings.
Titanium nitride coatings are created through a process called vapor deposition. Once again, this requires some chemical knowledge.
Titanium is changed from a solid to a gas and reacted with nitrogen in a vacuum, which creates very thin film.
A bolt carrier group that is coated with titanium nitride is gold in color, which is awesome.
However, they are also very resistant to corrosion, and are extremely smooth.
Similar to nickel coatings, titanium nitride is very easy to clean, and doesn’t require much lube.
Also similar to nickel coatings, titanium nitride bolt carrier groups are pretty expensive.
Titanium nitride is a better choice than nickel boron though, because it is much more durable.
For most applications, phosphate coated bolt carrier groups are a good choice. They are durable and dependable.
If you are looking for the best overall bolt carrier group, look for a titanium nitride one. However, if you ever might have to be concealed, such as in a tactical or home defense situation, you definitely want to look elsewhere, as the titanium nitride coated bolt carrier groups are a very shiny gold.
If you are building a show weapon, you probably want something that is nicer looking. In those circumstances, a titanium nitride or nickel coating is going to be your best bet.
Similarly, if you are looking for a coating that will not require much lube, titanium nitride and nickel coatings will be your best bet. Nickel will be less expensive, but less durable.
If you just want something tough and durable, check out the nitride coatings. They are very similar to phosphate coatings, but are easier to clean.
No matter which direction you choose, make sure you stick to quality brands. There may be cheaper options out there, but keep in mind that you usually get what you pay for.
The AR-15 is obviously an extremely popular weapon, and as I’m sure you’re aware, there are thousands of parts available. Due to how easy it is to do, building AR-15s is an extremely common trend these days.
However, is it actually worth it to build your own AR-15, or are you better off just buying one? In this article, we will go over some of the pros and cons of building and buying an AR-15 and make some general recommendations about what we would do if we were in your shoes.
When you buy an AR-15 from a manufacturer, it really couldn’t be any easier. You walk into a gun store and walk out with a completely functioning rifle. You don’t have to know each and every internal part, and you don’t have to make any decisions, other than which manufacturer you like.
When we say the guarantee, we mean the guarantee that everything will work exactly as designed. The internal parts will all fit together and work flawlessly.
Sometimes, internal parts from different manufacturers may not work together exactly as they should. Buying an AR-15 gives you the ease of purchase, since you know it will work. If you aren’t too familiar with the AR platform, it can be very nerve wracking trying to build an AR-15.
Another pro is the fact that most manufacturers back their products with some type of warranty, which you will not get if you are building your own AR-15.
The cons of buying an AR-15
When you buy an AR-15, you are getting a very basic rifle. More than likely, everything about the weapon will be very simple. While this isn’t necessarily a bad thing, it is something to keep in mind.
Manufacturers tend to overcharge when they sell a fully put together AR-15. You could build a very similar AR-15 for much less money, but it is going to be more difficult and time consuming for you. How much is the assembly time worth to you?
When you build an AR-15, you can completely customize every single part of it. This allows you to fine tune it to be exactly as you like it. You can customize every inch of it to fit your needs.
Building an AR-15 may also save some money. When you buy the parts and assemble them yourself, it saves money as opposed to buying a full weapon.
It also will give you a complete understanding of your weapon. You will know each and every inch of the weapon, because you put it all together. You know exactly what parts are where, because you ordered all of them.
It is also worth mentioning that it is possible to get an unregistered weapon if you build an AR-15, if you start with an 80% lower receiver. Some states have laws preventing this, but it is worth looking into.
The cons of building an AR-15:
There are some aspects of building an AR-15 that are great. With the exception of the lower receiver, you can buy any part online, get it shipped to your house, and put the weapon together in the comfort of your own home. However, you are going to have to put all of those parts together. It will take you some time.
If you don’t understand the AR-15 weapon system well, it may be a little overwhelming trying to build one. There are a pretty decent number of parts that are involved, so you really need to have a full understanding of the weapon before trying to build your own.
Building an AR-15 also requires some basic mechanical skill and a little bit of patience. It can be very frustrating, especially when parts don’t fit together the way they’re supposed to. Best scope for AR-15 is most important part when you build ar15
If this is going to be your first AR-15, we recommend simply buying one. Buying an AR-15 will give you a complete, working weapon that you can begin to shoot and understand. If you were to buy the parts to build an AR-15 having never seen the inside of one, it is going to be very difficult for you.
Buying your first AR-15 also allows you to figure out exactly what you like in your weapon. This will make an AR that you build even better, because you’ll have more experience with the weapon system. Buy your first AR-15, and build your next to fit you exactly.
If you are going to be doing any competitive shooting, you absolutely should build your rifle.
If you are just a casual shooter, buying an AR-15 will likely be good enough, but it may be more enjoyable and slightly less expensive to build one.
For the hunters and the outdoorsmen, either way will work. Building will allow you to customize the weapon more, but buying an AR-15 will be just fine as well. The choice is really up to you.
If you are trying to get an AR-15 as inexpensive as possible, you should build one.
If you’re short on time, you should buy an AR-15. Building one can be very time consuming.
Whether you buy or build an AR-15, you really can’t go wrong. It is a great weapon system that can do many different things.
Building an AR-15 allows you to fully customize the weapon while saving you a little money, but it requires some knowledge of the weapon and time to put it together. Buying an AR-15 can be slightly more expensive, but is a much easier purchase to make for most people.
It is also worth mentioning that if you buy an AR-15, you can always make upgrades and changes to it as you go. Or, if you take our advice from before, buy your first AR-15 to figure out exactly what you want your weapon to do, and then build your next one.
When hunting it is important to be able to estimate how much meat a deer will yield before killing it. This is so for multiple reasons.
One you are only aloud to kill so many deer per season, so if you are trying to provide enough food for your family, you need to make sure the deer you are killing will provide enough.
Two it cost money to get a deer processed by a butcher, so you want to make sure you are getting enough meat for the money that it is costing you.
Three it takes time to field dress the deer and carry it back to your vehicle, so you want to make sure your time is used on a deer that is worth it.
Due to these factors having a good estimate of how much meat is important before killing the deer. The factors that go into estimating how much meat from the deer will yield is mostly based on the size or weight of the animal.
With practice you can look at an animal and know close to what it weights. Then you can figure out how much it will weigh after field dressing, which you can then use that number to figure out how much meat it will provide.
After reading this article, you will know what you need to consider to figure out how much a deer weights and then you will be able to have a rough idea of how much meat it will produce for you and your family.
So to guess the weight of a live deer you look at the girth.
Depending on where you live the weights can vary slightly, but with practice and experience you can get better at guessing the girth of the deer and knowing the weight before killing it.
For white tailed deer, which are the most common type hunted, a deer with a girth of 24 inches will weight around 55 pounds.
The girth is the distance around the body of the deer at the widest spot.
For each added inch the weight of the deer goes up about five pounds or so. This holds true till you start getting into bigger deer. Then the weight goes up more rapidly.
For a deer that is 30 inches in girth it will weigh around 90 pounds.40 inch girth weight around 182 pounds and so on.
When estimating weight it is also important to consider if it is a doe or buck. Does will pretty much always weigh less than bucks. Also, back to location, northern animals tend to weigh more than southern animals, due to population purposes. When go deer hunting, the best shooting sticks for deer hunting is important, you should have one.
First before figuring out the weight of the animal you have to field dress it. This is not a field dressing guide, so I won't go into detail on how to field dress the deer, but you have to make sure it is dead and then cut it open with a sharp knife.
Cut thru the fur layer, and then the muscle layer separately for best results. You then pull the layers back and pull out the organs. By removing the stomach, intestines, and other organs now, it will make it easier to take back with you and keep the meat fresher, as those parts break down first.
Once you have field dress the deer, removed all the insides, it is time to wrap it up tightly to make sure no contaminants get into the meat as you are taking the deer out of the woods. At this point you can still not guess the weight yet though to get an accurate idea of the yield of the deer.
Their are still a lot of inedible parts such as the bones, head, tail, etc.. that are left attached, but you can start to get a better idea of the final weight of the deer and how much meat it will yield. Field dressing the deer usually causes it to lose about 20lbs from the previous estimate based on girth.
A typical northern doe will weigh around 105 to 120 pounds after field dressing where a southern doe fawn will weigh closer to 45 to 65 pounds after field dressing. Yearling bucks weigh 105 to 125 pounds field dressed, and other bucks weigh more. These are all estimates though and every animal and location is different.
So how much meat is actually on the animal? How much of the weight is edible?
Well, if you have a butcher that is skilled and minimizes lose, then you can get around 75% of the post field dressed weight as meat. On average the weight is broken down to 71-78% meat, where the difference is 6-9% hide, 11-14% as bone, and 5-6% as blood. This does not factor in damage to meat though from a bullet.
The cuts of the meat are roast from the front end, and butt. Steaks from the middle and bottom of back. Ribs from the rib area and chops from area above that, and flanks from the belly/middle section. With this you can look at the structure of the deer and see how much of each type of cut you will get.
So now you know that the amount of meat you get all depends on the size of the deer after it is field dressed, and completely boned and the hide is removed and blood is drained.
You know that you can use the girth of the chest of the deer to determine a good weight estimate, but that location of the deer depends a lot on how much it weights.
A good formula to use to figure out how much meat you will get is to go by carcass weight which is field dressed weight divided by 1.331.
Then take that number and multiple it by .67 to find the boneless weight, and lastly take the boneless weight and multiple it by .7 to get a realistic idea of the weight of the meat you will get, so using this say the field dressed weight is 100 pounds. Dividing that by 1.331 gets 75pounds.
Then multiplying that by .67 gets 50 pounds for the boneless weight and then lastly multiply by .7 gets 35 pounds for the realistic meat yield. That means a hundred pound field dressed deer gets 35 pounds of meat.
Using this formula and practice, you will be able to figure out how much meat you will get before you even kill the deer.
In this article, we will compare two rifle scopes made by Vortex. Those are Vortex Viper 1-4x24 vs Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x24 AR BDC Reticle.
These rifles will be compared in terms of accuracy, durability, capabilities, and price. Finally, we will make some recommendations about when to use each scope.
The Vortex Viper Precision Shooting Tactical (PST) is a variable zoom rifle scope with some excellent features. It is made of high quality materials, is very durable, and is an accurate scope. It has a 30mm tube, measures 9.7 inches long, and weighs 14.4 ounces. At 100 yards, the field of view is 98-27.5 feet, and each turret adjustment results in a ½ MOA change. The eye relief is 4 inches.
The pros of this scope are the accuracy, durability, and ease of use.
In terms of accuracy, this scope is very accurate for a few reasons.
First, the optics are multicoated, and the tube is 30mm in diameter. This allows for increased light transmission, which makes it easier to see down the scope.
The reticle is illuminated, etched in glass, and is on the second focal pane. This makes it always easy to see, and keeps the scale the same.
Pair these features with the small adjustment, and this makes for a very accurate scope.
The scope is also waterproof, fogproof, and shockproof. It has an ArmorTrek exterior finishing. All in all, this is a very durable and reliable rifle scope.
Another great feature of the scope is how easy it is to use. The capped turrets have a reset, so it is easy to zero after sighting in the scope. The internals of the turrets are extremely precise, which makes for reliable sight adjustments. The turrets and magnification setting also have fiber optics, to make it easier to see where it is set.
The reticle is what Vortex calls a Tactical Milling Close Quarter (TMCQ) reticle. It has some hashmarks for ranging, but isn’t as easy to use at range as some of the other reticles we have seen. The primary aiming point is relatively easy to pick up, but not as fast as some others.
The Strike Eagle from Vortex is similar to the Viper PST. It is also a variable zoom rifle scope with a 30mm tube, but offers more magnification. The scope measures 10.5 inches, weighs 17.6 ounces, and has a 3.5 inch eye relief. At 100 yards, the field of view is 116-19.2 feet.
This scope has almost the exact same features as the Viper PST. It has fully multicoated optics and a wide tube. The turret adjustments are still ½ MOA increments. The reticle is also illuminated and glass-etched on the second focal pane. It is just as accurate as the Viper PST.
The durability is nearly the same as the Viper PST. It is waterproof, fogproof, shockproof, and has a hard finish on its exterior.
Similarly, the turrets have a reset, just like on the Viper PST. However, the turrent adjustment mechanics aren’t as precise, although we didn’t experience any issues.
The primary differences between the Strike Eagle and the Viper PST is that the Strike Eagle can zoom further, offers a wider field of view, has a shorter eye relief, and has a slightly better reticle in our opinion.
The shorter eye relief gives you the wider field of view, but will make it slightly more difficult to reacquire targets, depending on how much recoil your rifle has.
The reticle has wider posts, which make for easier target acquisition. The reticle is also a bullet drop compensator (BDC) style reticle, which makes it easier to shoot at longer ranges, if you know what you are doing.
Vortex Viper PST 1-4x24 Riflescope with TMCQ MOA PST-14ST-A:--> Check Price
Vortex Optics Strike Eagle 1-6 x 24 AR-BDC Reticle: Check Price
While both scopes are excellent choices, we have some basic recommendations for when we would use either scope. All 2 product is the best ar15 scope, you should choose one.
The Viper PST would be much better for close range uses. By that, we mean potential tactical and home defense shooting. However, as you increase in range, the Strike Eagle becomes a better choice.
While both scopes have ranging reticles, we found that the BDC reticle of the Strike Eagle was easier to use. Pair this with the greater magnification range and wider field of view, we found the Strike Eagle to be much easier to use at long range.
If you are doing any type of hunting, both scopes are very high quality and durable, so either one would work well. It really comes down to what range you are expecting to shoot at.
So, your AR isn’t cycling properly. After you fire a round, the next round doesn’t enter the chamber. What could be causing this problem?
In this article, we will talk about some of the most common reasons that this may be happening, and give some recommendations in conjunction.
All of these are very simple fixes, but could save you an embarrassing trip to the gun store.
Before getting into some of these potential fixes, we are going to assume that you know how to use the weapon properly and have done the basic immediate fixes, such as tapping the forward assist.
Are you using a different ammunition than you usually do for your ar15? This could be the cause of the issue. For various reasons, some weapons don’t like some ammunitions.
Whether it be the casing or the pressure generated by the propellant, your weapon may simply not like the ammunition you’re using. If you find that your weapon doesn’t cycle well using one ammunition, try using a different one.
This is one of the easiest fixes on the list.
Another very simple fix is cleaning your weapon.
Carbon buildup can cause your weapon to not cycle well, and it is a very easy problem to fix. If you haven’t cleaned your weapon in a few range trips, try cleaning it out and see how it cycles after that.
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Sometimes ammunition feeding issues can be caused by the magazine you are using.
Perhaps the lips of the magazine or the springs in the magazine are worn out.
Try it out with a different magazine, and see if that works better for you.
This isn’t necessarily a simple fix, but the issue could be caused by a leak in the gas blowback system.
Start where the gas tube meets the barrel, and work your way back, looking for leaks as you go.
Dependent on the exact issue, it may be a simple fix, or it may require a whole new gas system.
An old buffer spring may cause the weapon to not chamber the next round properly. Similarly, a greased up buffer spring could also cause the same issue. Check out the buffer spring, and replace or clean it if need be.
If none of these issues are the one causing the malfunction, it may take a professional to diagnose it. There’s a chance that your bolt, bolt carrier group, or chamber are seriously damaged.
These are some of the basic issues that can cause your weapon to not chamber the next round properly of ar15 rifle.
While there are some simple fixes on this list, not everyone will be familiar with them. Unfortunately, it is not always this simple, and sometimes a professional will have to handle it for you.
Owning weapons is great. Owning weapons and knowing how to use them is even better.
Many people own weapons because they are afraid of their home being broken into. However, have you actually thought about what you’re going to do if that happens?
In this article, we will go over some basic home defense tactics. We will make some basic recommendations, but the best thing you can do is have some type of plan.
For this article, we will go over some general courses of action.
The first course of action is to completely avoid the intruder.
To many gun owners, this may seem strange, but your best bet is to avoid the intruder. Getting into a wild wild west shootout in your living room is not your best choice.
If the intruder does not know you are in the house, barricade yourself somewhere with a weapon, contact the police, and wait it out.
However, if you have children that are in separate bedrooms or the intruder knows that you are home, this may not be your best bet.
If you and your family are able to easily run from the threat, that is another viable option. If everyone can safely and quietly get out, arm yourself, leave the home, and call the police.
However, with so many homes having bedrooms upstairs, this is likely not possible for you.
So, if neither of these options work for you, you are going to have to engage the intruder. Before getting into some factors to consider, we are going to assume that your weapon is easily accessible, and preferably is stored with a round in the chamber.
Once you have armed yourself, they key things to consider are cover and speed.
Cover refers to something that can protect you if you are getting shot at. True cover will stop a bullet. A wall is not cover, because a bullet can travel through a wall. As you can imagine, there are very few things within a home that truly are cover. A brick fireplace or extremely thick/heavy furniture may work.
So, with a lack of cover, there are a few things to think about for protecting yourself. If you can kneel down or engage the target from somewhere other than a normal standing profile, it will help you.
Kneeling makes your body smaller, so there is less to aim at. Shooting from a different perspective (such as from upstairs) will also help, because the intruder will have to make very fast adjustments to where they have to return fire... if they are able to.
While a wall is not cover, it will hide your body and give you a significant advantage. If you can peek out from around a wall, you will be able to get a shot off from an unusual position. The intruder will likely not be able to process getting shot at, your body being hidden behind a wall, and returning fire through a wall in rapid succession.
True cover is ideal. If you can shoot from somewhere that you can’t get shot through, you should do that. However, in a house, this is extremely unlikely.
The last thing to consider about engaging an intruder is the speed at which you shoot.
Speed will save your life in this type of situation. You need to be able to rapidly engage a target that will likely be moving and potentially firing back.
When I say speed, I mean being able to rapidly acquire, engage, and re-engage the target.
Having a good sight will help, as it will help you acquire the target faster than iron sights. Familiarity with the weapon will allow you quickly turn the safety off and engage the target. Having a bright light mounted to your weapon will also help, as it may temporarily blind the target and give you a little extra time to acquire and engage.
This will come from practice. When you are at the range, practice acquiring and engaging targets faster. Doing nothing but accuracy shooting off of a shooting stand will not help you. Put yourself in some uncomfortable situations, from different positions, and acquire targets as fast as you can.
You can even do dry runs in your house. If you do this, make absolutely certain your weapon is cleared.
Lastly, keep in mind where you will be shooting. Like we said before, bullets will travel through walls. Make sure you are aware of exactly where everyone in the house is before shooting at anything.
If you are shooting a shotgun with the best scope, most shot will be slowed down significantly, but slugs will definitely travel through walls.