Author Archives: Harvey Specter
Author Archives: Harvey Specter
Deer are among the most mystical creatures on the planet. Long sought after by hunters. The cause of many ‘oohs’ and ‘ahs’ among children and hikers. A regular sighting in many regions throughout the world.
But with how common deer are throughout North America, it’s surprising how little most people know about them. We’re aiming to change that.
Today we’re going to take a look at how and why deer shed their antlers.
Antlers on deer are, for all intents and purposes, an extension of bone.
Honeycombed bone, to be exact, that grows outside of the body. They extend outward from the pedicles. These are permanent fixtures on a deer’s head that develop during the first year of the buck’s life.
Each year, the antlers protrude outward from the pedicles.
There may be slight differences in the antlers year to year.
A buck’s health is one major reason for this.
The antlers will develop quickly. The process usually doesn’t take longer than two to four months and starts late in the Spring here in North America.
Testosterone, the male hormone, is the main factor in how a deer’s antlers will develop. Velvet is formed.
Over the course of the Spring, Summer, and Fall, the deer will typically rub his antlers against trees.
The velvet, as a result, shrinks and starts to tumble off, a procedure that actually benefits the animal because the antlers are strengthened and grow back again the next year.
The entire procedure is rehashed every Spring, and as long as the deer maintains decent testosterone levels he will keep his antlers deep into the Autumn season.
Here is a time lapse antler growth video:
Why do deer shed their antlers?
It may not surprise you to learn that the reason this happens is purely natural. It all starts during the rut. Throughout this time, deer begin to lose the velvet on their antlers. It usually begins to happen in November in North America.
The biggest reason behind this is a drop in testosterone in the deer. As the testosterone drops, the antlers begin to loosen and eventually fall off. Without high levels of testosterone, the deer experience a weakening in the tissue, as well as the bones, at the base of the antlers.
Once a significantly low point is reached, the antlers fall off.
There is a defined evolutionary process behind the shedding of a deer’s antlers. How familiar are you with photoperiods? Photoperiods act alongside the testorone to develop the antlers and determine when they will fall off. Genes also help determine early or late development and shedding of antlers because family history can have an impact on the overall health of the deer.
Emotional factors play into this as well. Deer experience social anxiety much like humans, which has a negative impact on their health and thus can lead to earlier dropping of the antlers.
A deer will generally lose his antlers at a similar point every year, barring medical emergency. Testosterone levels rise during the development and the subsequent shedding of the velvet. As the seasons begin to change, the physiological reaction of antler shedding is triggered.
Depending on where you are located in North America, early spring is typically the best time. Those in Colorado and southern parts of the country can start earlier because it typically warms earlier than it does in Canada, Minnesota, and other northern and colder areas.
We like to point out that while antlers can be found year round, the rise in popularity of collecting them generally means that if you aren’t on the ball early in the spring, there’s a strong chance that you will miss out entirely.
February for southern areas is a great time to start. Further north, March into April will suffice. Often, it depends on snow melt because the antlers might get covered over the course of the winter.
Light snow years mean that antler hunters can get out earlier than during heavy snow years. Ar15 with best scope for deer hunting is good choice in a deer hunt
Here is a great video of a buck shedding antlers.
This all depends on how rapidly the deer’s testosterone levels drop.
In many cases, this can happen in less than two days. The antlers may appear to be firmly affixed one day. Then, as the rut progresses and natural cycles occur, the antlers begin to loosed rapidly
Before long, a sudden jerk of the head or scare from afar puts that final feather on the dam. The tissue is no longer strong enough to support the antlers, and as a result they simply fall off.
Generally speaking, peak condition bucks will hold onto their antlers longer than unhealthy or weaker bucks. They are able to maintain stronger tissue and remain in better physical condition, resulting in higher than average antler-to-head durability.
Late drop can be affected by a few distinct causes. Variable deer populations in an area play a big role. Low population means shedding won’t optimize until late March or April.
Second, first-year grovels that achieve rearing weight their first winter will come into estrous. This for the most part happens well after the pinnacle groove and is the primary driver of the second trench in many spots.
Also, circumstances like these will keep a buck’s testosterone levels higher for longer periods of time. If there is a lot of rivalry going on among male bucks, testosterone levels will peak. Strong mating seasons also have a similar effect.
Now you’ve got a general understanding of why and when deer shed their antlers.
The most important thing to keep in mind is what part of the continent you’re in. We can’t emphasize this enough- get out early! Early season leads to better antlers that are found with more ease and less time.
If you’ve enjoyed this article, please give us a share on social media. We all love deer, hunting, and antler collecting. Help us spread the good vibes! If you have specific hints on antler collecting that relate to your area, leave them in the comments below. Let’s make this the ultimate resource for antler knowledge!
To someone new to hunting or firearms, it can be a difficult to decision to choose between a shotgun and a rifle.
In this article, we will go over the pros and cons of each, and make recommendations for when each one is better.
Before starting, we will go over some shotgun and rifle basics.
Shotguns are firearms that shoot shells rather than the traditional cartridge.
Shells are loaded into the shotgun, and are either automatically or manually (pump style) cycled through after shooting the shotgun.
Shotguns traditionally fire “shot,” which is a higher quantity of smaller projectiles, but can also fire a slug. Slugs are one larger projectile, and essentially make the shotgun a basic rifle.
The pros of a shotgun are the versatility, legality, and slug size.
Shotguns are some of the most versatile weapons. With very few changes, you can hunt birds and big game with the exact same weapon.
By changing the shell used, you are able to do many different types of hunting with a shotgun.
In some places, you are not able to hunt with a rifle. In this situation, a shotgun shooting a slug is an excellent choice to be able to hunt.
Similarly, a slug that is shot from a shotgun is generally much larger and heavier than traditional rifle projectile.
As a result, a shotgun shooting slugs is much deadlier.
The cons of a shotgun are the accuracy and the range.
When a shotgun is used to shoot slugs, it is not nearly as accurate as a high quality rifle.
While scopes can be mounted on a shotgun, the accuracy is still limited.
There are shotguns available specifically for slugs with a rifled barrel, but this limits the shotgun to only shooting slugs.
Similarly, the range is limited to 75-100 yards, while high quality rifles can easily shoot out to 300+ yards.
While there are countless different types of rifles, they all function basically the same.
Rifles fire a traditional cartridge, which has a projectile located above a propellant filled casing. Rifles fire this projectile downrange at extremely high rates of speed. There are many different cartridge sizes available.
The pros of a rifle are the range, accuracy, and the available options.
As previously mentioned, many modern rifles can accurately shoot out to 300+ yards.
When paired with modern optics, shooting to 300 yards is not even a stretch for the experienced marksman.
Due to the rifling in the barrel, rifle projectiles are able to travel much further and much more accurately.
With modern rifles, there are many options available. There are seemingly endless cartridge sizes and ammunition types.
Choosing the exact cartridge size you would like to shoot and pairing it with a hand chosen ammunition will help to ensure your exact needs are met.
However, even with the multiple cartridge and ammunition possibilities, rifles are still extremely limited compared to shotguns.
If you are having an ar15, you should choose the best optic for your ar15.
The cons of a rifle are its limited uses and potential legality issues.
Despite the fact that there are so many cartridges available, once you select your rifle, that specific cartridge is all that the weapon will be able to shoot.
With a shotgun, you can shoot multiple different loads of shot as well as slugs.
The other con, as previously mentioned, is that in some areas it is not legal to hunt with a rifle.
As you can see, both rifles and shotguns serve specific purposes.
While there are definitely circumstances where one is better than the other, they are both very useful weapons.
Shotguns are some of the most versatile firearms out there, and modern rifles have come a long way in terms of effective range and accuracy.
All said, decide what you need your firearm to do, and decide from there whether a shotgun or a rifle better suits your needs.
To first understand the basics of shotgun slugs, you must understand what exactly a slug is and how a shotgun works.
A shotgun is a firearm that shoots shells rather than the traditional rifle cartridge.
So what's the shotgun shells?
The traditional rifle cartridge is generally some type of a metal filled with a propellant and the projectile on top of the cartridge. Both are fired by a firing pin striking a primer.
After the shotgun is fired, many shotguns are pump action. When the pump is pushed rearward, it ejects the spent shell, and loads in the next shell.
As previously mentioned, a slug is one solid projectile, rather than smaller projectiles, such as birdshot or buckshot.
When a slug is fired from a shotgun, one larger solid projectile is fired, making it similar to a rifle firing a bullet. A shotgun firing a slug can be viewed as a simple rifle.
When compared to a similar hunting rifle, a shotgun slug is much heavier. source
Generally speaking, a rifle slug is at least twice as heavy as a comparable rifle bullet. I have a article to compare shotgun with rifle, you can read it in here.
While an advanced rifle fires its projectile nearly twice as fast, the sheer weight of a shotgun slug makes it extremely deadly.
However, the range of a shotgun with a slug is much less than that of a rifle.
A general rule of thumb is that slugs work within 100 yards. Modern advanced rifles can accurately shoot out to at least three times that far.
Another con of using a slug is that they cost slightly more than rifle ammunition.
There are multiple situations in which using a shotgun firing slugs would be better than using a rifle. This is some situations:
Shotguns are an extremely versatile weapon. Slugs are just another facet of their versatility.
Shooting slugs from a shotgun give you a basic rifle. While the range is greatly decreased, it fires a much larger and heavier projectile than most rifles, making it a much deadlier projectile. (You should choose the best scope for ar15 rifle to make a perfect shot)
While the slug is by no means a one size fits all answer, there are definitely specific circumstances in which shooting a slug is more than likely better than most rifles.
While it will ultimately come down to personal preference, a shotgun shooting slugs is a formidable weapon for hunting.
Despite the fact that a striker and a hammer serve the same purpose, they are actually a little bit different.
Ever wondered when a striker fired weapon may be better than a hammer fired weapon?
In this article, we will go over the differences between the two and a comparison about when each firing mechanism is better to have.
For starters, striker fired and hammer fired refer to how the firearm actually fires a bullet.
A hammer fired weapon, as the name may imply, has a hammer.
A perfect example is a revolver and any 1911 semiautomatic pistol.
When you rack the slide of a hammer fired weapon, it cocks the hammer back.
When you pull the trigger, the hammer will fall, which strikes the firing pin. The firing pin then springs forward and punches the primer of the cartridge, which then initiates the propellant that sends the bullet down range.
However, one thing to keep in mind is that not all hammer fired weapons have external hammers. There are some weapons that have internal hammers that you will not be able to see.
Striker fired weapons are fired by an internal striker.
Think about any Glock firearm. These all work with an internal striker.
When you rack the slide of a striker fired weapon, the internal striker is cocked. When you pull the trigger, that internal striker is what rides forward to punch the primer. Most striker fired weapons can only be decocked by pulling the trigger.
One common thing that you hear is that hammer fired weapons are safer.
People say that because of the fact that you are able to decock the hammer, you are unlikely to accidentally discharge the weapon. Once you rack the slide and a round is chambered, you are able to decock the hammer, if you are not ready to shoot yet.
In a striker fired weapon or a weapon with an internal hammer, you are NOT able to decock the hammer or striker.
Usually, the only way to decock the hammer is to fire the weapon, although you can obviously pull the slide back and take the round of the chamber.
My opinion is that both firearms are definitely safe in the right hands, but the external hammer does add an additional degree of safety.
Another reason that I think hammer fired weapons with an external hammer are slightly safer, is that you can actually see the position of the hammer, so you will know exactly what position the firearm is in.
In my opinion, hammer fired weapons with an external hammer are excellent for new shooters.
Being able to physically see the position of the hammer, and what pulling the trigger does to the hammer is a tremendous advantage to someone new to firearms. However, this is just my personal opinion. Safe handling of any firearm will make it easy for a new shooter to learn and shoot.
Striker fired weapons are more commonly used as concealed carry weapons.
The reason for this is that the striker fired weapons don’t have a hammer that can catch on the user’s holster or pocket. Since everything is internal, it makes for a sleeker weapon with no snags or catches.
For home defense purposes, I also prefer striker fired weapons. The reason for this is that I like the point and shoot use. In a high stress situation, there is nothing to worry about other than aiming and pulling the trigger.
For hunting and general shooting purposes, either type of weapon will work, and I don’t really have a preference. The important thing is to ensure that you are using the weapon safely, and are familiar with how it functions.
Related: Best shooting sticks for hunting is good accessories for hunter. You should have one.
Overall, both striker fired and hammer fired weapons systems are excellent options.
The primary difference is how the firearms is actually fired. In a striker fired weapon, an internal striker is cocked back and fired when you pull the trigger. In a hammer fired weapon, there is a physical hammer that does the same.
While both weapons have their pros and cons, they are both excellent choices.
Striker fired weapons generally are better in defense situations, but hammer fired weapons will also perform admirably.
New shooters may learn better from hammer fired weapons, and some old school shooters will prefer hammer fired weapons.
It comes down to personal preference, and whatever you can comfortably and safely use.
Picking out the right scope rings can seem stressful, and is often an overlooked part of pairing your rifle with a scope.
If you don’t make the right selection, your rifle will NOT be as accurate, or even worse, your scope won’t fit at all.
Wondering how to pick scope rings for your rifle?
We will go over what measurements you will need to pick your scope rings.
Scope height refers to the distance from the center of the scope to the outside of the tube at the thickest point.
To find this, you will have to measure your objective lens diameter in millimeters. The objective lens is the biggest lens, and is the closest to what you are aiming at. In other words, it should be opposite from the lens you are looking through.
Once you have this objective lens diameter, add 2-4 millimeters to account for the tube of the scope. Then, divide that number by 2
Alternatively, you can simply measure the entirety of the scope and tube at the objective lens, and divide that number by 2.
Once you have the scope height, you have the height at which the centerline of the scope must sit above the rail.
To choose the best rings, you should choose the smallest ring and base measurement that is also above the calculated scope height.
However, different manufacturers measure ring heights differently.
The first way is to measure from the base of the rings to the center of the rings. If the manufacturer uses this ring height measurement, all you have to do is add the base height to the ring height, and ensure it is the smallest number that is higher than your scope height.
The next way is to measure from the base of the ring to the inner ring edge. If the manufacturer does this, add 12.7 millimeters for a 1 inch tube or 15 millimeters for a 30 millimeter tube to the combined ring and base height.
Once you’ve added in the extra number, make sure that your selected ring is minimally higher than your scope height. If you plan to buy a sights for your ar, i highly recommend you should read best scope for ar10 to have good choice.
Overall, these measurements can be confusing for someone new to scopes or firearms.
There are plenty of calculators available online, as well as tables that have already done the calculations for you.
However, this article was simply to give you an idea where these measurements come from you, and help you in picking the correct scope rings for your scope and rifle combination.
Choosing the correct rings for your scope and rifle is of utmost importance. If your scope sits too high, you will be inaccurate. If your scope sits too low, it may not even fit your rifle. Understanding these measurements is extremely important for someone trying to fit their rifle with a scope.
Using a shotgun to shoot a slug is very common, and they are often used in the same situation as a rifle would be used.
However, when it comes to adding optics, the two are slightly different?
Wondering whether or not you should use a rifle scope on your shotgun? Look no further.
When considering whether you should use a rifle scope on your shotgun, there are a few key factors to consider: recoil, eye relief, and effective range.
Shooting a shotgun, even when using a slug, creates a good bit more recoil than using a standard hunting rifle.
While many do not consider it, recoil affects your scope.
Constantly being rattled around by the recoil of the weapon can affect the accuracy of the scope.
Shotgun scopes are generally sturdier, and are built to withstand the recoil from a shotgun.
Rifle scopes are generally not built to withstand the same amount of recoil, so that leads to problems.
These problems could range from inaccuracy over time to potentially even ruining the scope.
When making your decision, be sure to keep the recoil of the weapon in mind.
So what's the Eye Relief?
Eye relief refers to how close your eye has to be to the scope to effectively see down it.
The eye relief of a shotgun scope is generally longer than the eye relief of a rifle scope.
The primary reason for this is that the shotgun scope has to take into effect the amount of recoil that the weapon produces.
Using a rifle scope means that you will have a shorter eye relief.
When you do this, you run the risk of potentially having your weapon’s recoil cause the scope to hit you in the eye.
While it sounds unlikely, it is entirely possible given the worst circumstances.
When I say effective range, I mean the range at which a particular firearm can fire accurately.
For a shotgun shooting slugs, a general rule of thumb is that the effective range is approximately 75 yards.
While it varies greatly based on the exact weapon and ammunition, rifle ranges can extend well past that.
For that reason, the two types of scopes must be designed differently. A shotgun scope is perfected to work within 100 yards, while rifle scopes can be accurately used out to 300+ yards.
As a result, the required magnifications changes drastically. Rifle scopes are generally more magnified, as they are designed to be used at a greater distance.
Following from the maximum effective range, the scopes will have different reticles, in order to be more accurately and effectively used at their designed range.
While it is not impossible to use a rifle scope on a shotgun, I would NOT recommend it. Best shotgun scope will work well on your shotgun
It can be done, but I would urge you to do a lot of research. Due to the differences in effective range, eye relief, and recoil of the designed weapon, the different scopes will have vast differences.
I would recommend getting a specific shotgun scope, but the choice is ultimately up to you. I would hate to hear about an expensive rifle scope getting ruined by using it on a shotgun, as I have heard of before.
There are so many scopes for an AR-15 available these days that it can be tough to determine which one is the best.
As many have learned, the vast majority are completely overrated.
What we’ve got here today is a list of the five best scopes for an AR-15, and why each one made the list.
One stands tall above the rest, but each of these is worth a listen. But first, quick check out pick:
This is my review about 5 best ar 15 scope on the market, it will help you find the best for hunting. Check out it:
This is a firm AR-15 scope for general use.
It’s great at on-the-fly movements when hunting in a fast-paced environment. The zoom knob never sticks or over-rotates and the labels are right in line with the actual zoom you’re seeing.
One thing to note is that unless it’s really bright outside, the illumination will need to run at a high setting. The scope does what it advertises, and seems built to last. However, it’s not all roses and fairy tales.
One main concern is that it seems they rushed certain elements of the design. Both the reticle and the eyebox are not up to par with the top of the industry. When shooting a target further than 100 yards away, and any time the magnification is cranked up high, they both just seemed too tight and generally uncomfortable
Bushnell Optics take ballistic calibration to the next level with the BTR-1 BDC Reticle.
It comfortably ups any hunter’s game with their AR-15, solving the problem of long-distance sight without hindering any other parts of the process.
The performance for long range shots is what this scope does best, and here’s why:
This scope is the best available for holding zero, meaning hunters won’t need to recalibrate in the middle of a day in the field. Once you’ve adequately installed the scope and zeroed in, you’ll find it is the optimum representation of accuracy.
Among the best scopes for an AR-15 is the Nikon P-223.
The power here lies in the unit’s diversity. It’s built for heavy recoil, but also functions well with easier to handle guns.
If you are looking for an all-around winner to handle most any situation with your AR-15 this is the one.
Another big plus is that it used 1 inch rings. As opposed to 30mm rings, this gives the shooter increased height which can benefit their visibility.
One issue some shooters notice with heavy use is that the screws may become loose.
This issue shouldn’t arise until well after 1500 rounds, but if it does, there are easy solutions.
Simply tighten the screws before they fall off, preventing loss. Additionally, try to get in the habit of double checking all screws and joints on your AR-15 before each time you head into the field.
This will ensure the Nikon P-223 works properly and won’t cause any issues mid-hunt.
Overall, this is the best mid-range AR-15 scope. Here it is being tested.
This is the scope to stock up on for shooters needing eyesight enhancement on multiple AR-15s.
Deer hunters especially seem to have taken to this scope to target moving animals. Keeping them in range across altering distances is a breeze, as is accounting for their body movements.
A big bonus when trying to strike a specific spot and not having any margin for error.
But be careful on those high-recoil weapons – if this scope is loose or not properly affixed, it can jolt back and strike you. In some rare cases, this may cause injury.
The problem is easily avoided by double checking to make sure everything is secured as tight as can be. Other than that, this is a solid option.
Hunters will easily get used to how it feels on their gun. It’s very easy to find consistency on different AR-15s when you’re zeroed and know the ins and outs of your scope aren’t going to be changing.
What you’re getting here are the best optics on the marked.
The Horseshoe/Dot 5.56 model is the epitome of optimized visibility. The illumination is not dependent on crappy batteries, which is one of the best features of this AR-15 scope.
While some aren’t fans of the short eye relief, experienced shooters will note that because the visibility is so great as is, their line of sight is already better than it is without this scope.When compared with other models of this Trijicon ACOG, the H/D 5.56 stands tall because of how adaptable it is and the easy mounting.
For rapid shooting and tough range practice, this scope is the best available for your ar15. You’ll find bullet drop is stress-free.
The promise is ranges out to nearly 2,000 feet, which has been tested and proven. A solid option
Two of the best scopes for an AR-15 stand out from this list. The Vortex Optics Strike Eagle 1-6 x 24 AR-BDC Reticle is the industry leader in its class, and if you’ve got the depth it is highly encouraged to go this route.
The Nikon Prostaff is the second-best scope for an AR-15. It is consistent and holds up better than the others on this list. The Nikon scope works well for novice and uninformed hunters, but doesn’t stack up against these two. The others on the list perform well – but what they fail to do is think outside the box.
Therefore, it really can only be the Vortex Spitfire the holds the title as the AR-15 scope. This one comes highly recommended and will satisfy even the most skeptical of hunters.
If you have enjoyed this article, or have a scope that was overlooked, go ahead and leave a comment below.
Put a comparison with one or more of the scopes on this list so that readers have a frame of reference to where you’re coming from. Also, please share on social media. Sharing is caring, and in the hunting world, the more informed we all are, the better we’ll be going forward.
When it comes to short-action cartridges, few have seen the rapid rise in popularity of the 6.5 Creedmoor.
Reports come in from all over the country about hunters making the switch and moving to this effective, thorough cartridge.
Is this a good thing?
Are hunters actually noticing an improvement in their skill and results?
The answer lies in the testimonials, and we’ve heard so many. But we finally wanted to answer the question flat out: is the 6.5 Creedmoor good for hunting?
I firmly believe that part of the obsession is just a trend.
Shooters latching on to what’s current and what the people in the public spotlight are using.
That said, there are a few really incredible happenings that have clearly swayed public opinion on the cartridge. For instance:
Any readers of popular shooting pubs like Guns & Ammo and Field and Stream likely have noticed the rise in discussion about the Creedmoor and its firm place in the mainstream arena.
This is a big cause of its increased use, and is a result of it being good for hunting.
Media discussions will continue just as surely as talks around the campfire about the Creedmoor’s durability and dependability across various situations.
Another cause behind the affection is the solid build of the 6.5 Creedmoor.
Everything about the construction is solid and ensure long term performance will not be affected by small adversities.
This stretches beyond the cartridge itself – hunters notice an increase in the longevity of their hunts because they aren’t worn out or suffering from a sore shoulder.
New hunters have an easier time finding their comfort zone and getting up to speed with more experienced hunters.
One of the reasons the 6.5 Creedmoor is so popular with hunters is that it is versatile.
Fans of shooting history may recall that the last time the world saw such a craze with customize-able firearm accessories came in the 1950s with the influx of classic military weaponry to public hands.
A similar craze is happening now, as a clearly superior product continues to increase its market dominance. We’ve yet to see any stain on the reputation, so look for this cartridge to continue increasing in use and popularity.
6.5 cartridges do so well with these guns that it’s a natural fit – and because the Creedmoor is both modern and compatible with popular guns, the resulting success is no surprise.
The Creedmoor performs well in long-range hunts and those with rapidly moving targets. Hunters easily become comfortable with setting the cartridge and follow-up. It’s rare to see any kind of jam or frustration on the part of the hunter when using the 6.5 Creedmoor.
You should have the best gun safe for the money, it will keep safe for your firearms.
Any who doubt this need to look no further than the competition results over the last few years.
The 6.5 Creedmoor is among the most accurate cartridges available for the everyday hunter. Recoil is not an issue, assisting not only accuracy but hunter comfort as well.
Many find that with the shot, they have no problem holding ground. As a result, they are more confident lining up the shot and coming to zero, knowing that when they pull the trigger their effort will be right on track.
One situation where this cartridge is not great for hunting is for big game.
The 6.5 Creedmoor performs well with mid-sized animals such as deer, and slightly smaller creatures.
But you don’t want to be out there hunting a Sasquatch with this thing. Likewise, short range shots under 25 yards don’t necessitate such a badass cartridge.
While it will certainly get the job done, it’s almost like overkill – unless you’re in practice mode or otherwise trying to up your skill level.
This is the main reason why it has become so popular, and firmly confirms the fact that this cartridge is good for hunting.
Durability of the hunter. Namely, his or her shoulder and body. The Creedmoor won’t tear you up after a day of shooting like a .308 will.
The recoil is so negligible that firing dozens of shots on the Creedmoor is causes less wear on the hunter than firing five shots with a .308.
Here is a video of the cartridge in action with Ruger Precison. If you have a Ruger Gun10/22, you should buy the best scope for ruger 10/22, i highly recommend you have one.
Hunters notice less deflection by wind and less effect on their overall accuracy.
Everything that has to do with the Creedmoor, including stock ammo, is more affordable than many other cartridge selections as well.
Hunters are consistently coming to the conclusion that once you go Creedmoor, you never go back.
Fifty years from now, this cartridge will have the track record and reputation of the most legendary hunting cartridges available – wait and see!
Is the 6.5 Creedmoor is good for hunting?
The answer is a resounding and emphatic ‘YES’. It is great for hunting.
The one thing that may put a dent in the Creedmoor’s rise in use is the invention of a better product that – and here’s the kicker – not only out-performs the Creedmoor, but has a solid marketing team behind it to cause a media blitz and completely overhaul the discussion.
Hopefully this article has shed some light on the 6.5 Creedmoor and why it is so good for hunting.
Please share on social media if you’ve enjoyed this post, and feel free to post your thoughts in the comments below. We always love hearing about new situations where the Creedmoor has done the job. What’s yours?
As their names may suggest, .45 Long Colt and .44 Magnum are very similar rounds.
Ever wondered what the specific differences are?
In this article, we will go over some key differences, and what situations may be better for each caliber.
For starters, the name .44 Magnum is slightly misleading.
This name would suggest that the bullet is .44 inches in diameter, when in reality, it is .429 inches in diameter.
The bullet is fired from a 1.285 inch case. This round can be used in handguns, rifles, and revolvers.
While it is newer than .45 Long Colt, it is still a relatively old round.
Unlike the .44 Magnum, .45 Long Colt is true to its name.
The bullet is approximately .45 inches in diameter.
Similar to the .44 Magnum, .45 Long Colt is fired from a 1.285 inch case.
This specific round is used solely in revolvers, and is an extremely historic round. It was first designed over a century ago.
As you can tell, the .45 Long Colt is the same height as the .44 Magnum, but slightly wider.
As a result,
Ballistic testing has shown that .44 Magnum is shot much faster than .45 Long Colt. When shot from a similar length barrel, .44 Magnum will be much faster.
For our purposes, we will use a 5 inch barrel for a comparison.
When shot from a 5 inch barrel, .45 Long Colt has a muzzle velocity of 957 feet per second, while .44 Magnum has a muzzle velocity of 1270 feet per second.
.44 Magnum shoots a bullet that is nearly the exact same size at a much higher rate of speed.
What this means to you, is that .44 Magnum is deadlier.
This improved performance is the result of nearly 100 years of ammunition and weapons technology advancements between the creation of .45 Long Colt and .44 Magnum.
Given this ballistic data, I would recommend using .44 Magnum over .45 Long Colt in a self-defense or hunting scenario.
If you are simply shooting for fun, both cartridges are extremely fun to shoot, and either will work.
Overall, both .44 Magnum and .45 Long Colt are excellent cartridges. While .44 Magnum has better ballistics, .45 Long Colt is an absolutely iconic American cartridge.
With more modern weapon technologies and more versatile weapons, .45 Long Colt has remained relevant today. Weapons such as the Taurus Judge and the Smith & Wesson Governor are capable of shooting .45 Long Colt, along with .410 bore shotgun shells, so the round still sees plenty of use.
If you are new to firearms, then you may have come across bonded or non-bonded bullets and wondered what the difference was.
Well, the answer is really pretty simple, but it has to do with how the bullet is made.
To learn the exact differences between a bonded and non-bonded bullet than continue with reading this article and digging deeper into the subject this article will also provide you valuable information on when it is best to use a bonded or non-bonded round.
So what is the bonded bullet?
A bonded bullet is when the core of the bullet is bonded to the jacket.
This can be done in a variety of ways including electro processes and electro-chemical means.
The way the manufacturer creates a bonded bullet isn’t really the important thing, but the reason why they do it is important.
The main reason for a bonded bullet is it keeps the core and jacket from separating when the bullet penetrates into the target. This is a benefit because it helps the bullet hold most all of its weight into the penetration process.
The reason why the weight is important is the bullet doesn’t expand as rapidly and it goes deeper into the target, especially if the target is thicker fleshed or has a lot of layers.
The fact that the bullet stays together means a deeper and cleaner wound.
When it comes to self-defense the cleanness of the wound may not matter as much to you, but when hunting this could mean the difference of pieces of bullet scattered throughout your game or it being one chunk of metal for you to pull out when cleaning.
Bonded bullets also do an excellent job of going through bone, so if shot placement is off a little with hunting than the effect will be less noticeable with a bonded bullet.
There are some disadvantages to bonded bullets however. One is it cost more to manufacture them.
No matter how the company does the bonding process it is still an extra step and this extra cost has to be passed on to the customer buying the rounds.
Also, since there are extra manufacturing steps they may suffer a little in accuracy. This is because even with top quality control the extra steps means that it is harder to get every bullet coming off the line to be identical. You want your bullets to be identical so they will fire the same way and produce the same results. Consistent results and reliability is really important if you are using the rounds for defense. Outside of these factors bonded bullets still have their place, but these are some of the reasons why they still make non-bonded bullets too.
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Non-bonded bullets are rounds that the core of the bullet and the jacket are not connected.
What's this mean?
This means that when the round is fired it is very likely that it will separate into multiple pieces. This is defiantly true if the target is thick or has parts that can grab onto the bullet. If you are firing into thick flesh, then it can pull the jacket from the round. Also, a hard surface can cause the bullet to shatter on impact. Another quality of a non-bonded bullet is that it expands more rapidly. This means that the penetration may not be as deep.
These things may seem like bad things, but they actually don’t have to be. Since the manufacturing is easier non-bonded rounds cost much less and also since there are fewer steps in making them they fire more consistently. This means that the accuracy is better and with good shot placement a non-bonded bullet is excellent at taking down smaller game where you don’t need deeper penetration. The reason less penetration is good is because it damages less of the meat when you are hunting. If you are hunting deer, then if you place your shot behind the front shoulder, then a non-bonded round will bring it down just as easily as a bonded round. Non-bonded rounds however are not good at going through large game.
The answer to which is best between non-bonded and bonded rounds is it depends on the use.
If you are just having target practice, then a non-bonded round would make a lot more sense because it cost less.
Penetration and deformation results don’t matter if you are just shooting targets for fun. If you are shooting small game or want more accuracy, then a non-bonded round is probably just fine.
It will save you some money and will bring down the small game you are shooting or keep you safe if it is a round you are using for defense. If you are hunting bigger game such as elk or shooting through thicker things, then that is when you may want to consider bonded rounds.
The ability to keep shape better and more consistently on impact is important if you need deeper penetration. Also, if you are shooting the bone or joint of the animal instead of behind the boney part than a bonded round may be what you need.
To sum everything up though there is no right or wrong between bonded and non-bonded rounds.
To answer the question of what a bonded round is, it is simple just a round that has the jacket and core connected. This keeps it from separating and helps the round hold its weight and shape.
When choosing a round it is important to consider your use, but picking a bonded bullet or non-bonded bullet is just one question you have to answer.
Outside of this question you also need to consider caliber of the round and how many grains are behind it.
These are just two other simple questions to think about when choosing a round along with if it is bonded or not.