Author Archives: Harvey Specter
Author Archives: Harvey Specter
Is a coyote being a constant nuisance to you, your property, or your animals?
The best option for you may be to trap it. This is a tricky task, but it can be done.
I trapped my first coyote at the age of 22 after several failed attempts over the years. My grandpa had the method down to a science, but it took me many tries to finally get it right.
Here in this article I’m going to fill you in on how to trap a coyote, and mistakes to avoid during the process.
Coyotes travel in packs, but are very individually motivated when certain instincts chime in.
This is important when it comes to how to trap a coyote because if you catch the wrong one, your damage problems are going to continue.
Before ever setting the trap, do some studying and observing of the coyotes in your area.
Most problem-causing coyotes are youthful males at the peak of their strength and ability. Because of their highly agile demeanor, these coyotes have enough confidence in their skill at getting away (mixed with a lack of control over their instincts) that they are more willing to take risks.
Once you’ve caught a coyote, look for tell-tale signs of livestock damage.
Check their teeth and paws for evidence of a killing. Check their fur for any signs of your property and your livestock.
Some characteristics of the trap I always use, that I got from my grandpa:
Coyotes are prone to return to areas that have been fruitful for them in the past. Set your trap near the area where an incident has occurred. If you have any type of a livestock decoy that can assist the situation, set it up there.
Here is a video on trapping coyotes.
One place I really have found great is elevated areas. I like to place the trip off to the side of a ridge peak. Always in the direction I suspect they are moving in as it relates to where the incidents are occurring.
Here are the most frequent areas I’ve had success when working on how to trap a coyote:
Try to catch the coyote when he least expects it. I’ve found digging a hole and basing my trap setup around that is a great way to get them caught when they can’t wiggle their way out.
Decreased mobility is going to work in your favor. By trapping them partially in a hole or by placing some feed in a hole just beyond the trap, your odds of success will increase.
Here is a video on how to make a dirt hole set.
Also, note the decoy strategy here. The more factors you have working in your favor, the better. How to track a coyote boils down to outthinking him, and taking advantage of him where he is weak. Hills, food, and animals are three of those areas.
Coyotes are smart animals, in addition to being incredibly fast and agile. As such, any type of cage trap isn’t likely to work. The animal will detect it from afar and steer clear of it entirely.
Another thing to avoid is breaking the law. Depending on where you are located, there may be differing regulations and advisable procedures for setting, trapping, and handling a coyote.
Always check with your local wildlife department or animal control sector to find the best way to solve your problem.
Additionally, don’t set up your traps near dry brush.
Coyotes tend to stick away from these kind of areas as them make noise, startle them, and generally aren’t productive for them. The same goes for hay and other animal edibles that coyotes don’t like.
Do some research on what attracts coyotes in your area and incorporate those things into your strategy.
Trapping coyotes is tough, but by following these best practice your odds of getting rid of the nuisance will increase.
If you have to trap a few before getting the right one, so be it. After all, your livestock and income are at stake here.
If you have enjoyed this article, please give it a share on your social channels and do your part to increase awareness. Have a strategy that works in your specific neck of the woods? Check my recent post about the best gun safe for the money to storage your weapon of coyote hunting.
Leave a comment below so that any in the region can adopt the same policy.
The Glock 18 is among the most popular handguns on the market for its purposes.
The weapon was originally developed in Austria and introduced in 1982. I first bought a Glock in the early 1990s, after persuasion from a friend whom I’d been visiting the shooting range with frequently.
Granted, it wasn’t an 18, because they’re near impossible to get.
But it was a Glock, and my buddy had been using one for a few years and loved it. He noted that I would see an increase in enjoyment and accuracy during my shoots.
Let’s take a look at why the Glock 18 is such a legendary piece of equipment, and what separates it from guns that are actually available in the US.
The Glock 18 is a 9mm chambered gun. Made to be full size, these babies are fully automatic and thus fully illegal for the average citizen to buy.
The full-auto component is the main thing separating the Glock 18 from the Glock 17. Anyone who tells you they’ve shot an 18 is probably full of it and has probably only shot a 17. Unless, of course, they’ve got military or police experience.
Basically, the Glock 18 is one of the most badass pistols ever produced. If you’ve never seen one fired before, check out this video. It will get your heart pumping!
The Glock originally was built to meet the needs of the Austrian army after World War II.
They were looking to upgrade their standard issue pistol to be self-loading and have a capacity of eight rounds.
The Glock, as it is commonly referred to as, is specifically designed to be one of the safest pistols available. It can be dropped from a height of over 4 feet without firing.
Additionally, the gun is built to resist just about any type of accidental fire. If you are have a glock, i recommend you buy the best gun safe for the money to keep it safe.
The 9mm Glock 18 automatic can fire 1200 rounds minute – not going to be easy to acquire that one! There have been different models and multiple generations of Glock guns produced over the years, none as legendary as the 18.
Because of its popularity spanning four decades now, Glock 18 shooters have the luxury of being able to modify their gun rather easily.
I’ve got a tactical light on mine that was easy to put on the front rail and has made accuracy and line of sight a non-issue in most situations.
My buddy that got me into the Glock 18 has upgraded his magazine capacity. All this took was a trip to the gun store and a quick consult with the guy behind the counter. He’s also got a real nice pouch that he bought at the shop which fits the increased magazine capacity with no discomfort.
The manufacturer has released upgrades for release levers, trigger upgrades, and even spring cups that prevent the day being ruined by water getting into the firing pin assembly channel.
Not a bad list of ways to ensure you’ve got the best pistol available. Most of this stuff is a bit much for simple range practice. But us gun fanatics can never have enough toys to complete the setup and increase our leg to stand on in weapon conversations.
The simple answer here is: not very easy, at least for the Glock 18s of lore. Here is a quick rundown:
The moral of the story here is that you’re not going to get one. Unless you’ve got a lot of money, power, or are in a law enforcement or military profession. But hey, we can all dream. Right?
I’m guessing that this article has you pretty excited about the prospects of shooting a Glock 18.
If you ever get the opportunity to do so, definitely take advantage of it. I’m a Glock enthusiast and can’t recommend it any higher.
Please help us share the stoke – share this article on your social media channels and encourage people to check it out.
Do you have a story to tell about shooting a Glock 18? Go ahead and leave a comment below and tell us all about it. I bet we can get a diary’s worth of stories here. Bonus points to anyone who has a story of using it professionally in the field – thank you for your service and we look forward to hearing your story.
Full metal jacket or hollow point? This frequent topic of debate is one of the few gun-related topics that actually has fact-based evidence to support both sides of the argument.
I love hollow point bullets and carry them in my concealed weapon. I also like to use them out in the field, and will get into the reasons why in this article.
What many people don’t understand is that there are significant differences between these types of bullets. Let’s take a look at what those differences are, and when each type is preferable over the other.
Simply put, full metal jacket ammo is frequently made of a soft lead core built inside of a shell made up of hard metal such as cupronickel or gilding metal.
The general preference for this type of bullet often stems from the desire for increased muzzle velocity. These bullets maintain their composure and trajectory better than almost any others on the market.
In some cases, full metal jacket ammo contains a steel alloy casing.
FMJ bullets are incredibly strong – it is difficult for metal piercing substances to damage the bore of the bullet.
This, combined with the fact that these bullets do not expand upon hitting their target, makes them ideal for target shooting. Instead of expansion causing the bullet to slow and stop inside the target, full metal jacket bullets pass through and continue on a trajectory.
Full metal jacket ammo is cleaner than unjacketed bullets.
Everything within the bullet is fully concealed. All that has to do with the shooting process is smooth and straightforward, perfect for semi-autos.
For a 9mm, full metal jacket ammo is cleaner and stronger than hollow point.
Hollow point ammo is preferred by hunters and those in defensive situations because it expands upon impact.
This type of ammo maximizes the stopping power of the shot. Targets are crippled and immobilized much more so than they are with full metal jacket ammo, increasing the odds of kill and of a successful hunt.
The expansion is caused by the hallow shape in the tip of the bullet. This allows the internal organs and tissue of the target to be severely impacted and wounded. Penetration is minimized.
For maximum power, many experienced shooters like to use jacketed hallow point bullets.
I personally have found these bullets extremely effective, as the added layer of metal delivers more impact than they otherwise have. What you will find as you progress as a shooter is that hollow point ammo is more versatile than full metal jacket in many situations.
For a 9mm, hollow point bullets are better for shoot to kill and self-defense situations.
Here’s a demonstration of the two.
Full metal jacket ammo has a bit of a sexy appeal to it.
New shooters are attracted by media coverage and the 1987 movie of the same name. It’s proven successful and useful in many military situations and other scenarios.
However, many experienced shooters as well as concealed carry activists prefer hollow point bullets. Let’s take a look at the breakdown:
If you’re planning to head to the gun store to buy some basic ammo for your concealed carry gun or next hunt, the best thing to do is go with hollow point. You’ll find more uses and will have less trouble locating waste and hit targets.
Here is a great video comparing the two.
As you’ve seen here, there is quite a difference in full metal jacket vs hollow point bullets. I hope you’ve gained a better understanding of them.
The general takeaway here is that hollow point bullets expand on contact and thus are more preferable for day-to-day situations because they reduce the risk of hitting targets downfield.
Full metal jacket bullets are stronger and cleaner, and generally better for situations when downfield unintentional targets are not an issue.
If you’ve enjoyed this article, please give it a share on social media. The more education and knowledge we can build in the gun community, the better for all. I’d love to hear about which you prefer – feel free to throw a comment down below and we’ll get a conversation going.
What separates a semi-automatic gun from a fully automatic machine gun?
Both of them reload automatically, hence the ‘auto’ label.
The main difference between a semi-automatic and a fully automatic machine gun is that on a semi-automatic, the user must pull the trigger each time he or she wishes the gun to fire.
But let’s dive a little deeper into the two types of weapons and uncover other similarities and differences, as well as uses for both semi-auto vs full-auto guns.
What it all comes down to is the ‘action’ on the gun. This refers to the operation of how a gun fires a bullet, ejects the cartridge, and reloads the next round.
Both of these types of guns handle the reloading part in an automated fashion. But the firing is where the difference is.
By definition, a machine gun refers to the fully automated version, which will continue to fire bullets until empty. Therefore, a semi-auto cannot technically be labeled as a machine gun.
Here is a great video on the differences between semi-auto and full-auto.
In the United States, full-auto weapons are typically only available to the military and law enforcement agencies.
The typical armed citizen cannot walk into a gun store and buy a full-auto machine gun.
The process of obtaining one requires extensive permitting and background checks, typically in line with the needs of the police or military.
Individual citizens can attempt to obtain the permitting necessary to purchase a fully automatic weapon, but there is certainly no guarantee of success. Semi-automatic guns can be purchased by citizens who pass the background check and process for obtaining one, and cooperate with any waiting periods or restrictions in the area where they live and are purchasing the gun.
This video explains how a semi-automatic gun works.
Commonly, semi-automatic guns are shotguns, pistols, and rifles.
These types of guns work well with the automated reload and have a trigger conducive to quick pull and fire. Some will be recoil operated.
This refers to guns that have a locked breach, and are auto-loading. The automatic loading cycle is powered by the recoil.
The force of the shot recoils, emptying the chamber of the used casing and allowing the new bullet to load.
Others are powered by gas instead of recoil. The gas yoked from the fired round drives a piston into the weapon’s barrel. This pushes out the used shell, making room for the new one, which is automatically loaded from either the internal or external magazine by pressure.
No matter which type of power a shooter has in their semi-auto gun, no cocking or additional effort is needed to load the new round.
Here is a video on how a full-auto AK works.
There has been much conversation back and forth about whether machine guns, fully automatic, have a viable role in society. If so, what is that role?
Outside of law enforcement and military, there isn’t much of an argument that can succeed at a legal level, at least not right now. But gun hobbyists and fanatics don’t need to get all up in a tiff about it. Semi-automatic guns are honestly pretty impressive these days.
What’s wrong with a little trigger finger exercise? As fast as you can pull, you can shoot round after round until the magazine is empty.
Plus, unless you’re in California or another spot that outlaws them, gun owners can employ a multi-burst trigger activator to make the shooting process even faster.
With these handy gadgets, recoil is a breeze and shooters notice a significant improvement in shooting speed without much effect on their accuracy – provided they’ve got the shoulder for increased pressure.
Plus, the skill of mastering a semi-auto is something that’s definitely worth bragging about if you can back it up at the range. Trigger masters command a great deal of respect in gun circles.
Many of today’s finest shooters use semi-automatic weapons with the speed and finesse of a machine gun – to the point that it takes a keen eye to tell the difference.
Semi-auto vs full-auto is going to be an ongoing conversation in gun circles.
Hopefully this article has given you a better understanding of the difference between the two, and of their important place in society. If you’ve enjoyed this article, please share across your social media channels.
Remember that next time someone at the range starts rambling about machine guns, they are probably full of it. You now can correct them on the fact that a semi-auto is not technically a machine gun. The more knowledge in the gun community, the better.
And i have write a post about best gun safe for the money, you should choose the best for your gun.
I’d love to get some fresh takes on people’s favorite semi-autos as well as machine guns, so feel free to drop a comment below with what you’re shooting. Also note what you hope to be shooting next time you get a nice bonus at work.
One of the more common issues of discussion among frequent shooters is that of red dot vs scope,
Many hunters wonder which one is better for what type of situation, and if there is ever a time when they should be partial to both.
Personally, I’m a big fan of modern technology when it comes to guns, so the red dot puts me in a sort of heaven.
But today we’ll look at the what red dot and scope are, and what are the differences between them.
So what is the red dot?
Simply put, a red dot is like an optical illusion. Inside a tube or other enclosure on top of the gun, a red dot will be projected onto a screen.
This dot, which is sometimes a line, reticle, or other red honing notation of some kind, appears to be at the same distance as the target. The goal is two-fold:
What about a scope?
Contrast this with a scope, which is purely meant to magnify the target and increase the line of sight on it by the shooter.
There is no red line or marking of any kind, it’s basically the same as looking through a telescope, magnifying glass, or other optical funnel.
Here is a great video on the subject:
There is a reason why red dot scopes have become so heavily used in the military and other high-pressure, intense situations. It is because in short range, rapid fire scenarios, the shooter can aim quicker, follow a moving target with more accuracy, and generally increase their odds of a hit.
The tube of light hits the concave glass lens. The light the shooter sees is the reflection of that light and for field situations, it really helps with accuracy and tracking.
I find that the red dots also help a lot with pinpointing an area on the target that I want to hit while the target is moving. Perhaps that’s because I can make the dot hit that spot for at least a brief second.
No matter the reason, I can’t get that perk with a scope or without using any magnification at all. I also like the ability to subtend either 2, 3, or 4 minutes at 100 years. I most often use the 2 minute option, but have found myself at 3 several times.
On the downside, red dots don’t help as much as a traditional scope with overall accuracy.
You’re also dealing with a battery that may cause issues. This isn’t going to be a problem for those shooters who are fanatical about maintenance and double checking that everything is ready to go before heading into the field.
But if you’re sloppy, you may be caught off guard with no dot when you need it most. Here is a video on using a red dot scope:
The biggest plus to using a scope instead of a red dot is that many of them have variable power settings, and can be adjusted much easier than the red dot devices.
Another plus is that the scope is more versatile for both close and long range shooting situations. The varied settings of the scope allow for easy adjustment to fit your specific circumstance.
The scope is, overall, better for accuracy and hit percentage.
On the negative side:
I seem to find it difficult to hit a target at the exact point I’m shooting for. While the scope brings the target into focus well, it does little to help shooters hit a precise point beyond making that point larger in their field of view.
Additionally, I find scopes to be harder to adjust my eyes to specifically because they don’t really do anything other than magnify and focus. I appreciate them holding zero, and am not trying to say I don’t find any value in magnified optic scopes. But for specific shooting in high-pressure situations, they fall behind.
Here is a video on how to sight your rifle scope.
Let’s go over a couple of scenarios here and decide whether the red dot or the scope is better.
Scenario 1: Short range white tail hunte.
Scenario 2: long-range hunt or hunt of target at higher elevation than the shooter
Now, obviously there is a lot of my personal experience and opinion in this article.
Long-time scope users will come forward saying that the long-distance competition should have gone to the scope. They are correct assuming that their comfort level with the scope is much higher than with the red dot. Other than that, I fail to see how the scope would win.
Overall, I like the red dot much better because of the parallax issue and short distance accuracy. I keep good track of my battery power and other small details, so I never have any problems there.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this. Go ahead and throw your comments in the section down below, and please share on social media. Let’s get a good conversation going!
There are so many AR scope mounts available that it can be confusing to know which one to choose.
In my fifty years or more of hunting, I’ve tried a number of them, and today we’ll be discussing five budget-friendly options for scope mounts.
If you need assistance with accuracy, finding and holding zero, and a general improvement in your shooting, this article is for you. Here are the five best AR scope mounts.
Burris 410341 AR PEPR 30-mm Scope Mount (Black) (Editor's Choice)
This is my review about 5 best ar scope mount on the market, it will help you find the best for hunting. Check out it:
I’ve used this scope on my Bushnell 3-9x40 for many years because it is the best AR scope mount on the market.
Before, I was having issues with dealing with wobbly scope mounts that actually hindered my line of sight instead of helped.
This scope is securely fastened on top of the gun and never shakes. I’ve hit targets from 180 yards or more many times and it’s a breeze.
I have heard tell of this scope mount cracking, but that is generally a result of improper securement.
If you know what you’re doing, you can use Loctite on the screws and shouldn’t have any issues.
When secured well, you’ll be able to hold zero with no effort and greatly improve accuracy both at the range and out in the field.
Tight securement and consistency are what makes this one of the best AR scope mounts.
Another solid option for a 30-mm rifle scope.
If you’ve had problems in the past with cracked scopes, this is a great solution because the aluminum alloy is strong enough to handle strong recoil.
The downside to this is that this scope is heavier than many of the more expensive ones. Even with a lot of pushback, this rifle scope holds zero securely as long as you use higher quality screws.
I don’t like the ones that come standard, and recommend upgrading to avoid them being stripped.
Versatility is the name of the game with this one, the best AR scope mount from Burris.
For any shooters struggling to find the right scope mount for a variety of angles, this one comes in three sizes (1 inch, 30 mm, and 34mm).
You can have the same scope mount on different size guns and always enter the field feeling comfortable in your ability to hold zero across multiple options.
I prefer the Picatinny top because that’s what I’ve been shooting with for many years, but my nephew is on board with the smooth mount and has no problems nailing targets at 150 yards or more.
There are two nuts keeping the mount on the rail and they aren’t going to strip on you.
While that’s a worry with many other low budget mounts, I haven’t heard any tale of that happening with the Burris.
To further the versatility, this scope gives users the ability to mount on a variety of models and sizes, up to 50 mm without too much pressure on the piece.
This scope is best for shooters who spend most of their time at the range instead of in the field because of its weight.
This one speaks to the heart of the true American. The biggest benefit I’ve noticed is the AD-RECON mounts are the best in the industry. Heavy recoil will never be a problem for anyone using this mount.
If you’re shooting with a 1-6x24 scope or something similar, the weight of this mount shouldn’t offset the benefits. This holds true when hiking into the field.
The one thing to do on the side is to get ahold of some Loctite and use it for the screws.
I haven’t seen any stripping issues but for security, it will ensure no issues when in a high-pressure situation. All repositioning can be done by hand if you don’t have a screwdriver or tools.
The floating ring setup is impactful for the heavy hunter and helps separate American Defenseman from other best AR scope mounts on the market. Overall, this is the second best option on this list
The two-piece AR scope mount set here is the best value.
If you struggle with recoil issues, these Accushot UTGs will help you hold the gun securely so that you’re firing doesn’t impact accuracy. I also really like their assistance with holding zero.
The flexibility offered by a multi-piece mounting setup with these as a part of it will help accuracy at the range or in the field.
These scope rings perform well as Picatinny/Weaver and any other setup you need high-impact, low budget scope rings to grow your game. Obtaining these scopes online makes them even more wallet friendly.
I set them up in about two minutes on my 20 gauge slug and did it all by hand. Those of you needing simple rings, here is your answer.
The CCOP is the one I have the most experience with. I turned to their scope mount to solve recoil issues I was having with the previous one.
Since the switch, I’ve had no issues whatsoever.
My first use of the Burris AR scope came about two years ago when I bought a new shotgun that the CCOP wouldn’t fit, at least not in a way that made me comfortable.
I’ve taken it on three hunting trips and love the sturdiness, ease of holding zero, and accuracy at 200 yards. To pick between the two, I encourage you to purchase the Burris 410341 as the best AR scope mount on the market.
If this article proves anything, it’s that you don’t have to spend big on AR scope mounts. These options are well-rounded, each with its pros and cons.
Ultimately, my field experience led me to the Burris and CCOP options that I’ve grown accustomed to. I’ve gotten both my son and brother on board as well.
I encourage you to do the same. If you enjoyed this review, please share on social media and add your thoughts in the comments below. If there is one that needs to be added to the list, let us know!
What is the best shotgun scope available on the entry-level market right now?
There are a number of them, and most of them essentially get the job done the same way.
It is important to identify whether the shotgun scope you are looking to buy is going to solve your personal problems, such as increasing the line of vision, improving accuracy, or making the transition from the range into the hunting field.
The best shotgun scope for you depends on three factors:
Let’s take a look at the best shotgun scope in those three categories: Shotgun Scope for the gear nerd needing top measurements/ for the experienced hunter/ and Shogun Scope for solving the problems of the everyday hunter
Nikon ProStaff Shotgun Hunter 2-7 x 32 Black Matte Riflescope(BDC 200) (Editor's Choice)
This is my review about 3 shotgun scope on the market, it will help you find the best for hunting. Check out it:
This rifle scope boasts a higher magnification rate (up to 7x) than the other scopes here, along with and decent eye relief (3.8 inches).
If you frequently have problems zeroing in on your targets, this is the best rifle scope for you because the combination of the eye relief and mag rate bring targets into focus from as far as 300 yards.
Pretty impressive slug accuracy, and honing in on the center of the target was a breeze
Additionally, this is a great rifle scope for shooters traditionally accustomed to range shooting but looking to step up their field game. Moving targets are brought into focus and remain there.
I really found that this scope helped me learn how to move my gun across the field of view without a quiver or shake. It really makes it easy to have confidence in your shots. I recommend pairing the Nikon ProStaff with a Mossberg or Remington.
For situational shooting, this scope will help with:
Hi low mounts. No problems with clearance or mounting, you’d think this scope was developed by the gun manufacturer
200 yard or higher moving targets. If you use the gun for long-range shots, this scope will be the best of the entry-level class for yo
Those needing a sniper version of a good, reasonable scope or the shotgun version. The Nikon ProStaff is seamlessly consistent across both platforms, perfect for those trying out a new way of shooting
The best shotgun scope for those already bringing a level of confidence to the table is this one.
The Bushnell Trophy falls behind the Nikon ProStaff in magnification up to 4x and eye relief (3.5 inches), but not far enough that a confident shooter won’t be able to hit their target. If you are looking for a scope that focuses extremely fast as the top priority, this is the best scope for you
Bushnell really focused on the windage issue with this scope.
Mounting and elevation are secure and consistent across different guns, as you’ll find that hi low mounts typical among entry-level scopes will do the job. Get 1 inch rings and a mounting rail.
If you hunt in foggy or otherwise non-optimal conditions, or at altitude or across widely varying different seasons, this scope will give you a consistent line of sight. It’s versatile. You’ll never find yourself searching for a wipe or needing to remount in a situation where the scope should have performed
During the golden hour (either morning or evening), the light transmission is fantastic. You’ll have the best vision of the season
It isn’t as versatile as the Nikon ProStaff. Experienced shooters will have to use their skills to make up for the reduced magnification
While the magnification (4x) is not a speck above standard, Simmons outdoes itself with the 4 inches of eye relief. Coupled with that is the Quick Target Acquisition, making this scope a great option for beginners and regular shooters.
The imagery is good for hunters of moving targets, especially deer, turkey, and others than tend to bounce as they trot. So this scope is perfect for deerhunting.
For newer shooters, the windage issue isn’t really a problem with the Simmons. It is the best shotgun scope for them because the elevation adjustment system isn’t going to budge, no matter the weather condition or season.
I like how easily it mounts onto my 870 remington shotgun. The one issue I have heard about with this scope is hard recoil. I recommend shooters to really fasten the scope securely and double check that everything is lined up right.
Most younger shooters that aren’t able to suck up the recoil as naturally may see problems if shooting many 3030s or similar rounds. But for less recoil, this scope will serve just fine
Perfect for short range hunting. You won’t find a better scope at 75 or fewer yards
Improves accuracy greatly, another reason why it’s best for beginners. This is the one scope on this list that really accentuates the ‘entry-level’ moniker
The best shotgun scopes on the market are all sufficient at basic daily hunting and range shooting.
Where they differ comes down to the slight intricacies of the manufacturer and how the scopes handle themselves once mounted.
You experienced shooters should go with the Bushnell Trophy Shotgun Scope, while I strongly recommend the Simmons scope for anyone who hasn’t used a scope before or is new to shooting. It is the most basic of the three
Overall, the best shotgun scope in this entry-level class is the Nikon ProStaff Shotgun Hunter. It’s versatility, high level of magnification, and ease of use make it a no contest for those not willing to break the bank on their shotgun scope.
Mount it securely and do a test run at the range before bringing it into field, and you will find a pleasant, replicable experience each time you hunt – no matter the location or time. If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can get more hunters to put thought into their scope selection.
If you are using a shotgun, Please consider buy the best gun safe for the money to storage it.
Feel free to leave a comment – I’d love to get a conversation going
Which pistol to carry for defense purposes is an important question. Over the years, I’ve switched between a number of different guns for carry purposes and to use at the range.
Two of them have stood out above the others as the most appropriate for general carry – the SP101 and the gp100 Ruger.
I spent about ten years with an SP101 type model after it came to market in 1989 before recently switching to the GP100.
Today, I’ll tell you what I liked and didn’t like about both and we’ll compare the SP101 vs gp100 Ruger. Let’s get started.
The SP101 maintains the feel and functionality of classic concealed carry guns. It’s small, in the featherweight class, and easy to draw.
The GP100 is actually a modernized version of what was known as the Security Six. Physically, the newer model is much cleaner and fires better. It is highly preferable to me in day-to-day situations. I keep urging my wife to get one too, because she is now jealous of mine.
In short, the GP100 is a better gun for concealed carry and personal protection. The gun itself is an evolution of previous hand-held revolvers, marking an improvement upon them, and it has been modified even since as it fits different caliber and barrel lengths. The gun is more versatile and can be better fitted to your personal preferences.
I find it more comfortable in concealed mode, in fact I hardly even notice that it is there. I love .357 Magnums, and the flow of this gun throughout the loading and shooting process is very smooth.
The SP101 is more of a heavy-duty type small revolver. Over the years, it’s been used by police departments as a quick-grab backup weapon, and is designed for situations where it will be used by a highly trained professional.
I used it quite a bit at the range to get a good feel, and I’ve got to say that I was able to feel comfortable with the GP100 much faster than the SP101.
They are both great guns. But let’s say that you are carrying a gun for the instance when a bad guy pops out of nowhere and you (as a common citizen, not a police officer) have to react quickly and depend on your gun to perform every time. The GP100 is easier to handle and easier to shoot.
Both of these handguns come in multiple versions, barrel lengths, and caliber, fit to taste.
What I really like about the GP100 is the shot capacity and variety of calibers. Almost all, with the exception of the GPF-840 and the 1757, are full shroud, which is a huge plus for me. I prefer one of the variations with adjustable sights, because I’m old school and like to try out many different options before settling on my emergency go-to.
The SP101 is a bit heavier than many other revolvers (not enough to cause a major disturbance, but if weight is your biggest factor, this is another reason to go with the GP 100). This gun does have a smooth double action, along with a bobbed hammer, two things I really like and that kept it at my waist for nearly ten years. It offers large, high-visibility sights, which I also loved. However, during rapid fire, I found I had a harder time tracking the sights than I have with the GP100.
As a review, let’s take a look at the points each gun has in its category here at the end of the comparison:
Both the GP100 and the SP101 are fine small size revolvers to keep by your side in concealed carry mode.
Both can get the job the done.
But what has really drawn me to switch from the SP101 to the GP100 is the ease of comfortability I felt when learning the gun that was new to me. It takes a lot to get an old timer like me to change his ways, but the GP100 is the best revolver I have ever shot. I’ll keep it by my side until I die.
If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media. I’d love to see how far we can push the word of the GP100. Feel free to leave comments below, let’s get a discussion going!. Oh one thing, if you need the gun safe for this ruger gun, you can take a look my post about best handgun safe for the money.
One of the more common questions asked by new shooters is this: what is the difference between rimfire vs. centerfire?
And, beyond that, why should I choose one over the other? Today we are going to dissect these two types of ammo and determine which one is better for your specific situation.
I personally prefer centerfire based on my shooting style, technique, and hobbies, but there are still small-cartridge situations where rimfire is better. Let’s take a look.
Rimfire and centerfire refer to the categories of primer ignition systems, basically, what gets the whole process of firing the bullet going.
The explosion caused by the lighting of the primer causes the gunpowder to react and project the bullet forward out of the barrel of the gun. Every single time a gun is fired, this is what happens, regardless of whether a rimfire or centerfire cartridge is being used.
With centerfire cartridges, the explosion is concentrated more centrally in the middle of the cartridge. This creates a more consistent firing of the bullet. Because of this increase in performance, the professionals in the police and military are preferring centerfire cartridges.
Rimfire cartridges see the explosion overtaking more of the cartridge as it is tripped at the rim. The pressure on the bullet isn’t as concentrated on the center of it, and I’ve heard tale of rimfire cartridges not firing with the power of their centerfire counterparts.
Centerfire cartridges locate the primer in the center of the cartridge case head. These are much more common these days as cartridge size preference trends towards larger sizes. You really won’t find anything other than centerfire cartridges in larger or even medium sizes these days.
The move towards centerfire cartridges is based largely on the fact that they are more reliable in heavy duty situations. Police, military, and serious hunters and shooters have pretty much switched entirely to centerfire cartridges based on their dependability, consistency, and reliability.
Because of this, and because of the fact that so many shooters want to emulate the pros, most shops will stock a wide variety of centerfire cartridges while only stocking a minimal amount of rimfire cartridges.
Rimfire cartridges are pretty much a thing of the past, except for certain gun models. A rimfire cartridge works like this: the firing pin ignites the primer by striking the cartridge’s rim, causing friction and igniting the blast.
Basically, the difference starts with the power issues that we’ve discussed above. Rimfire cartridges are cheaper, for sure, and have lower recoil than centerfire cartridges.
One of the biggest drawbacks of rimfire cartridges is how hard they are to find. The older guys that I grew up with have been buying all the stock they can for fear of it no longer being available anywhere that they shop. As a result of this, hardly any new shooters are using rimfire cartridges.
Centerfire cartridges have higher recoil and are more expensive. But, because they are so widely available and there is no fear of them all being bought out or discontinued, the market price will probably eventually drop significantly just based on supply and demand.
I highly urge you, even if you are a long-time shooter, to make the switch to centerfire cartridges. The long term sustainability is much better and you’ll find that you spend less money over time because of:
Rimfire cartridges are certainly not as prominent as they once were. Right now, 17 caliber and .22 caliber pistol and rifle cartridges can be found in rimfire variety, along with some shotgun cartridges that are small-bore.
You won’t find any game hunting cartridges using rimfire anymore. Beyond that, mostly just collectors’ items will fit rimfire cartridges. .22LR are the most frequently used rimfire cartridge fittings. You’ll also see them in WMR, Winchester Magnum, Hornady Mach 2, and Hornady Magnum. Not a ton of variety offered here!
For today’s pistol, rifle, and shotgun ammunition, most of what is commonly used will be centerfire. If you are looking for a specific rimfire cartridge, your best bet is going to be to shop online on a store’s website first before visiting in person just to make sure that they will stock it before you head out.
I hope you have gained a solid understanding of the differences between rimfire and centerfire cartridges.
Centerfire is the way of the future. Rimfire will likely continue on its slow and miserable decline.
What the high-impact shooters of the world prefer is what goes, and you’ll be better off siding with them. I started using centerfire cartridges years ago because I predicted this trend after spending years in the military serving my country.
If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can increase awareness of the differences between rimfire and centerfire cartridges and get more people switched over.
Feel free to share your comments in the section below and we’ll get a conversation going. Take care!
So you’re thinking about buying a rifle scope. You’ve decided that you need increased visibility when out in the field, making your gun that much more effective.
This is your guide all about rifle scopes, how to use them, how to measure them, and how to read the measurements.
I’ve been using rifle scopes for years, and have tried many low and high power scopes. These days, I prefer the lower power scopes whenever they are applicable. Let’s take a look at what rifle scopes can do for you.
Rifle scopes have completely changed the game for shooters. Low power scopes seem to be rising in popularity these days as hunters realize that having more power than they need in terms of eyesight isn’t always a good thing.
Sometimes, it’s best to just go with instincts instead of overdoing it with extras. I hope you have found this post helpful – if so, please share on social media and feel free to comment below. Ideas and experiences are the stepping stones of progression. The more people we get talking, the better our hunting skills will be!