“Slicing the pie” is one of the most basic tactics. It is extremely useful for clearing a room, hallway, or rounding a corner.
Essentially, this tactic is best used when approaching a chokepoint, and trying to move through to the other side.
A chokepoint is an area of concern in a potentially dangerous situation, and the best example is a doorway into a room.
There is only one way to enter a room: through the door.
If a shooter is inside the room, and wants to stop someone from entering the room, what’s the easiest way to do so? Simple, aim at the door and shoot anyone that walks in.
Without “slicing the pie” the most likely way to enter the room would be to waltz straight through the door.
If there was a potential shooter inside that room, you would be an extremely easy target.
Going through a chokepoint in a potentially hostile environment is extremely dangerous.
Slicing the pie allows you to be much safer as you enter the room, and if you are in a truly dangerous situation, it will allow you to engage the target before he or she can engage you.
So, ready to learn more about slicing the pie?
This tactic is named for a much easier reason than you are probably thinking. Think about when you are slicing a pie.
The pieces of pie fan out from the center of the pie, meaning that they start very narrow, and get wider as it approaches the crust of the pie.
To apply this to clearing a room or a hallway, think of the end of the doorframe or the end of the wall before it opens up into a hallway as the center of the pie.
From there, think about the slices of pie extending out from the center.
Basically, what you are going to do is smoothly and methodically clear where you are trying to go in sections.
Slowly approach the door, while walking alongside the wall. Your weapon should be shouldered and ready to go, in case there is a threat.
Once you get to the point along the wall where you can barely see into the room, you have identified your first “slice.” You will clear that one sliver of room, and then slowly inch forward.
Each time you inch forward, you will see more and more of the room. Another way to say it is that each inch forward reveals another slice of pie.
As you inch forward, clear all of these “slices” of the room, all the way from the door to as far as you can see into the room (hopefully to the back wall). Once You have made your way into the doorway, you have cleared all the “slices” of the room.
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You will take a very similar approach. However, rather than a doorframe, you will be inching around the corner of a wall and clearing down a hallway.
This tactic is very widely applicable. In any situation where there is some type of chokepoint with some cover, you could use this technique to slowly and safely clear the area beyond.
It is extremely useful for going around and between buildings in an urban setting.
It could be used for clearing through a window. It could be used for clearing any number of obstacles.
The basis of the tactic is extremely simple, and once you have mastered the basics, you will find that you will be able to apply this technique in many different areas.
Keep a foot or two between yourself and the wall. This will allow you to inch around the wall slower, without exposing too much of your body.
Take it slow. Your natural instinct will be to move through the motions very fast. However, going too fast is when you are most likely to miss things. Take your time, be safe, and be sure that the area you are visually clearing is actually clear.
Watch the barrel of your weapon. If you are attempting to try and take anyone in the room by surprise, be sure to keep your barrel out of the doorframe. As you are inching around and clearing the room, if your barrel is sticking into the doorway, it will be a dead giveaway that you are there.
Don’t be afraid to safely practice this technique. If you are worried that you may one day need to use this tactic, it certainly won’t hurt to take a few practice runs. Make sure your weapon is clear and no one is in the room, but maybe try clearing into your bedroom once or twice, to give you an idea what the technique should feel like.
“Slicing the pie” is an extremely basic tactic. However, in a situation in which you might need it, it is an absolutely vital skill to have.
If you ever find yourself having to enter a potentially dangerous room, you will be glad that you are familiar with this technique.
Knowing this could very well be the difference between life and death in an extremely dangerous situation. Remember, don’t move too fast!
Check out this YouTube video for a demonstration on how to use this technique!
When it comes to bagging a deer, having a sharp broadhead is just as important as mastering the art of long range archery. Without a good blood trail, locating your kill or wounded deer can prove to be quite difficult. A sharp broadhead will puncture the flesh and skin more directly and completely then a dull one, causing more blood and faster bleed out. It’s very similar to any type of sharp knife – the sharper the blade, the harder the bleeding. Here are the best practices for how to sharpen a broadhead.
A fact that many new archers don’t realize is that most broadheads require at least a small bit of sharpening to reach optimum performance. If you’ve bought the kind that are manufactured specifically to be incredibly sharp and not need sharpening, you’re off the hook for now.
I’d venture to say that a vast majority of broadheads will need at least a quick tune up before being ready to hit the field.
I recommend using broadhead arrows when hunting because they penetrate much better than other arrow types, and are also more accurate. Now that we’ve identified the broadhead type, let’s make sure that all necessary tools are on-hand:
I keep a dedicated sharpener at home, as I don’t really like to do it on the fly or use equipment that isn’t meant for the task. The first step, before any sharpening takes place, is to install the broadhead onto the arrow to make sure it fits properly. Once you’ve got the head onto the arrow, we’re ready to use the sharpener. This tool allows users to hold the arrow by the end near the broadhead. You’ll want to get a secure grip on it using both hands.
If you aren’t keen on spening some cash on a nice sharpener, a whetstone will do the trick. Just file the headstone as you would anything else on the whetstone. 3 pronged broadheads are tough to do on a surface like this, but other than that you shouldn’t have any problems.
I don’t recommend doing this with top-notch broadheads, for risk of damaging them and having to spend a bunch of money replacing them. But if you’re out in the field or on a camping trip, having a portable way to sharpen the heads is typically better than nothing.
A bastard file is my favorite of these. Approach it like you’re using a dedicated sharpener, with the broadhead attached to the arrow, and file like you would anything else on there. Again, pretty tough with three pronged heads, but you get the gist. You can take the bastard file anywhere: keep in your pocket or in your satchel.
Broadheads can be sharpened in a number of ways. Ever since I was a kid, I’ve been taking the extra time to keep the heads sharp and clean. Accuracy is your best friend when out in the field, and leaving a solid trail of blood to track down the animal is going to make the entire process easier. I hope you’ve enjoyed this article on how to sharpen a broadhead. Please share on social media so that your friends and family can learn the benefits, and feel free to leave a comment. I’d love to get a discussion going.
One of the most common questions in the world of camping and sportsmanship is how to start a fire with sticks. This is truly a professional maneuver, as just about any type of miscalculation or stray from the advices process make this task nearly impossible to do. There are three basic formulas, which we’ll get into here. They all take time – it took me most of an entire summer of trying before I even got one fire out of any of these methods. But with time, comes reward. Keep that in mind.
For this approach, make sure you have a large quantity of tinder, as the friction depends on it to keep the ember alive and eventually turn it into a flame. Get some grass, pieces of shrubbery, cattails, small bits of wood, anything that burns easily. Pile them all together into a nice mass of burnable material. You’ll need what’s called a spindle, basically a thin, round, but sturdy piece of wood, and a base board as well. Here we go:
With this method, you’re going to start with the same expansive pile of tinder. Employ the same techniques we discussed in the last section. The bow drill method is a little more advanced and requires better ‘on-the-fly’ wood working skills, but also has a slightly higher success rate.
This video walks you through the steps.
This is the most basic way to start a fire with sticks, but also the most complicated. The fire plow method is essentially just rubbing to sticks together until you get an ember. Let’s outline the best approach for using this method (with the obvious hope that it won’t end up being a last ditch effort!)
“How to start a fire with sticks” is now something you (hopefully) won’t have to stress about too much anymore. All three of these techniques definitely require patience, an immense amount of practice, and repetition to master. I recommend working on them in your yard or on a car camping trip several times. They you’ll have the techniques down before you find yourself stranded in the wilderness.
Gather a bunch of loose wood and burn-ables, and keep them on-hand for practice. That way, you’ll also get some experience in what works best for the tinder and what should be kept out. I also recommend practicing your blowing techniques quite a bit, even if its just on your wood-burning fireplace in the living room.
If you become a master at any of these techniques, you should consider teaching lessons to everyone you know – you may end up saving their life!
Starting a fire with sticks is one life skill that definitely is good to master before you have to put it to the test. If you have any tips on how these methods have worked for you, please share in the comments so that others can learn them and employ them in their fire starting. I’ve been doing this for twenty years and just recently feel like I’ve gotten pretty good at it. Sadly, most people don’t know how to start a fire with sticks, so please share this on social media so that we can grow awareness. Good luck!
One of the more common questions that new hunters have is ‘what is the safe way to unload a muzzleloader?’ When it comes to muzzleloaders, conventional firearm wisdom is somewhat bullet and propellant charge are loaded in through the muzzle, or open front end, of the gun. I’ve owned one since my 21st birthday, when my grandpa gifted me the one that belonged to his dad. He also gave me a good lecture on unloading a muzzleloader, which I’m going to pass along to you today.
These firearms are immensely popular amongst fans of old westerns, war flicks, and historical battles. The one I got from my grandpa is one of these, in fact it was built in the 1800s. Muzzleloaders are often used in reenactments and theatrical settings, depicting the guns of old. Despite their historical value, muzzleloaders can be incredibly difficult to unload. If you have never used one before, watch some old flicks of them in action and take notes on the loading and unloading processes that the shooters follow.
Muzzleloaders are more challenging to use than traditional rifles and guns. It is important to only use black powder with these weapons, anything else can be unsafe. These guns are loud, so always wear protection. Muzzleloaders need to be cleaned after every time they are shot. If attempting to clean a loaded weapon, there’s a great chance that you’ll severely injure yourself or cause structural damage.
These days, most muzzleloader enthusiasts are firing modern in-line muzzleloaders. Unloading this type of firearm is significantly more safe and less time consuming than older muzzleloaders. It doesn’t take any special equipment or training, other than what you can learn quickly from an experienced shooter.
Perhaps the best way to unload a traditional (read: older) muzzleloader is with this method. Take your ready to use discharger and use one of the following methods:
This is the most entertaining way to unload a muzzleloader. Shoot the gun into a safe backstop that won’t deflect the bullet back at you or at someone (or something) else. If at a range, this is easily done by simply firing the weapon in the appropriate area. Shoot the muzzleloader into a thick, cushioned setup that is prepared to handle bullets.
If you happen to be out in the wilderness, be very careful and mind these steps:
There you have it, the three best practices for how to unload a muzzleloader. As with any gun situation, be careful and follow instructions. I always recommend either reading the manual on your gun, or doing some online browsing to find out as much information as you can about your specific weapon. This is especially true for older guns – they aren’t always as consistent as newer streamlined versions, and each individual one may have its own quirks and funky movements.
When it’s time to store the muzzleloader, make sure the ramrod is in the barrel. Always lean the gun up against a solid and clean rest. You’ll want to make sure that no debris or dirt gets into the barrel, because this can prevent the gun from firing the next time around.
This about does it. I always keep my muzzleloader on its perch in my garage, lifted off the ground so no dirt from the floor gets in there. I’m interested in how easily you were able to unload a muzzleloader the first time- feel free to leave a comment below. And if you have any additional storage tips, I’d love to hear those as well. If this article was helpful to you, please share on Facebook and Twitter, as anything we can do to improve hunter safety is better for everyone. Thanks, and happy unloading!
When someone asks if you know how to operate a gun, a quick and resounding “Yes!” is certain to burst from your lips.
But do you quickly fall into a crisis of self-confidence afterwards?
If so, it may be because you aren’t confident in your ability to quickly and correctly reload ammo. I first learned from my uncle, and not until my fourth or fifth trip to the range.
Before that, I fumbled around like an amateur because I was afraid to ask how to reload ammo.
Well, today my friend, we’re going to talk about the proper steps to get er’ done.
There aren’t many supplies, but each one of them is extremely important. Here they are:
Reloading ammo is a great way to save some money on your shooting excursions and keep those empty casings from going to waste.
If any of the casings have been stepped on, ran over, or are otherwise disfigured, you’re probably wasting time trying to reload them because the measurements will be off for the gunpowder and bullet placement. Better to just throw those to the wolves. Speaking of casings:
Now you’re all set and ready to start reloading. Before you begin, double check that everything is in its place and looks ready. Are all of the casings clean and shiny? Loaded correctly? Let’s do this!
You have to have the best reloading scale to reloading ammo.
This is the most important part, obviously. Make sure that you are using the right powder, otherwise this entire process is going to backfire on you and all of your time will be wasted. The correct weight and variety of powder is essential. Focus intently, and begin:
That’s about it. After you’ve reloaded your casings, put them into ammo cases and they’re good to go for your next trip to the range!
If you’re using shotgun shells, check the empties for reusable hulls prior to reloading – this can save you some extra time and money. Also, you’ll be using different supplies such as a shell plate, which is used to hold the shell while you add primer and gun powder. As always, be very careful when operating gun materials, as they can be very dangerous.
That about sums it up. I tend to reload ammo a couple of days before heading to the range, that way if there are any problems or I don’t have enough I’ve got plenty of time to hit the shop. If anything doesn’t seem right during the reloading process, discard that casing. Always better to be safe than sorry when it comes to guns. . Have any tricks of the trade you’d like to add?
Leave a comment here and we’ll shoot back and forth. If you found this guide helpful, please share on your social channels – knowledge is power!
Hunting blinds are a common and effective way that a hunter can shield himself from the animal he is after and minimize chances of being detected.
Often, a deer hunter will use climbing equipment to perch himself in a tree and use that as cover, but there are several grounded blinds available for purchase that are easy to pack in, set up, and move around while in the field. Some require the hunter to lie down while others allow for sitting and kneeling/standing.
I have been using the Harter’s Ground Blind for several years now with great success. Here, we’ll discuss different types of blinds with examples for you to check out before making a purchase.
While they are more comfortable and can be modified to your specific setup and preferences, it’s quite an investment. Some require the purchase of an elevated hunting tower to serve as the base of the blind pod. If you are looking into buying a permanent hunting blind for your property.
These are often not much more than a skirt to go around a hunting chair or platform already built into the tree. The benefit of these hunting blinds is that they provide an elevated viewing and shooting area. You will need additional gear to climb the tree and to set up a seating area. Be sure you have fastened the skirt on securely before setting up shop, especially if it’s windy outside.
Duck hunting blinds are similar to deer hunting blinds but designed for waterside landscapes. Often they are designed to look like the tall reeds and plant life that waterfowl thrive in, and feature wider shooting holes that often run the length of the tent’s long side. Around fifteen pounds in weight, give or take, duck hunting blinds are quick to set up and break down.
However, you can build your own duck blind by building a pit deep into the ground using boxes that are built to resemble a 30-gallon oil drum that has been shaped into the landscape .Be sure to put a wooden cover on it so that it won’t fill up with rain when not in use. Again, this is only effective if you are always hunting the same spot.
Personally, I refuse to hunt without a blind, mostly because in addition to camouflage they also provide shelter. You can bring a cooler of beer, food, and other necessities for the hunt and keep it hidden away, and if it rains or is very windy you’ll have protection from the elements.
I don’t own land, so my hunting is done on public land where I have to truck in my blind each time, so I try to keep the process simple by using a tent-like blind with a hunting chair and always bring a blanket. While I’ve always been partial to Harter’s, Ameristep makes many quality products that are affordable and easy to set up.
Have ideas or product recommendations? Share here in the comments and let’s get a discussion going, and don’t forget to blast this article out on social media if you’ve enjoyed it.