If you have looked up information about guns and their durability, then you might have heard of a product called cerakote.
It is a coating that goes on the gun to help protect the metal and moving parts. On top of this it also comes in a variety of colors, so you can have a more custom feel for your firearm that gives it a look that is personal to you. Read on to learn more in-depth information on what Cerakote is and its benefits.
For many years their was only a few ways to protect your gun from the elements. Guns have always been made of metal and some times the steel was blued. This was a heating process to help protect it from pitting and corrosion. Since guns are used outside a lot, they are easily exposed to the weather. Things such as water could easily cause the metal to rust which could lead to the gun not functioning correctly.
On older guns parts of them, such as the handle or butt, were also made of wood. Wood also would break down over time and wear. As time when on people started using pearl grips and things to help protect the parts of the gun that were exposed to wear and the weather more often. Today there is a new product that can protect your gun.
This new product to help your gun last as long as possible is Cerakote. It is a ceramic type material with a polymer mixed into it to help it attach to all kinds of material. Now that guns have a lot more moving parts, it is even more important to keep your gun protected from the elements.
Cerakote is applied in a very skilled way because a small amount of thickness change in a gun can cause it to not function right. The first thing is the gun is completely disassembled, not just field-stripped. It is then degreased and blasted with garnet sand to remove any oils. After the coating is put on in a smooth and even way using an HVLP spray gun. Lastly the metal parts are cured at 250 degrees and the plastic and polymer parts are cured at 150-180 degrees.
So now that you know what Cerakote is and how it is applied, what are the benefits to it? Well like has been mentioned guns have a lot of moving parts now a days, and any wear on these parts can cause the gun to stop functioning correctly. A lot of things can cause wear to a gun from normal use to mishandling.
Normal wear occurs because you have oils on your hands that can eat into the metal parts over time. Also, the slide part of the gun is moving back and forth which causes friction. If your gun does not have a slide but is instead a hammer, the hammer hitting still causes wear. The bullet also coming out of the chamber causes wear over time to the inside of the barrel. Also, the small explosion on the inside each time to propel the bullet out causes wear.
Some of these wear causing things can be slowed down with proper care. If you clean your gun and oil it regularly, then it reduces the effects of the friction. Also, some of the smaller parts can be replaced easily and this will help your gun last longer, but some mishandling things or accidents can't be prevented or protected against in other ways.
Carrying the gun can lead to it getting scratches and things just from it bumping into things. These cosmetic issues don't really affect the function, but if you are spending a lot on a gun you probably want it to stay looking good for as long as possible as well. Also, a drop could cause cosmetic damage and functioning damage, but if you have a coating on the gun these damages can be reduced.
Cerakote puts a layer on the outside of the gun that is hard and protective. The ceramic in the Cerakote keeps the gun from getting scratched if it bumps into different things or gets dropped. The thin layer also protects the moving parts from wear. This keeps the gun in the proper specifications for longer so you don't have to replace parts and it keeps functioning correctly. Lastly it protects the gun from the elements, such as water, so the metal does not rust or pit.
The other benefits are that Cerakota comes in over a hundred colors. This means you can get your gun to look however you want. You can even have different parts of the gun be different colors, so the possibilities are endless. Some might think that customizing the color is just for aesthetics, but doesn't add any real benefits. While this is mostly true, it isn't completely true. If you are wanting to hide your gun, then you can get it in a color that is more easily concealed. That is one reason why getting a custom color can add more benefits than just making you happy.
So you still may be wondering should you do it to your firearm.
My answer would be yes.
It is an added cost, but it will keep your gun functioning correctly for a lot longer. The added protection for your gun and then the fact you can make your gun your own, out weights any cost. The technique used now makes it so getting Cerakote on your gun will not do any harm to it.
You should have the best handgun safe to protect your Cerakote pistol.
Cerakote adds a lot of benefits to your gun at no risk besides the cost of having it down. While there are a few other options on the market, Cerakote is the tested method that a lot of people love. If you are looking for a way to protect your firearm, or to make the gun your own, then Cerakote is a great option for you.
If you are building an AR-15 or changing out some parts on one you already have, I’m sure you’ve run into this dilemma before. Is a carbine or mid length gas system better for my AR?
In this article, we will go over some of the key facts of the gas system, and make some very simple recommendations about which gas system is better for you.
The gas system of an AR-15 is what allows the weapon to cycle. Once you fire the weapon, gas is generated by the chemical reactions of the propellant of the cartridge. This gas pushes the projectile forward, but also work to cycle the bolt.
Related: If you are using ar15, i highly recommend the best ar 15 scope for the money, it is useful.
It is actually pretty simple how this is accomplished. The gas system has a small hole to vent gasses that is near the front sight post of the weapon. The vent hole is connected to a gas tube, that goes back into the receiver.
Once the bullet passes the vent hole, the gas will enter this hole and flow through the gas tube until the bullet exits the barrel. Once the gas moves back into the receiver, it provides the power for the bolt carrier group to chamber the next round.
However, after the bullet exits the barrel, the gas won’t all vent through the small vent hole anymore. Most of it will vent through the end of the barrel.
As you can imagine, this all happens pretty fast.
Carbine length gas systems are shorter than mid length gas systems. What this means is that the vent hole is closer to the receiver on a carbine length gas system. In turn, that means that the vent hole is further from the end of the barrel.
The length of the gas system affects the cycling of the weapon. If the bullet is past the vent hole but in the barrel for a longer amount of time, more gas will enter the vent hole. So, if the vent hole is closer to the barrel, less gas will enter the gas tube.
In a carbine length gas system, there is a greater distance between the end of the barrel and the vent hole. This means that more gas will enter the gas tube when compared to a mid length gas system.
On a standard 16 inch or an 18 inch barrel, we recommend a mid length gas system.
The reason for this is that a carbine length gas system will allow more gas to enter the tube, which will increase recoil, and will cause additional wear on the internals of your weapon.
On a 14.5 inch or shorter barrel, we recommend a carbine length gas system. With this shorter barrel, there is less space between the vent hole and the end of the barrel, so the correct amount of gas will enter the gas tube.
If you are using a 20 inch barrel, a rifle length gas system should be used.
When you are building an AR-15, one of the most important aspects of the build is the barrel.
Trying to decide which one is right for you? Look no further. In this article, we will go over our top five choices for AR-15 barrels. We will also talk about the different types of barrels, and what each should be used for.
Obviously, the most feature of any barrel is the accuracy.
If your rifle doesn’t shoot accurately, what point does it serve?
High quality barrels can go a long way in increasing the accuracy of the rifle.
Other features to keep in mind are the durability and the size. Certain metals will be more durable than others due to their chemical composition. A more durable barrel will last longer on your AR-15 build.
Specifically, the material the barrel is made out of can greatly increase the weapon’s accuracy.
If you don't have time, you can quickly check here:
There are two main barrel compositions:
Chromoly steel is an alloy. Barrels made from this material are the most inexpensive and are fairly accurate, but will not last as long.
Stainless steel barrels are more accurate by a comfortable margin. They will also last a little longer, because they are more resistant to corrosion. However, they are slightly more expensive and are heavier.
From there, some barrels are given either a chrome lining or nitride treatment.
Chrome lined barrels will last longer, but will decrease the accuracy.
The chrome lining will preserve the barrel and prevent corrosion even further. However, as the lining wears off, the accuracy of the barrel will be negatively affected. Nitride treated barrels will also last for a long time, but without the decrease in accuracy.
As far as the size is concerned, keep in mind the barrel length requirements in the United States (assuming that is where you are purchasing from).
If your barrel is shorter than 16 inches, your rifle will be considered a short barreled rifle, commonly referred to as an SBR. These weapons are covered under the National Firearms Act, and will require a tax stamp from the ATF. However, for our list, we will focus on 16 inch barrels.
If you are looking to do competitive shooting that requires extreme accuracy, stainless steel will be the best barrel for you.
The increased accuracy will be the most important for this type of shooting. Avoid chrome lining for competitive shooting, as the accuracy will degrade over time.
For hunting, accuracy is less important.
Especially if you will be hunting in a humid area or in the rain, resistance to corrosion is going to be crucial for this type of shooting.
The most important aspect of the barrel for this type shooting will be to ensure that the barrel is treated somehow, either with a chrome lining or a nitride treatment.
Both chromoly steel and stainless steel are resistant to the elements, so the treatment becomes the most important part for a hunting rifle. A hunter should have best ar15 bipod to hold your ar.
If you are just a casual shooter, it is dependent on how much you shoot.
If you shoot thousands of rounds per year, you probably are going to want a chrome lined barrel. It will last longer for you.
If you don’t shoot that much and clean your rifle adequately, any barrel choice will work for you. In this situation, we would recommend a stainless steel barrel due to the increased accuracy.
First on our list of best AR-15 barrels is this 16 inch cold hammer forged barrel that is made of chrome moly vanadium.
The fact that the barrel is cold hammer forged creates an excellent barrel. It has a 1:7 twist rate, weighs 1.75 pounds, and has a chrome liner on the inside of the barrel.
The pros of this barrel are the durability and reliability. These features come mostly from the chrome lining and the phosphate exterior finish. Despite the fact that this is a chromoly barrel, the chrome lining will increase the durability. The reliability is backed by Daniel Defense’s warranty to protect against any material defects.
The cons of this barrel are the price and accuracy. This is the most expensive barrel on the list. While this is the most accurate chromoly barrel, stainless steel barrels will still be more accurate.
Next up is this lightweight stainless steel barrel from Modern Armory. This barrel has a 1:7 twist rate and weighs 1.25 pounds. Since it is stainless steel, this is the best AR-15 barrel for accuracy shooting.
The pros of this barrel are the light weight, accuracy, feed ramps, and the lifetime guarantee. The fact that this barrel is so lightweight gives you the pros of a stainless steel barrel without the primary con. The accuracy of this barrel is unquestioned; Modern Armory guarantees 1 MOA accuracy at 100 yards when it is used properly. Another great feature is the feed ramp, which will help to ensure a round is smoothly chambered each time. The barrel is also available at an excellent price.
As far as cons, the gas block and gas tube aren’t included in the base price, but are still relatively inexpensive.
Next up is another 16 inch chromoly steel barrel. The barrel has a nitride finish for increased strength and durability. This barrel weighs 2 pounds and has a 1:8 twist rate.
The pros of this barrel are the durability, feed ramp, and price. Due to the nitride finish, this is an extremely durable barrel, and the accuracy will not be as negatively affected. Bear Creek Arsenal expects sub 1 MOA accuracy from this barrel. It is also available at an excellent price.
The cons of this barrel are the weight. As you can see, this is a heavier barrel, so that is something to keep in mind. Another potential con of this barrel is the overall quality. The previous chromoly barrel was cold hammer forged, which increases the quality. However, Bear Creek Arsenal barrels are individually inspected to guarantee their quality.
This 16 inch chromoly steel barrel weighs 1.5 pounds and has a 1:8 twist rate. The barrel has a parkerized finish, similar to what the military M4 barrels have. It is the most affordable on our list, and is the best AR-15 barrel for the basic build.
The pros of this barrel are the price and weight. Don’t let the price fool you, Anderson Manufacturing is well known for their quality, and this barrel is no different. However, this price is available at an extremely affordable price. The weight of this barrel is one of the lowest as well, so it would work well for a lightweight build.
The cons of this barrel are the durability. Due to the fact that there is no chrome lining or nitride treatment, this barrel will not be as durable as some of the others.
This barrel from Rock River Arms is a chromoly steel barrel with a chrome lining. The twist rate is 1:9, and the weight is over 2 pounds, although that weight does include a bayonet lug, barrel nut, handguard cap, and the front sight post. Without those parts, this barrel would be close in weight to most of the others on the list.
The pros of this weapon are the durability. Due to the fact that the bore and chamber are chrome lined, this rifle will last thousands and thousands of rounds of ammunition.
The cons of this barrel are the price and accuracy. This is among the most expensive barrels on our list. As previously talked about, accuracy is negatively affected when a barrel is chrome lined.
As you can see, there are plenty of different features and factors to consider when looking into buying a barrel for an AR-15 build.
When looking to purchase, keep in mind the accuracy you require, how much you plan to shoot, and how much you would like to spend.
Also keep in mind any local laws about minimum barrel lengths.
While it is by no means an all-encompassing list, we hope that our list of best AR-15 barrels has at least pointed you in the right direction.
Most modern firearms are treated with some type of exterior coating above the metal to reduce the chance of the metal underneath rusting.
However, this is not to say that it is impossible for a modern firearm to rust. Rusting is most common in older firearms. Looking to fix up one of grandpa’s old guns? Wondering how to get the rust off?
Look no further. We will go over the best way to take rust off a firearm, and some things to avoid doing.
It is worth noting that this will only help in removing surface rust off a firearm. If your gun has fully rusted through, it is going to take significantly more work than what we are recommending here.
Rust forms when iron reacts with oxygen.
This process is referred to as oxidization. The process is generally really slow, but can be significantly sped up when the metal is introduced to salt or water.
This is the reason that one day in the rain can cause surface rust to form on a firearm.
Removing rust is not a hard process.
You will have to essentially scrape it off, using a metal that isn’t as hard as the metal of the firearm.
You can use a harder metal, but it will ruin the finish of the firearm.
For this reason, your best bet to remove the rust off the firearm is going to be copper products. To successfully remove the surface rust, you’re going to want:
Removing the rust is pretty easy. You just need to scratch it off using the copper products already mentioned.
It really is that simple. There is not an easier way to do it safely. It’s just going to take some elbow grease to get the rust off.
There are quite a few rust removal products available on the market.
While these may work for other metals, I would strongly recommend against using these chemicals on a firearm.
Since you don’t know what the surface of the firearm was treated with and what else might have been added to the metal, you have no idea how the chemicals will react with the metal of the firearm.
The result could inadvertently ruin your weapon. I have heard of some people using Evapo-Rust as a worst-case scenario rust remover, but would still recommend against that, if at all avoidable.
You should store gun with best gun safe and dehumidifier, it will help your gun cleaner.
That’s it. It really is that simple to remove the rust off of a firearm.
Unless it is completely rusted through, using some copper wool, a copper brush, and some good old-fashioned elbow grease will take care of the surface rust on a firearm.
There are some commercially available rust removal chemicals, but I would strongly recommend against using these.
Despite the fact that a striker and a hammer serve the same purpose, they are actually a little bit different.
Ever wondered when a striker fired weapon may be better than a hammer fired weapon?
In this article, we will go over the differences between the two and a comparison about when each firing mechanism is better to have.
For starters, striker fired and hammer fired refer to how the firearm actually fires a bullet.
A hammer fired weapon, as the name may imply, has a hammer.
A perfect example is a revolver and any 1911 semiautomatic pistol.
When you rack the slide of a hammer fired weapon, it cocks the hammer back.
When you pull the trigger, the hammer will fall, which strikes the firing pin. The firing pin then springs forward and punches the primer of the cartridge, which then initiates the propellant that sends the bullet down range.
However, one thing to keep in mind is that not all hammer fired weapons have external hammers. There are some weapons that have internal hammers that you will not be able to see.
Striker fired weapons are fired by an internal striker.
Think about any Glock firearm. These all work with an internal striker.
When you rack the slide of a striker fired weapon, the internal striker is cocked. When you pull the trigger, that internal striker is what rides forward to punch the primer. Most striker fired weapons can only be decocked by pulling the trigger.
One common thing that you hear is that hammer fired weapons are safer.
People say that because of the fact that you are able to decock the hammer, you are unlikely to accidentally discharge the weapon. Once you rack the slide and a round is chambered, you are able to decock the hammer, if you are not ready to shoot yet.
In a striker fired weapon or a weapon with an internal hammer, you are NOT able to decock the hammer or striker.
Usually, the only way to decock the hammer is to fire the weapon, although you can obviously pull the slide back and take the round of the chamber.
My opinion is that both firearms are definitely safe in the right hands, but the external hammer does add an additional degree of safety.
Another reason that I think hammer fired weapons with an external hammer are slightly safer, is that you can actually see the position of the hammer, so you will know exactly what position the firearm is in.
In my opinion, hammer fired weapons with an external hammer are excellent for new shooters.
Being able to physically see the position of the hammer, and what pulling the trigger does to the hammer is a tremendous advantage to someone new to firearms. However, this is just my personal opinion. Safe handling of any firearm will make it easy for a new shooter to learn and shoot.
Striker fired weapons are more commonly used as concealed carry weapons.
The reason for this is that the striker fired weapons don’t have a hammer that can catch on the user’s holster or pocket. Since everything is internal, it makes for a sleeker weapon with no snags or catches.
For home defense purposes, I also prefer striker fired weapons. The reason for this is that I like the point and shoot use. In a high stress situation, there is nothing to worry about other than aiming and pulling the trigger.
For hunting and general shooting purposes, either type of weapon will work, and I don’t really have a preference. The important thing is to ensure that you are using the weapon safely, and are familiar with how it functions.
Related: Best shooting sticks for hunting is good accessories for hunter. You should have one.
Overall, both striker fired and hammer fired weapons systems are excellent options.
The primary difference is how the firearms is actually fired. In a striker fired weapon, an internal striker is cocked back and fired when you pull the trigger. In a hammer fired weapon, there is a physical hammer that does the same.
While both weapons have their pros and cons, they are both excellent choices.
Striker fired weapons generally are better in defense situations, but hammer fired weapons will also perform admirably.
New shooters may learn better from hammer fired weapons, and some old school shooters will prefer hammer fired weapons.
It comes down to personal preference, and whatever you can comfortably and safely use.
Picking out the right scope rings can seem stressful, and is often an overlooked part of pairing your rifle with a scope.
If you don’t make the right selection, your rifle will NOT be as accurate, or even worse, your scope won’t fit at all.
Wondering how to pick scope rings for your rifle?
We will go over what measurements you will need to pick your scope rings.
Scope height refers to the distance from the center of the scope to the outside of the tube at the thickest point.
To find this, you will have to measure your objective lens diameter in millimeters. The objective lens is the biggest lens, and is the closest to what you are aiming at. In other words, it should be opposite from the lens you are looking through.
Once you have this objective lens diameter, add 2-4 millimeters to account for the tube of the scope. Then, divide that number by 2
Alternatively, you can simply measure the entirety of the scope and tube at the objective lens, and divide that number by 2.
Once you have the scope height, you have the height at which the centerline of the scope must sit above the rail.
To choose the best rings, you should choose the smallest ring and base measurement that is also above the calculated scope height.
However, different manufacturers measure ring heights differently.
The first way is to measure from the base of the rings to the center of the rings.
If the manufacturer uses this ring height measurement, all you have to do is add the base height to the ring height, and ensure it is the smallest number that is higher than your scope height.
The next way is to measure from the base of the ring to the inner ring edge. If the manufacturer does this, add 12.7 millimeters for a 1 inch tube or 15 millimeters for a 30 millimeter tube to the combined ring and base height.
Once you’ve added in the extra number, make sure that your selected ring is minimally higher than your scope height. If you plan to buy a sights for your ar, i highly recommend you should read best scope for ar10 to have good choice.
Overall, these measurements can be confusing for someone new to scopes or firearms.
There are plenty of calculators available online, as well as tables that have already done the calculations for you.
However, this article was simply to give you an idea where these measurements come from you, and help you in picking the correct scope rings for your scope and rifle combination.
Choosing the correct rings for your scope and rifle is of utmost importance. If your scope sits too high, you will be inaccurate. If your scope sits too low, it may not even fit your rifle. Understanding these measurements is extremely important for someone trying to fit their rifle with a scope.
Ever wondered whether a red dot sight vs a reflex sight will be better for your rifle?
For starters, most people are confused about the difference between a red dot sight and a reflex sight. But what is the truth?
“Red dot sight” IS NOT a specific type of sight.
It is actually a general term that is used to describe any kind of weapon optic that uses a red dot as an aiming point. In place of red dots, some sights have green dots or similar electronic images, such as a crosshair, as an aiming point.
There are three different types of “red dot sights”:
Each of which is slightly different. As you can see, a reflex sight is actually a type of red dot sight. The two are somewhat interchangeable. When the average person thinks of a “red dot sight” they are commonly thinking of an exposed reflex sight, which we will talk about later.
In this article, we will go over some key similarities and differences between the different styles of sights.
By the end of this article, you will have a better understanding of various weapons sights. So now, we're going to find each type of red dot sight. Related that, if you are planning buy a red dot, read my article about best red dot sights for AR 15, you will find the good one for your AR
A prism sight is a short, tube-style optic.
While traditional rifle optics use a series of lenses, prism sights use a prism to focus the image you see down the scope.
As a result, a prism scope is much smaller than the traditional rifle scope.
The pros of a prism scope are that they are commonly available with a small magnification and they allow for either etched or illuminated reticles.
The biggest downfall is the smaller eye relief, which means that your eye has to be closer to the optic to pick up a proper sight picture.
Prism scopes are somewhat more expensive than reflex sights, but the prices have been on the decline.
Prism sights are ideal for the average target shooter or distance shooter. When using a prism sight, it is harder to reacquire the target due to the eye relief. For someone who is trying to shoot targets at extended distance, the magnification and precision of a prism sight will be perfect.
Reflex sights use a lens that functions somewhat like a mirror.
The aiming point is projected forward onto a lens, which reflects it back and allows you to see the red dot.
This type of reflex sight, commonly referred to as an exposed reflex sight, has a very distinct look.
There is no tube-shaped sight, only a small, clear window that the user can see the aiming point on.
However, there is a second type of reflex sight, which is tube shaped.
Tube type is the type of reflex sight will have TWO different lenses, and the aiming point is projected forward from the rear lens to the forward one.
The beam of the light is contained within the tube. Additionally, this type of reflex sight could use tritium in place of a battery powered light beam.
The biggest advantage of a reflex sight is the lack of an eye relief.
This means that your head can be positioned anywhere, you can keep both eyes open while using the weapon, and it is extremely easy to reacquire targets.
Reflex sights are also generally somewhat cheaper than prism sights. Another pro of a reflex sight is the fact that some are available for battery-free use. The one downfall of the reflex sight is that they aren’t magnified, however, some reflex sights are sold with a paired scope that doesn’t have an aiming point.
Reflex sights are an excellent option for many different weapons uses. They are excellent for home defense or tactical uses, some hunting, and for any type of general shooting. For the average rifle user, a reflex sight is what I would recommend.
Holographic sights are not as common as reflex sights or prism sights.
A holographic sight essentially uses a picture of a reticle that is in between glass layers.
EOTech has the patent for holographic sights, so they are the only type you will see. They have a rectangular field of view and a very small reticle for aiming, which allows for more accurate shooting.
The pros of an EOTech sight are that they are extremely precise and accurate, and they are easy to use.
Similar to the reflex sights, they allow for you to shoot the weapon with both eyes open and easily reacquire targets.
The only con of EOTech sights is the price. While they aren’t much different than the basic exposed reflex sight, EOTech sights are much more expensive.
An EOTech sight costs roughly 10 times what a cheap exposed reflex sight will cost. While they are certainly better quality, my opinion is that the difference between the two isn’t enough to justify spending that much more money.
However, I would recommend EOTech sights for anyone needing extremely accurate shooting abilities, such as a competitive shooter.
There’s a reason that they are so popular with the United States military. EOTech sights are very precise, and will allow for more accurate shooting over distance.
Overall, reflex sights are often what people consider to be a “red dot sight,” despite the fact that there are THREE different styles of red dot sights.
Most people don’t know, but “red dot sight” is more of a general term than a specific kind of sight.
Reflex sights are the most common and the least expensive, but are somewhat limited. Dependent on your needs, a simple reflex sight will probably meet your needs. Prism sights are often magnified, so they are better at longer distances, but they have an eye relief. Holographic sights are similar to exposed reflex sights, but are much higher quality at a much higher cost. Exposed reflex sights can have an additional scope added, to allow for magnification.
All in all, given today’s technology, there is a reflex sight available that will meet your shooting needs, at a more affordable cost.
Sightmark is well known for their affordably priced weapon’s optics.
Initially, this made me uncomfortable, as I knew they weren’t as high quality as some other available optics.
After plenty of research and testing my friends’ optics, I eventually went with Sightmark’s Ultra Shot QD paired with a Sightmark 3x Magnifier. You can see that sightmark on my AR15 below:
For me, I knew exactly what I needed in a weapon’s optic, and knew exactly what to expect from the Ultra Shot QD.
Overall, I have not regretted this purchase whatsoever.
It has served the purpose that I bought it for, but I also realize that this sight is not for everyone. As I said previously, there are higher quality optics available, but for the average shooter, the Sightmark Ultra Shot QD will work.
My reasons for selecting the Ultra Shot QD were the affordability and the ease of use.
My thought process is that a reflex style red dot sight is nothing more than a piece of glass with a laser dot in it. If the sight can be accurately zeroed, and will hold that zero, it works.
For my purposes, I will NOT be beating up my sight, using it in foul weather, or needing overly accurate shots at 300+ meters.
Higher quality sights will be waterproof, have smaller reticles to allow for more accurate shots, and will generally be more durable.
The Ultra Shot QD does not have all of these features. However, for the average shooter, it is more than acceptable.
I use it for range shooting and some hunting with no issues. I have shot far more accurate sights, but I am still able to shoot out to 300 meters accurately using the Ultra Shot QD.
The Ultra Shot QD offers four different reticle options and multiple brightness settings.
Some of the best features are how easy it is to install, zero, and use.
The easy clip on the side of the sight allows for it to easily be attached and unattached from the railings on an average AR or other tactical style weapon. The same clip also makes it easy to tighten to fit any railing system.
Compared to some sights, this is a huge positive. However, it will not be affixed to the rail quite as tight as more expensive sights are.
Some will argue that over time, this will affect the accuracy of the sight.
My response to that, is that a knowledgeable shooter should be confirming their zero frequently anyway, so it should be extremely easy to catch and fix this issue.
However, in months of shooting this weapon, I have not had this issue. I have confirmed my zero multiple times, and never had an issue.
Zeroing the sight is a breeze. It requires an Allen wrench, but is an extremely easy sight to zero.
The sight is also extremely easy to use. For the new and experienced shooter alike, it could not be easier. Simply turn the sight on, adjust your brightness, and shoot downrange with both eyes open. It is extremely easy to acquire targets and shoot accurately.
I bought this sight in a combo pack that came with a Sightmark 3x Magnifier.
The magnifier is a separate entity (see photos below), and the user is able to slide the magnifier over if they don’t wish to use it. While this magnifier does take some getting used to, it is equally easy to use.
You will have to get used to where you are placing your head for each shot when you are using the magnifier.
However, once you have it figured out, it is a great addition to the reflex sight.
The fact that you can also slide the magnifier off to the side if you are shooting at a closer range is another awesome feature.
Similar to the reflex sight, there are much higher quality magnifiers out there, but for the average shooter, there is absolutely nothing wrong with this.
For the competitive shooter, serious hunter, and optics snobs, I would avoid this sight.
For the new shooter, basic hunter, and especially the casual plinker, this sight is perfect for you.
If you are just looking for an easy to use sight to go out and shoot targets with every once in a while, this is the sight for you. It is affordably priced, easy to use, and reliable. I have had no issues with my sight, but I also knew exactly what to expect and what I wanted it for before I got it.
Overall, this was a great purchase for me.
About the Author: This post from Robert Sagona who is Army Officer in Columbus, US. He has 2 rifle, and 2 shotgun. So amazing. He bought that product in 2016 and completely satisfied with it. So he write some review about this product and take some photo of his gun. Read my review about best gun safe for the money to pick for yourself the best,
The marketplace for Biometric gun safes is seemingly ever-expanding. There are so many products available that it can be tough to figure out exactly which one is the best buy.
As an experienced shooter, I’m going to provide a full review off the sentry safe biometric quick access pistol safe model # qap1be
But first I’d like to take a moment to emphasize a couple important questions to ask when searching for the best gun safe for you:
What you’ll find here is one of the most reliable safes on the market, no matter which option you choose. I have the two pistol version, but have used the Biometric option much also.
I’ll break down these versions and the situations each is better for here in this article.
First, quick check 5 option of this Sentry Pistol Safe
This is the contemporary masterpiece of the SentrySafe pistol safe line.
I’ve never heard of a standard pistol that wasn’t easily accessible in two shakes of a rabbit’s tail with this version.
I’ve tested this safe in a variety of different situations. Staged emergencies, calm openings, finger pressed at odd angles. The safe performed well in all of these situations, and I’ll break them down here:
The override key provides great backup access in the instance that your finger is too sweaty to successfully open the lock.
Scan family member’s fingerprints when you’ll be gone.
What you should do is keep a handkerchief either on or right by the safe and grab it with your scanning finger before trying to open the safe.
If you’re worried about sweat altering the reading, this is a great solution to the problem.
This product is the best biometric gun safe on the market now!
This version is basically the same as the Biometric option except it’s got a coded entry instead.
Set your code and be sure to remember it, because even with the override you’ll lose several seconds getting the thing open if you have to use the backup option.
I suggest keeping the code similar to a bank card or online passcode that you’ve memorized and will never forget.
The only benefit of this safe over the previous option is that there is no chance of the finger being misread, or of someone else opening it with their fingerprint.
You can give the code to your family members so that they can access in an emergency, which my neighbor did successfully while he was out of town recently.
His son got into the safe and retrieved the gun, using it in self-defense as a scare tactic but not firing.
Some people just don’t trust technology when it comes to their guns. If that is you, but you still want the convenience of this SentrySafe product, get the keyed lock version.
The opening is quiet, and although it’s less quick than the Biometric version because you’ve got to put the key in the hole, it’s still rather fast.
One thing to note here is that in an emergency situation, grabbing your key and identifying the keyhole can be a challenge in a pinch.
This is especially true if your hands are sweaty.
Therefore, I highly recommend the Biometric version (or at the very least, the Electronic Lock version).
Your argument is probably that the technology might fail right when you need it most. But the odds of that happening are far less than the chances of human error – you mess up a lot more than a computer does.
I also always ask, if you’re worried about security, why do you have the key to your safe sitting on a chain attached to the safe? Doesn’t seem to smart, does it? Other than that, the keyed lock safe is just as good as SentrySafe’s other options. Here’s a great video review of the safes.
The TWO pistol capacity option is ideal for if you and your partner both need to store a gun with quick access.
It provides the same single-hand access as the other versions, which doesn’t really do much for the second person but is still convenient.
I call attention to the Sleep Mode – it takes only one quick touch to wake and be ready to open, but it’s important to remember that touch because otherwise you’ll go through the opening sequence at the wrong time.
If you’re an ammo freak like me and prefer to always have extra ammo available at a moment’s notice, than this safe is ideal for you because of the space it offers.
I own this version and only keep one gun in it most of the time, using the rest of the space for storage of ammo.
I have a large shelf in the bedroom where I’ve mounted this safe so that any intruder to my home will never make it into the bedroom. It’s quiet, but if you find a squeak begins to happen on opening, just take some WD-40 to the gears and you’ll be fine.
It's also the best handgun safe for the money in this time.
SentrySafe’s Quick Access Pistol safe is the best pistol safe available on the market, particularly in its class.
The variety of options proves that SentrySafe really cares about its customers and their concerns.
There is literally something for everybody here. I always encourage the modern tech variety, and push you to consider the Biometric option for most situations.
If you’ve enjoyed this article, please share on your social channels so that others can learn of the different options SentrySafe has provided here. Leave a comment and tell me which one is your favorite!
One of the more common issues of discussion among frequent shooters is that of red dot vs scope,
Many hunters wonder which one is better for what type of situation, and if there is ever a time when they should be partial to both.
Personally, I’m a big fan of modern technology when it comes to guns, so the red dot puts me in a sort of heaven.
But today we’ll look at the what red dot and scope are, and what are the differences between them.
So what is the red dot?
Simply put, a red dot is like an optical illusion. Inside a tube or other enclosure on top of the gun, a red dot will be projected onto a screen.
This dot, which is sometimes a line, reticle, or other red honing notation of some kind, appears to be at the same distance as the target. The goal is two-fold:
What about a scope?
Contrast this with a scope, which is purely meant to magnify the target and increase the line of sight on it by the shooter.
There is no red line or marking of any kind, it’s basically the same as looking through a telescope, magnifying glass, or other optical funnel.
Here is a great video on the subject:
There is a reason why red dot scopes have become so heavily used in the military and other high-pressure, intense situations. It is because in short range, rapid fire scenarios, the shooter can aim quicker, follow a moving target with more accuracy, and generally increase their odds of a hit.
The tube of light hits the concave glass lens. The light the shooter sees is the reflection of that light and for field situations, it really helps with accuracy and tracking.
I find that the red dots also help a lot with pinpointing an area on the target that I want to hit while the target is moving. Perhaps that’s because I can make the dot hit that spot for at least a brief second.
No matter the reason, I can’t get that perk with a scope or without using any magnification at all. I also like the ability to subtend either 2, 3, or 4 minutes at 100 years. I most often use the 2 minute option, but have found myself at 3 several times.
On the downside, red dots don’t help as much as a traditional scope with overall accuracy.
You’re also dealing with a battery that may cause issues. This isn’t going to be a problem for those shooters who are fanatical about maintenance and double checking that everything is ready to go before heading into the field.
You should choose one of the best red dot for ar 15, the best quality red dot has been list on that article, move on and get one for your.
But if you’re sloppy, you may be caught off guard with no dot when you need it most. Here is a video on using a red dot scope:
The biggest plus to using a scope instead of a red dot is that many of them have variable power settings, and can be adjusted much easier than the red dot devices.
Another plus is that the scope is more versatile for both close and long range shooting situations. The varied settings of the scope allow for easy adjustment to fit your specific circumstance.
The scope is, overall, better for accuracy and hit percentage.
On the negative side:
I seem to find it difficult to hit a target at the exact point I’m shooting for. While the scope brings the target into focus well, it does little to help shooters hit a precise point beyond making that point larger in their field of view.
Additionally, I find scopes to be harder to adjust my eyes to specifically because they don’t really do anything other than magnify and focus. I appreciate them holding zero, and am not trying to say I don’t find any value in magnified optic scopes. But for specific shooting in high-pressure situations, they fall behind.
Here is a video on how to sight your rifle scope.
Let’s go over a couple of scenarios here and decide whether the red dot or the scope is better.
Scenario 1: Short range white tail hunte.
Scenario 2: long-range hunt or hunt of target at higher elevation than the shooter
Now, obviously there is a lot of my personal experience and opinion in this article.
Long-time scope users will come forward saying that the long-distance competition should have gone to the scope. They are correct assuming that their comfort level with the scope is much higher than with the red dot. Other than that, I fail to see how the scope would win.
Overall, I like the red dot much better because of the parallax issue and short distance accuracy. I keep good track of my battery power and other small details, so I never have any problems there.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this. Go ahead and throw your comments in the section down below, and please share on social media. Let’s get a good conversation going!