If you are new to firearms, then you may have come across bonded or non-bonded bullets and wondered what the difference was.
Well, the answer is really pretty simple, but it has to do with how the bullet is made.
To learn the exact differences between a bonded and non-bonded bullet than continue with reading this article and digging deeper into the subject this article will also provide you valuable information on when it is best to use a bonded or non-bonded round.
So what is the bonded bullet?
A bonded bullet is when the core of the bullet is bonded to the jacket.
This can be done in a variety of ways including electro processes and electro-chemical means.
The way the manufacturer creates a bonded bullet isn’t really the important thing, but the reason why they do it is important.
The main reason for a bonded bullet is it keeps the core and jacket from separating when the bullet penetrates into the target. This is a benefit because it helps the bullet hold most all of its weight into the penetration process.
The reason why the weight is important is the bullet doesn’t expand as rapidly and it goes deeper into the target, especially if the target is thicker fleshed or has a lot of layers.
The fact that the bullet stays together means a deeper and cleaner wound.
When it comes to self-defense the cleanness of the wound may not matter as much to you, but when hunting this could mean the difference of pieces of bullet scattered throughout your game or it being one chunk of metal for you to pull out when cleaning.
Bonded bullets also do an excellent job of going through bone, so if shot placement is off a little with hunting than the effect will be less noticeable with a bonded bullet.
There are some disadvantages to bonded bullets however. One is it cost more to manufacture them.
No matter how the company does the bonding process it is still an extra step and this extra cost has to be passed on to the customer buying the rounds.
Also, since there are extra manufacturing steps they may suffer a little in accuracy. This is because even with top quality control the extra steps means that it is harder to get every bullet coming off the line to be identical. You want your bullets to be identical so they will fire the same way and produce the same results. Consistent results and reliability is really important if you are using the rounds for defense. Outside of these factors bonded bullets still have their place, but these are some of the reasons why they still make non-bonded bullets too.
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Non-bonded bullets are rounds that the core of the bullet and the jacket are not connected.
What's this mean?
This means that when the round is fired it is very likely that it will separate into multiple pieces. This is defiantly true if the target is thick or has parts that can grab onto the bullet. If you are firing into thick flesh, then it can pull the jacket from the round. Also, a hard surface can cause the bullet to shatter on impact. Another quality of a non-bonded bullet is that it expands more rapidly. This means that the penetration may not be as deep.
These things may seem like bad things, but they actually don’t have to be. Since the manufacturing is easier non-bonded rounds cost much less and also since there are fewer steps in making them they fire more consistently. This means that the accuracy is better and with good shot placement a non-bonded bullet is excellent at taking down smaller game where you don’t need deeper penetration. The reason less penetration is good is because it damages less of the meat when you are hunting. If you are hunting deer, then if you place your shot behind the front shoulder, then a non-bonded round will bring it down just as easily as a bonded round. Non-bonded rounds however are not good at going through large game.
The answer to which is best between non-bonded and bonded rounds is it depends on the use.
If you are just having target practice, then a non-bonded round would make a lot more sense because it cost less.
Penetration and deformation results don’t matter if you are just shooting targets for fun. If you are shooting small game or want more accuracy, then a non-bonded round is probably just fine.
It will save you some money and will bring down the small game you are shooting or keep you safe if it is a round you are using for defense. If you are hunting bigger game such as elk or shooting through thicker things, then that is when you may want to consider bonded rounds.
The ability to keep shape better and more consistently on impact is important if you need deeper penetration. Also, if you are shooting the bone or joint of the animal instead of behind the boney part than a bonded round may be what you need.
To sum everything up though there is no right or wrong between bonded and non-bonded rounds.
To answer the question of what a bonded round is, it is simple just a round that has the jacket and core connected. This keeps it from separating and helps the round hold its weight and shape.
When choosing a round it is important to consider your use, but picking a bonded bullet or non-bonded bullet is just one question you have to answer.
Outside of this question you also need to consider caliber of the round and how many grains are behind it.
These are just two other simple questions to think about when choosing a round along with if it is bonded or not.
Part of the joy of buying a new rifle is figuring out which ammo is the best for that specific gun.
There are so many types to choose from that sampling everything at the range just isn’t doable.
Today we’re going to look at the best ammo for a Ruger 10/22 based on a few different situations.
Versatility is key with the Ruger, and a big reason for its popularity. Bulk ammo generally does well, and we’ve identified the best bulk option here.
More specifics may be rejected, but it really depends on what type of barrel you are using.
Let’s take a look:
If there is one mag that severely effects which ammo your gun will like, this is it.
CCI is known for not working well with BX, and many have a tough time shooting anything other than general bulk ammo.
Use a 10-round factory magazine. Versatility and dependability are much higher than with a BX or other options.
We recommend buying a small box of many different types of bullets and enjoying shooting them.
See what sticks and what doesn’t, and what makes you feel the most comfortable. You’ll probably be able to eliminate some of the options after only a few shots fired.
Once you’ve got the group down to three or four, run through specific scenarios and try each ammo with them.
Accuracy, different distances, moving targets, etc. all may deliver different results with different ammo. The best ammo for a Ruger 10/22 is available in bulk, so keep that in mind.
Part of what makes ammo work well with specific guns is how smooth it flows through the chamber.
Remington bulk is easy to load and shoot with a Ruger, and doesn’t slow down the process at all.
As far as accuracy, Remington bulk ranks at the top for 25 and 50 yard shots. It is good enough that nailing a specific area on the target is doable from 25 yards and beyond.
Many have found that Remington bulk is the best ammo for a Ruger 10/22 because it’s easy to order in bulk, fits the specifications of the Ruger, and is generic enough that modifications aren’t going to screw everything up.
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Many barrels are not going to eat Stingers the way they eat general bulk ammo.
But CCI Stingers are great for accuracy in adverse conditions. For shots from a range longer than 25 or 50 yards, wind and other weather factors, and moving targets, Stingers really up the shooting game of the average hunter.
CCI lead 40-gram standard are great ammo for the Ruger 10/22.
At 50 yards, the ammo is a lock with ten shots on a dime.
One thing to watch out for is whether they will cycle well with this gun – if you’ve got a custom barrel or add-ons, this may cause problems.
Other than that, CCI has a lock on the technical shooting aspects of the Ruger 10/22.
Here’s a video of ammo being tested by the Ruger 10/22:
Variety is one of the many benefits of owning a Ruger 10/22.
Most will eat just about any type of ammo, and it will be blatantly apparent if there’s something it doesn’t like.
Keep a bulk ammo on hand at all times, as well as some CCI for more specific situations. When there are choices, the odds of a successful shooting session are much higher.
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Conversation is key in the hunting community, so if you have a specific ammo you love for the Ruger 10/22, share it below in the comments so we can all try it out!
Are you a new gun owner who is trying to figure out the right ammunition for your gun?
Well, this article will help you do just that.
Not only is it important to know the size of ammunition you need, but it is also important to consider the use you have intended for the bullets that you are picking out.
After reading this article you will know how to choose the right ammunition for your firearm based on the purpose you have in mind. So go on!!
Before getting into picking out a bullet by purpose it is important that you get the right caliber for your gun.
When you purchased your firearm you probably went over this with the person you were buying the gun from. Their are a lot of different common sizes and each one is better for certain things than others.
Just remember to pick the right size bullet for your gun. The caliber is how big the diameter of the bullet is and it will match up with the barrel of your firearm. Just remember bigger bullets have more power and also cost more.
People generally have three main purposes for their firearm when it comes time to purchase ammunition.
You probably want to practice with it, go hunting with it, or use it for self defense. Depending on your purpose it will dictate some of the futures you look for when buying ammo.
If you are just going for target practice or training, then you DON'T need the most powerful bullets.
Instead you want to focus on cost of each round.
You don't want to spend a lot on rounds when just shooting them for fun.
For rifles and handguns you probably want to look at FMJ cartridges and bullets.
FMJ rounds are made with soft lead in the middle and this is surrounded with a metal shell. They are easy to make and thus they are cheap.
If you are shooting a shotgun, then you probably want to look into lightweight target loads. They generally are 7.5 shot or smaller. The pellets on the inside of the shell are normally lead unless you live in an area that requires steel shot.
Outside of cost of ammunition you also want to consider the recoil when picking out rounds for target practice.
If you are shooting all day, then your arm will get tired fast if the gun has a lot of recoil. You should probably look for small-bore rim fire ammunition and avoid magnum rounds.
If you are buying ammunition for defense, then cost is a factor, but you really want to make sure you get a round that will stop the threat as quickly as possible.
You want a round that will fire reliable and also come out with a lot of force.
A good type of rounds to use are hollow points. These bullets are designed to expand on contact making a larger hole in what they hit.
This is done by having a empty cavity in the tip of the bullet.
Not only does this make a larger wound though, it also helps with penetration and keeping the bullet in the target so no one else gets hurt.
When using a shotgun you should use buckshot rounds.
The pellets are large enough to do good damage. The key when picking out rounds for self defense though is finding ones that transfer all the energy into the target and also penetrates the target so no unintended person gets hurt.
You also want a reliable round to end the situation quickly.
For hunting you pretty much want to consider all the same factors as with self defense.
You want a bullet that will expand and produce enough damage to the animal that it will kill it quickly and humanly.
That is why if hunting with a shotgun you want to use slugs.
You should NEVER use an FMJ bullet for hunting as it won't kill the animal and it will most likely go straight through.
The difference between ammunition for hunting and defense is you need more penetration for hunting since most hunted animals are larger than humans.
For hunting more power is better,
This means picking out ammunition that produces a lot of force.
This normally means going with a larger caliber bullet.
This is something to keep in mind when purchasing a rifle or handgun if your main intention is hunting you should get something larger up front. (Pick the best handgun safe for the money to keep safety)
So now that you have finished reading this article you should be able to choose the right ammunition for your firearm depending on your purpose.
The two factors to consider when picking out ammunition is caliber of the bullet and also your use for the firearm.
If you are hunting, then you need to get a larger caliber gun.
If you are using it for self defense, then you want reliable rounds that will cause enough damage to end the situation quickly.
If you are just target practicing, then you can go with cheaper FMJ rounds in the caliber for your gun.
Even though there are a lot of different types of bullets there is really only a few uses for them, so you should be able to figure out the right firearm for you now and the right rounds for it.
Full metal jacket or hollow point? This frequent topic of debate is one of the few gun-related topics that actually has fact-based evidence to support both sides of the argument.
I love hollow point bullets and carry them in my concealed weapon. I also like to use them out in the field, and will get into the reasons why in this article.
What many people don’t understand is that there are significant differences between these types of bullets. Let’s take a look at what those differences are, and when each type is preferable over the other.
Simply put, full metal jacket ammo is frequently made of a soft lead core built inside of a shell made up of hard metal such as cupronickel or gilding metal.
The general preference for this type of bullet often stems from the desire for increased muzzle velocity. These bullets maintain their composure and trajectory better than almost any others on the market.
In some cases, full metal jacket ammo contains a steel alloy casing.
FMJ bullets are incredibly strong – it is difficult for metal piercing substances to damage the bore of the bullet.
This, combined with the fact that these bullets do not expand upon hitting their target, makes them ideal for target shooting. Instead of expansion causing the bullet to slow and stop inside the target, full metal jacket bullets pass through and continue on a trajectory.
Full metal jacket ammo is cleaner than unjacketed bullets.
Everything within the bullet is fully concealed. All that has to do with the shooting process is smooth and straightforward, perfect for semi-autos.
For a 9mm, full metal jacket ammo is cleaner and stronger than hollow point.
Hollow point ammo is preferred by hunters and those in defensive situations because it expands upon impact.
This type of ammo maximizes the stopping power of the shot. Targets are crippled and immobilized much more so than they are with full metal jacket ammo, increasing the odds of kill and of a successful hunt.
The expansion is caused by the hallow shape in the tip of the bullet. This allows the internal organs and tissue of the target to be severely impacted and wounded. Penetration is minimized.
For maximum power, many experienced shooters like to use jacketed hallow point bullets.
I personally have found these bullets extremely effective, as the added layer of metal delivers more impact than they otherwise have. What you will find as you progress as a shooter is that hollow point ammo is more versatile than full metal jacket in many situations.
For a 9mm, hollow point bullets are better for shoot to kill and self-defense situations.
Here’s a demonstration of the two.
Full metal jacket ammo has a bit of a sexy appeal to it.
New shooters are attracted by media coverage and the 1987 movie of the same name. It’s proven successful and useful in many military situations and other scenarios.
However, many experienced shooters as well as concealed carry activists prefer hollow point bullets. Let’s take a look at the breakdown:
If you’re planning to head to the gun store to buy some basic ammo for your concealed carry gun or next hunt, the best thing to do is go with hollow point. You’ll find more uses and will have less trouble locating waste and hit targets.
Here is a great video comparing the two.
As you’ve seen here, there is quite a difference in full metal jacket vs hollow point bullets. I hope you’ve gained a better understanding of them.
The general takeaway here is that hollow point bullets expand on contact and thus are more preferable for day-to-day situations because they reduce the risk of hitting targets downfield.
Full metal jacket bullets are stronger and cleaner, and generally better for situations when downfield unintentional targets are not an issue.
If you’ve enjoyed this article, please give it a share on social media. The more education and knowledge we can build in the gun community, the better for all. I’d love to hear about which you prefer – feel free to throw a comment down below and we’ll get a conversation going.
One of the more common questions asked by new shooters is this: what is the difference between rimfire vs. centerfire?
And, beyond that, why should I choose one over the other? Today we are going to dissect these two types of ammo and determine which one is better for your specific situation.
I personally prefer centerfire based on my shooting style, technique, and hobbies, but there are still small-cartridge situations where rimfire is better. Let’s take a look.
Rimfire and centerfire refer to the categories of primer ignition systems, basically, what gets the whole process of firing the bullet going.
The explosion caused by the lighting of the primer causes the gunpowder to react and project the bullet forward out of the barrel of the gun. Every single time a gun is fired, this is what happens, regardless of whether a rimfire or centerfire cartridge is being used.
With centerfire cartridges, the explosion is concentrated more centrally in the middle of the cartridge. This creates a more consistent firing of the bullet. Because of this increase in performance, the professionals in the police and military are preferring centerfire cartridges.
Rimfire cartridges see the explosion overtaking more of the cartridge as it is tripped at the rim. The pressure on the bullet isn’t as concentrated on the center of it, and I’ve heard tale of rimfire cartridges not firing with the power of their centerfire counterparts.
Centerfire cartridges locate the primer in the center of the cartridge case head. These are much more common these days as cartridge size preference trends towards larger sizes. You really won’t find anything other than centerfire cartridges in larger or even medium sizes these days.
The move towards centerfire cartridges is based largely on the fact that they are more reliable in heavy duty situations. Police, military, and serious hunters and shooters have pretty much switched entirely to centerfire cartridges based on their dependability, consistency, and reliability.
Because of this, and because of the fact that so many shooters want to emulate the pros, most shops will stock a wide variety of centerfire cartridges while only stocking a minimal amount of rimfire cartridges.
Rimfire cartridges are pretty much a thing of the past, except for certain gun models. A rimfire cartridge works like this: the firing pin ignites the primer by striking the cartridge’s rim, causing friction and igniting the blast.
Basically, the difference starts with the power issues that we’ve discussed above. Rimfire cartridges are cheaper, for sure, and have lower recoil than centerfire cartridges.
One of the biggest drawbacks of rimfire cartridges is how hard they are to find. The older guys that I grew up with have been buying all the stock they can for fear of it no longer being available anywhere that they shop. As a result of this, hardly any new shooters are using rimfire cartridges.
Centerfire cartridges have higher recoil and are more expensive. But, because they are so widely available and there is no fear of them all being bought out or discontinued, the market price will probably eventually drop significantly just based on supply and demand.
I highly urge you, even if you are a long-time shooter, to make the switch to centerfire cartridges. The long term sustainability is much better and you’ll find that you spend less money over time because of:
Rimfire cartridges are certainly not as prominent as they once were. Right now, 17 caliber and .22 caliber pistol and rifle cartridges can be found in rimfire variety, along with some shotgun cartridges that are small-bore.
You won’t find any game hunting cartridges using rimfire anymore. Beyond that, mostly just collectors’ items will fit rimfire cartridges. .22LR are the most frequently used rimfire cartridge fittings. You’ll also see them in WMR, Winchester Magnum, Hornady Mach 2, and Hornady Magnum. Not a ton of variety offered here!
For today’s pistol, rifle, and shotgun ammunition, most of what is commonly used will be centerfire. If you are looking for a specific rimfire cartridge, your best bet is going to be to shop online on a store’s website first before visiting in person just to make sure that they will stock it before you head out.
I hope you have gained a solid understanding of the differences between rimfire and centerfire cartridges.
Centerfire is the way of the future. Rimfire will likely continue on its slow and miserable decline.
What the high-impact shooters of the world prefer is what goes, and you’ll be better off siding with them. I started using centerfire cartridges years ago because I predicted this trend after spending years in the military serving my country.
If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can increase awareness of the differences between rimfire and centerfire cartridges and get more people switched over.
Feel free to share your comments in the section below and we’ll get a conversation going. Take care!
You want to know which is better between .308 Winchester and 6.5 Creedmoor?
There has been much talk lately about the performance of the .308 Winchester versus the 6.5 Creedmoor. In my opinion, the 6.5 Creedmoor is a better cartridge overall. This is because of its ballistic capabilities and the fact that it is slightly smaller than the .308.
I happen to be fond of the little red tip as well, which is not present on the .308. In this article I’m going to show you why the 6.5 Creedmoor is the superior option, and why you should look for it to play an increasingly large role in the market, in everything from store shelf presence to gun fitting, going forward.
When shooting, both cartridges perform well and are effective for hunting and target shooting at the range. But for medium to long range shooting, the 6.5 Creedmoor is much better because it uses slightly skinnier bullets that make it down range at a faster rate of speed than the other, and I’ve seen multiple times this have a direct impact on accuracy.
The .308 just can’t quite keep up on shots over 700 yards is what I’ve noticed. The longer the shot, the bigger the difference there is between the two cartridges. The .308 Winchester is incredibly well-known in the shooting world. Pretty much everyone has experience with them.
If you’re going for something easy that is simple to get opinions on, fit to a gun, ammo for, or anything else, this is the winner here. But once we start to look a little deeper into the two cartridge types, some major points begin to rise. The 6.5 Creedmoor is a better cartridge, plain and simple. For long range shooting, for accuracy, for speed. Dare I say, even for consistency with loading and gun powder?
The shoulder is sharper on the 6.5 Creedmoor. This also factors into accuracy. If you spend a significant amount of time out in the field with both cartridges, you’ll notice that the brass lasts longer in the Creedmoor. The Creedmoor is based on a .30 TC Case, unlike the .308.
I do have to give the .308 credit for its consistency, however. Every time I’ve used it, or been hunting with someone who is, I feel like I know what to expect with each shot, from load to follow through. When I start getting carried away distance-wise with the 6.5 Creedmoor, I frequently notice some variabilities in the overall feel of the shot. This is particularly true when loading.
The case itself, on both options, is incredibly sturdy. They’ll be dependable whenever you need them and are worth the money. I don’t want to make it seem like I hate the .308 Winchester. I just think that it has had its time, and over the last ten years or more we’ve started to see the rise of a superior option. Particularly for distance accuracy, as I’ll note repeatedly.
I’ll give the .308 the edge for range shooting. It’s more consistent on shorter to mid-range shots and can be used in more guns. And because just about everyone has experience with them, these cartridges are easy to find bullets for and an expert to assist you with loading or anything else that you need help with.
The rising popularity of 6.5 mm cartridges is ensuring that shops will have more and more selections for the Creedmoor when it comes to bullets. Your choice of shot should be largely based on case outline. Again, the 6.5 Creedmoor is the winner here, particularly because as it grows in popularity, more options become available. Both cartridges will suffice just fine in the field. But if you’re hunting with someone using the other, you will notice differences over time.
The 170+ grain measure of the .308 struggles with magazine limitations. I also seem to have better luck with the Creedmoor when it comes to powder. It shoots at a higher speed: a 140-grain shot sees 2710 fps with a superior BC of .526-.535. You ain’t going to get that with the .308!
The 6.5 Creedmoor has less recoil because it fires lighter bullets, making the shots easier on you over time. The .308 is the winner on the lifespan of the barrel, due to the fact that that the .605 has a smaller bore and shoots at higher speeds. It does tend to wear the barrel out.
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If you’re using a bolt action style rifle, .308 will be more apt to work with your gun. Obviously, this depends on what you’re using. But as the 6.5 Creedmoor becomes more popular, more rifle makers have started to make options that will accommodate. I’ve heard hunters say that .308 ammo is cheaper and more available (see video below), but this is going to be less and less of a problem as time moves along.
Since the 6.5 jumped into the spotlight, it has slowly gained momentum and traction. It’s versatility has increased in tune with that. Will it ever surpass the .308 Winchester in popularity? Probably not. Old hacks like me are stuck in our ways, in fact I’m one of the more progressive hunting types in my crew and the only one that currently prefers the 6.5 Creedmoor.
As I’m sure I’ve made very clear throughout this article, I prefer the 6.5 Creedmoor over the .308 Winchester. It’s a better cartridge because of improved accuracy and spotting, particularly in long range shooting. The .308 is the stuff of legend are lore these days, but sometimes its best that a legend passes the torch.
Down the line, the 6.5 Creedmoor will be increasingly fitted and common to more shooters’ tastes and hopefully we can wake up the rest to its superiority. And in my opinion, 6.5 Creedmoor is best ammo for an AR 10 rifle.
If you enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can get the good word out! Perthaps you’re an old .308 guru – throw a comment down below and let’s get a conversation going.
Do similar rounds produce similar results? Any experienced shooter will tell you that that is not always the case. For direct proof, look no further than the .260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor. Both of these are a perfect match for the .308 Winchester rifle. In many cases, if you weren’t the one who loaded the rounds, you may not be able to even tell a difference.
My personal experience has led me to prefer the .260 Remington over the 6.5 Creedmoor. We’ll get into why in this article. I’m old school, is the main reason. This guy pretty much sums up my thoughts on the .260 Remington in this video:
.260 Remington is a classic among long-time riflemen, having been the backbone of what we’ve used for such a long time. The reason for this is that seasoned hunters have expertise in reloading. .260 Remington rounds necessitate this, while 6.5 Creedmoor rounds are better for those without that reloading expertise.
As many new hunters aren’t trained in the art of the reload, Creedmoor can significantly reduce the learning curve when looking to get out into the field. Additionally, the Creedmoor has a shoulder angle that is sharper than the Remington. This comes with less body taper
Additionally, less water is held by the Creedmoor. This won’t affect certain shooters, but it’s worth noting. It can fit a longer bullet because of this, but the general use of handheld cartridges has all but eliminated any benefit there. Here, a video description of the two takes place.
The brass on the .260 Remington is of a higher quality than the 6.5 Creedmoor. With the Creedmoor, you may find that the brass isn’t as long lasting. This affects hunters as they experience less overall durability and flow with their shooting than if they were to use the .260 Remington.
The Creedmoor’s case is a bit shorter than the .260 Remington’s. The Remington is undoubtedly faster as a result of the higher case capacity, necessitating less maintenance in the field. Remingtons are better for those looking to use a bolt gun, but for the semi-automatic inclined, the 6.5 Creedmoor is the better choice. I’m always using bolt, so the Remington works for me.
When it comes to distance shooting, the Remington will be solid up to at least 800-900 yards.
Beyond that, the accuracy can lose a bit of its dependability depending on skill and build. I’ve got mine accurate up to 1000, but I’ve been doing this for a long time. I will concede that the Creedmoor can perfectly nail a target from 1000 yards when built the right way and taken good care of. If everything is prepped correctly, that is the better option for really long distances.
I recommend keeping a chart of data from the rounds you fire with both. Test them out, and through your charts you can identify which one you are more accurate with, and which one makes the overall process easier for you. Keep track of powder, distance, velocity, and muzzle energy. I also encourage testing at different distances. Keep a record of 100 yard accuracy percentage compared with longer shots. Those who are new to long distance shooting should stick with the choice that they are the most comfortable with.
I also encourage shoots to watch some videos online of different practices with both options. Here are a couple great options:
At the end of the day, it really depends on personal preference. Take into consideration which bullets you plan to shoot, and whether or not you are willing to switch them to accommodate aesthetics or if you are hard lined on performance and personal comfort. I’ve grown so accustomed to the .260 Remington over the decades that I’m not going to be switching anything up at this point.
If you enjoyed this article, please share on social media – us gun freaks always love a good debate on equipment. Feel free to share your personal opinions in the comment section here, as I’m sure we’ve got a community of 6.5 Creedmoor users out there that have thoughts on the matter.