Full metal jacket or hollow point? This frequent topic of debate is one of the few gun-related topics that actually has fact-based evidence to support both sides of the argument.
I love hollow point bullets and carry them in my concealed weapon. I also like to use them out in the field, and will get into the reasons why in this article.
What many people don’t understand is that there are significant differences between these types of bullets. Let’s take a look at what those differences are, and when each type is preferable over the other.
Simply put, full metal jacket ammo is frequently made of a soft lead core built inside of a shell made up of hard metal such as cupronickel or gilding metal.
The general preference for this type of bullet often stems from the desire for increased muzzle velocity. These bullets maintain their composure and trajectory better than almost any others on the market.
In some cases, full metal jacket ammo contains a steel alloy casing.
FMJ bullets are incredibly strong – it is difficult for metal piercing substances to damage the bore of the bullet.
This, combined with the fact that these bullets do not expand upon hitting their target, makes them ideal for target shooting. Instead of expansion causing the bullet to slow and stop inside the target, full metal jacket bullets pass through and continue on a trajectory.
Full metal jacket ammo is cleaner than unjacketed bullets.
Everything within the bullet is fully concealed. All that has to do with the shooting process is smooth and straightforward, perfect for semi-autos.
For a 9mm, full metal jacket ammo is cleaner and stronger than hollow point.
Hollow point ammo is preferred by hunters and those in defensive situations because it expands upon impact.
This type of ammo maximizes the stopping power of the shot. Targets are crippled and immobilized much more so than they are with full metal jacket ammo, increasing the odds of kill and of a successful hunt.
The expansion is caused by the hallow shape in the tip of the bullet. This allows the internal organs and tissue of the target to be severely impacted and wounded. Penetration is minimized.
For maximum power, many experienced shooters like to use jacketed hallow point bullets.
I personally have found these bullets extremely effective, as the added layer of metal delivers more impact than they otherwise have. What you will find as you progress as a shooter is that hollow point ammo is more versatile than full metal jacket in many situations.
For a 9mm, hollow point bullets are better for shoot to kill and self-defense situations.
Here’s a demonstration of the two.
Full metal jacket ammo has a bit of a sexy appeal to it.
New shooters are attracted by media coverage and the 1987 movie of the same name. It’s proven successful and useful in many military situations and other scenarios.
However, many experienced shooters as well as concealed carry activists prefer hollow point bullets. Let’s take a look at the breakdown:
If you’re planning to head to the gun store to buy some basic ammo for your concealed carry gun or next hunt, the best thing to do is go with hollow point. You’ll find more uses and will have less trouble locating waste and hit targets.
Here is a great video comparing the two.
As you’ve seen here, there is quite a difference in full metal jacket vs hollow point bullets. I hope you’ve gained a better understanding of them.
The general takeaway here is that hollow point bullets expand on contact and thus are more preferable for day-to-day situations because they reduce the risk of hitting targets downfield.
Full metal jacket bullets are stronger and cleaner, and generally better for situations when downfield unintentional targets are not an issue.
If you’ve enjoyed this article, please give it a share on social media. The more education and knowledge we can build in the gun community, the better for all. I’d love to hear about which you prefer – feel free to throw a comment down below and we’ll get a conversation going.
What separates a semi-automatic gun from a fully automatic machine gun?
Both of them reload automatically, hence the ‘auto’ label.
The main difference between a semi-automatic and a fully automatic machine gun is that on a semi-automatic, the user must pull the trigger each time he or she wishes the gun to fire.
But let’s dive a little deeper into the two types of weapons and uncover other similarities and differences, as well as uses for both semi-auto vs full-auto guns.
What it all comes down to is the ‘action’ on the gun. This refers to the operation of how a gun fires a bullet, ejects the cartridge, and reloads the next round.
Both of these types of guns handle the reloading part in an automated fashion. But the firing is where the difference is.
By definition, a machine gun refers to the fully automated version, which will continue to fire bullets until empty. Therefore, a semi-auto cannot technically be labeled as a machine gun.
Here is a great video on the differences between semi-auto and full-auto.
In the United States, full-auto weapons are typically only available to the military and law enforcement agencies.
The typical armed citizen cannot walk into a gun store and buy a full-auto machine gun.
The process of obtaining one requires extensive permitting and background checks, typically in line with the needs of the police or military.
Individual citizens can attempt to obtain the permitting necessary to purchase a fully automatic weapon, but there is certainly no guarantee of success. Semi-automatic guns can be purchased by citizens who pass the background check and process for obtaining one, and cooperate with any waiting periods or restrictions in the area where they live and are purchasing the gun.
This video explains how a semi-automatic gun works.
Commonly, semi-automatic guns are shotguns, pistols, and rifles.
These types of guns work well with the automated reload and have a trigger conducive to quick pull and fire. Some will be recoil operated.
This refers to guns that have a locked breach, and are auto-loading. The automatic loading cycle is powered by the recoil.
The force of the shot recoils, emptying the chamber of the used casing and allowing the new bullet to load.
Others are powered by gas instead of recoil. The gas yoked from the fired round drives a piston into the weapon’s barrel. This pushes out the used shell, making room for the new one, which is automatically loaded from either the internal or external magazine by pressure.
No matter which type of power a shooter has in their semi-auto gun, no cocking or additional effort is needed to load the new round.
Here is a video on how a full-auto AK works.
There has been much conversation back and forth about whether machine guns, fully automatic, have a viable role in society. If so, what is that role?
Outside of law enforcement and military, there isn’t much of an argument that can succeed at a legal level, at least not right now. But gun hobbyists and fanatics don’t need to get all up in a tiff about it. Semi-automatic guns are honestly pretty impressive these days.
What’s wrong with a little trigger finger exercise? As fast as you can pull, you can shoot round after round until the magazine is empty.
Plus, unless you’re in California or another spot that outlaws them, gun owners can employ a multi-burst trigger activator to make the shooting process even faster.
With these handy gadgets, recoil is a breeze and shooters notice a significant improvement in shooting speed without much effect on their accuracy – provided they’ve got the shoulder for increased pressure.
Plus, the skill of mastering a semi-auto is something that’s definitely worth bragging about if you can back it up at the range. Trigger masters command a great deal of respect in gun circles.
Many of today’s finest shooters use semi-automatic weapons with the speed and finesse of a machine gun – to the point that it takes a keen eye to tell the difference.
Semi-auto vs full-auto is going to be an ongoing conversation in gun circles.
Hopefully this article has given you a better understanding of the difference between the two, and of their important place in society. If you’ve enjoyed this article, please share across your social media channels.
Remember that next time someone at the range starts rambling about machine guns, they are probably full of it. You now can correct them on the fact that a semi-auto is not technically a machine gun. The more knowledge in the gun community, the better.
And i have write a post about best gun safe for the money, you should choose the best for your gun.
I’d love to get some fresh takes on people’s favorite semi-autos as well as machine guns, so feel free to drop a comment below with what you’re shooting. Also note what you hope to be shooting next time you get a nice bonus at work.
One of the more common issues of discussion among frequent shooters is that of red dot vs scope,
Many hunters wonder which one is better for what type of situation, and if there is ever a time when they should be partial to both.
Personally, I’m a big fan of modern technology when it comes to guns, so the red dot puts me in a sort of heaven.
But today we’ll look at the what red dot and scope are, and what are the differences between them.
So what is the red dot?
Simply put, a red dot is like an optical illusion. Inside a tube or other enclosure on top of the gun, a red dot will be projected onto a screen.
This dot, which is sometimes a line, reticle, or other red honing notation of some kind, appears to be at the same distance as the target. The goal is two-fold:
What about a scope?
Contrast this with a scope, which is purely meant to magnify the target and increase the line of sight on it by the shooter.
There is no red line or marking of any kind, it’s basically the same as looking through a telescope, magnifying glass, or other optical funnel.
Here is a great video on the subject:
There is a reason why red dot scopes have become so heavily used in the military and other high-pressure, intense situations. It is because in short range, rapid fire scenarios, the shooter can aim quicker, follow a moving target with more accuracy, and generally increase their odds of a hit.
The tube of light hits the concave glass lens. The light the shooter sees is the reflection of that light and for field situations, it really helps with accuracy and tracking.
I find that the red dots also help a lot with pinpointing an area on the target that I want to hit while the target is moving. Perhaps that’s because I can make the dot hit that spot for at least a brief second.
No matter the reason, I can’t get that perk with a scope or without using any magnification at all. I also like the ability to subtend either 2, 3, or 4 minutes at 100 years. I most often use the 2 minute option, but have found myself at 3 several times.
On the downside, red dots don’t help as much as a traditional scope with overall accuracy.
You’re also dealing with a battery that may cause issues. This isn’t going to be a problem for those shooters who are fanatical about maintenance and double checking that everything is ready to go before heading into the field.
You should choose one of the best red dot for ar 15, the best quality red dot has been list on that article, move on and get one for your.
But if you’re sloppy, you may be caught off guard with no dot when you need it most. Here is a video on using a red dot scope:
The biggest plus to using a scope instead of a red dot is that many of them have variable power settings, and can be adjusted much easier than the red dot devices.
Another plus is that the scope is more versatile for both close and long range shooting situations. The varied settings of the scope allow for easy adjustment to fit your specific circumstance.
The scope is, overall, better for accuracy and hit percentage.
On the negative side:
I seem to find it difficult to hit a target at the exact point I’m shooting for. While the scope brings the target into focus well, it does little to help shooters hit a precise point beyond making that point larger in their field of view.
Additionally, I find scopes to be harder to adjust my eyes to specifically because they don’t really do anything other than magnify and focus. I appreciate them holding zero, and am not trying to say I don’t find any value in magnified optic scopes. But for specific shooting in high-pressure situations, they fall behind.
Here is a video on how to sight your rifle scope.
Let’s go over a couple of scenarios here and decide whether the red dot or the scope is better.
Scenario 1: Short range white tail hunte.
Scenario 2: long-range hunt or hunt of target at higher elevation than the shooter
Now, obviously there is a lot of my personal experience and opinion in this article.
Long-time scope users will come forward saying that the long-distance competition should have gone to the scope. They are correct assuming that their comfort level with the scope is much higher than with the red dot. Other than that, I fail to see how the scope would win.
Overall, I like the red dot much better because of the parallax issue and short distance accuracy. I keep good track of my battery power and other small details, so I never have any problems there.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this. Go ahead and throw your comments in the section down below, and please share on social media. Let’s get a good conversation going!
There are so many AR scope mounts available that it can be confusing to know which one to choose.
In my fifty years or more of hunting, I’ve tried a number of them, and today we’ll be discussing five budget-friendly options for scope mounts.
If you need assistance with accuracy, finding and holding zero, and a general improvement in your shooting, this article is for you. Here are the five best AR scope mounts.
Burris 410341 AR PEPR 30-mm Scope Mount (Black) (Editor's Choice)
This is my review about 5 best ar scope mount on the market, it will help you find the best for hunting. Check out it:
Versatility is the name of the game with this one, the best AR scope mount from Burris.
For any shooters struggling to find the right scope mount for a variety of angles, this one comes in three sizes (1 inch, 30 mm, and 34mm).
You can have the same scope mount on different size guns and always enter the field feeling comfortable in your ability to hold zero across multiple options.
I prefer the Picatinny top because that’s what I’ve been shooting with for many years, but my nephew is on board with the smooth mount and has no problems nailing targets at 150 yards or more.
There are two nuts keeping the mount on the rail and they aren’t going to strip on you.
While that’s a worry with many other low budget mounts, I haven’t heard any tale of that happening with the Burris.
To further the versatility, this scope gives users the ability to mount on a variety of models and sizes, up to 50 mm without too much pressure on the piece.
This scope is best for shooters who spend most of their time at the range instead of in the field because of its weight.
I’ve used this scope on my Bushnell 3-9x40 for many years because it is the best AR scope mount on the market.
Before, I was having issues with dealing with wobbly scope mounts that actually hindered my line of sight instead of helped.
This scope is securely fastened on top of the gun and never shakes. I’ve hit targets from 180 yards or more many times and it’s a breeze.
I have heard tell of this scope mount cracking, but that is generally a result of improper securement.
If you know what you’re doing, you can use Loctite on the screws and shouldn’t have any issues.
When secured well, you’ll be able to hold zero with no effort and greatly improve accuracy both at the range and out in the field.
Tight securement and consistency are what makes this one of the best AR scope mounts.
Another solid option for a 30-mm rifle scope.
If you’ve had problems in the past with cracked scopes, this is a great solution because the aluminum alloy is strong enough to handle strong recoil.
The downside to this is that this scope is heavier than many of the more expensive ones. Even with a lot of pushback, this rifle scope holds zero securely as long as you use higher quality screws.
I don’t like the ones that come standard, and recommend upgrading to avoid them being stripped.
This one speaks to the heart of the true American. The biggest benefit I’ve noticed is the AD-RECON mounts are the best in the industry. Heavy recoil will never be a problem for anyone using this mount.
If you’re shooting with a 1-6x24 scope or something similar, the weight of this mount shouldn’t offset the benefits. This holds true when hiking into the field.
The one thing to do on the side is to get ahold of some Loctite and use it for the screws.
I haven’t seen any stripping issues but for security, it will ensure no issues when in a high-pressure situation. All repositioning can be done by hand if you don’t have a screwdriver or tools.
The floating ring setup is impactful for the heavy hunter and helps separate American Defenseman from other best AR scope mounts on the market. Overall, this is the second best option on this list
The two-piece AR scope mount set here is the best value.
If you struggle with recoil issues, these Accushot UTGs will help you hold the gun securely so that you’re firing doesn’t impact accuracy. I also really like their assistance with holding zero.
The flexibility offered by a multi-piece mounting setup with these as a part of it will help accuracy at the range or in the field.
These scope rings perform well as Picatinny/Weaver and any other setup you need high-impact, low budget scope rings to grow your game. Obtaining these scopes online makes them even more wallet friendly.
I set them up in about two minutes on my 20 gauge slug and did it all by hand. Those of you needing simple rings, here is your answer.
The CCOP is the one I have the most experience with. I turned to their scope mount to solve recoil issues I was having with the previous one.
Since the switch, I’ve had no issues whatsoever.
My first use of the Burris AR scope came about two years ago when I bought a new shotgun that the CCOP wouldn’t fit, at least not in a way that made me comfortable.
I’ve taken it on three hunting trips and love the sturdiness, ease of holding zero, and accuracy at 200 yards. To pick between the two, I encourage you to purchase the Burris 410341 as the best AR scope mount on the market.
If this article proves anything, it’s that you don’t have to spend big on AR scope mounts. These options are well-rounded, each with its pros and cons.
Ultimately, my field experience led me to the Burris and CCOP options that I’ve grown accustomed to. I’ve gotten both my son and brother on board as well.
I encourage you to do the same. If you enjoyed this review, please share on social media and add your thoughts in the comments below. If there is one that needs to be added to the list, let us know!
What is the best shotgun scope available on the entry-level market right now?
There are a number of them, and most of them essentially get the job done the same way.
It is important to identify whether the shotgun scope you are looking to buy is going to solve your personal problems, such as increasing the line of vision, improving accuracy, or making the transition from the range into the hunting field.
The best shotgun scope for you depends on three factors:
Let’s take a look at the best shotgun scope in those three categories: Shotgun Scope for the gear nerd needing top measurements/ for the experienced hunter/ and Shogun Scope for solving the problems of the everyday hunter
Nikon ProStaff Shotgun Hunter 2-7 x 32 Black Matte Riflescope(BDC 200) (Editor's Choice)
This is my review about 3 shotgun scope on the market, it will help you find the best for hunting. Check out it:
This rifle scope boasts a higher magnification rate (up to 7x) than the other scopes here, along with and decent eye relief (3.8 inches).
If you frequently have problems zeroing in on your targets, this is the best rifle scope for you because the combination of the eye relief and mag rate bring targets into focus from as far as 300 yards.
Pretty impressive slug accuracy, and honing in on the center of the target was a breeze
Additionally, this is a great rifle scope for shooters traditionally accustomed to range shooting but looking to step up their field game. Moving targets are brought into focus and remain there.
I really found that this scope helped me learn how to move my gun across the field of view without a quiver or shake. It really makes it easy to have confidence in your shots. I recommend pairing the Nikon ProStaff with a Mossberg or Remington.
For situational shooting, this scope will help with:
Hi low mounts. No problems with clearance or mounting, you’d think this scope was developed by the gun manufacturer
200 yard or higher moving targets. If you use the gun for long-range shots, this scope will be the best of the entry-level class for yo
The best shotgun scope for those already bringing a level of confidence to the table is this one.
The Bushnell Trophy falls behind the Nikon ProStaff in magnification up to 4x and eye relief (3.5 inches), but not far enough that a confident shooter won’t be able to hit their target. If you are looking for a scope that focuses extremely fast as the top priority, this is the best scope for you
Bushnell really focused on the windage issue with this scope.
Mounting and elevation are secure and consistent across different guns, as you’ll find that hi low mounts typical among entry-level scopes will do the job. Get 1 inch rings and a mounting rail.
If you hunt in foggy or otherwise non-optimal conditions, or at altitude or across widely varying different seasons, this scope will give you a consistent line of sight. It’s versatile. You’ll never find yourself searching for a wipe or needing to remount in a situation where the scope should have performed
During the golden hour (either morning or evening), the light transmission is fantastic. You’ll have the best vision of the season
It isn’t as versatile as the Nikon ProStaff. Experienced shooters will have to use their skills to make up for the reduced magnification
While the magnification (4x) is not a speck above standard, Simmons outdoes itself with the 4 inches of eye relief. Coupled with that is the Quick Target Acquisition, making this scope a great option for beginners and regular shooters.
The imagery is good for hunters of moving targets, especially deer, turkey, and others than tend to bounce as they trot. So this scope is perfect for deerhunting.
For newer shooters, the windage issue isn’t really a problem with the Simmons. It is the best shotgun scope for them because the elevation adjustment system isn’t going to budge, no matter the weather condition or season.
I like how easily it mounts onto my 870 remington shotgun. The one issue I have heard about with this scope is hard recoil. I recommend shooters to really fasten the scope securely and double check that everything is lined up right.
Most younger shooters that aren’t able to suck up the recoil as naturally may see problems if shooting many 3030s or similar rounds. But for less recoil, this scope will serve just fine
Perfect for short range hunting. You won’t find a better scope at 75 or fewer yards
Improves accuracy greatly, another reason why it’s best for beginners. This is the one scope on this list that really accentuates the ‘entry-level’ moniker
The best shotgun scopes on the market are all sufficient at basic daily hunting and range shooting.
Where they differ comes down to the slight intricacies of the manufacturer and how the scopes handle themselves once mounted.
You experienced shooters should go with the Bushnell Trophy Shotgun Scope, while I strongly recommend the Simmons scope for anyone who hasn’t used a scope before or is new to shooting. It is the most basic of the three
Overall, the best shotgun scope in this entry-level class is the Nikon ProStaff Shotgun Hunter. It’s versatility, high level of magnification, and ease of use make it a no contest for those not willing to break the bank on their shotgun scope.
Mount it securely and do a test run at the range before bringing it into field, and you will find a pleasant, replicable experience each time you hunt – no matter the location or time. If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can get more hunters to put thought into their scope selection.
If you are using a shotgun, Please consider buy the best gun safe for the money to storage it.
Feel free to leave a comment – I’d love to get a conversation going
Which pistol to carry for defense purposes is an important question. Over the years, I’ve switched between a number of different guns for carry purposes and to use at the range.
Two of them have stood out above the others as the most appropriate for general carry – the SP101 and the gp100 Ruger.
I spent about ten years with an SP101 type model after it came to market in 1989 before recently switching to the GP100.
Today, I’ll tell you what I liked and didn’t like about both and we’ll compare the SP101 vs gp100 Ruger. Let’s get started.
The SP101 maintains the feel and functionality of classic concealed carry guns. It’s small, in the featherweight class, and easy to draw.
Do you want check price? Check it here:
The GP100 is actually a modernized version of what was known as the Security Six. Physically, the newer model is much cleaner and fires better. It is highly preferable to me in day-to-day situations. I keep urging my wife to get one too, because she is now jealous of mine.
In short, the GP100 is a better gun for concealed carry and personal protection. The gun itself is an evolution of previous hand-held revolvers, marking an improvement upon them, and it has been modified even since as it fits different caliber and barrel lengths. The gun is more versatile and can be better fitted to your personal preferences.
I find it more comfortable in concealed mode, in fact I hardly even notice that it is there. I love .357 Magnums, and the flow of this gun throughout the loading and shooting process is very smooth.
The SP101 is more of a heavy-duty type small revolver. Over the years, it’s been used by police departments as a quick-grab backup weapon, and is designed for situations where it will be used by a highly trained professional.
I used it quite a bit at the range to get a good feel, and I’ve got to say that I was able to feel comfortable with the GP100 much faster than the SP101.
They are both great guns. But let’s say that you are carrying a gun for the instance when a bad guy pops out of nowhere and you (as a common citizen, not a police officer) have to react quickly and depend on your gun to perform every time. The GP100 is easier to handle and easier to shoot.
Both of these handguns come in multiple versions, barrel lengths, and caliber, fit to taste.
What I really like about the GP100 is the shot capacity and variety of calibers. Almost all, with the exception of the GPF-840 and the 1757, are full shroud, which is a huge plus for me. I prefer one of the variations with adjustable sights, because I’m old school and like to try out many different options before settling on my emergency go-to.
The SP101 is a bit heavier than many other revolvers (not enough to cause a major disturbance, but if weight is your biggest factor, this is another reason to go with the GP 100). This gun does have a smooth double action, along with a bobbed hammer, two things I really like and that kept it at my waist for nearly ten years. It offers large, high-visibility sights, which I also loved. However, during rapid fire, I found I had a harder time tracking the sights than I have with the GP100.
As a review, let’s take a look at the points each gun has in its category here at the end of the comparison:
Both the GP100 and the SP101 are fine small size revolvers to keep by your side in concealed carry mode.
Both can get the job the done.
But what has really drawn me to switch from the SP101 to the GP100 is the ease of comfortability I felt when learning the gun that was new to me. It takes a lot to get an old timer like me to change his ways, but the GP100 is the best revolver I have ever shot. I’ll keep it by my side until I die.
If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media. I’d love to see how far we can push the word of the GP100. Feel free to leave comments below, let’s get a discussion going!. Oh one thing, if you need the gun safe for this ruger gun, you can take a look my post about best handgun safe for the money.
One of the more common questions asked by new shooters is this: what is the difference between rimfire vs. centerfire?
And, beyond that, why should I choose one over the other? Today we are going to dissect these two types of ammo and determine which one is better for your specific situation.
I personally prefer centerfire based on my shooting style, technique, and hobbies, but there are still small-cartridge situations where rimfire is better. Let’s take a look.
Rimfire and centerfire refer to the categories of primer ignition systems, basically, what gets the whole process of firing the bullet going.
The explosion caused by the lighting of the primer causes the gunpowder to react and project the bullet forward out of the barrel of the gun. Every single time a gun is fired, this is what happens, regardless of whether a rimfire or centerfire cartridge is being used.
With centerfire cartridges, the explosion is concentrated more centrally in the middle of the cartridge. This creates a more consistent firing of the bullet. Because of this increase in performance, the professionals in the police and military are preferring centerfire cartridges.
Rimfire cartridges see the explosion overtaking more of the cartridge as it is tripped at the rim. The pressure on the bullet isn’t as concentrated on the center of it, and I’ve heard tale of rimfire cartridges not firing with the power of their centerfire counterparts.
Centerfire cartridges locate the primer in the center of the cartridge case head. These are much more common these days as cartridge size preference trends towards larger sizes. You really won’t find anything other than centerfire cartridges in larger or even medium sizes these days.
The move towards centerfire cartridges is based largely on the fact that they are more reliable in heavy duty situations. Police, military, and serious hunters and shooters have pretty much switched entirely to centerfire cartridges based on their dependability, consistency, and reliability.
Because of this, and because of the fact that so many shooters want to emulate the pros, most shops will stock a wide variety of centerfire cartridges while only stocking a minimal amount of rimfire cartridges.
Rimfire cartridges are pretty much a thing of the past, except for certain gun models. A rimfire cartridge works like this: the firing pin ignites the primer by striking the cartridge’s rim, causing friction and igniting the blast.
Basically, the difference starts with the power issues that we’ve discussed above. Rimfire cartridges are cheaper, for sure, and have lower recoil than centerfire cartridges.
One of the biggest drawbacks of rimfire cartridges is how hard they are to find. The older guys that I grew up with have been buying all the stock they can for fear of it no longer being available anywhere that they shop. As a result of this, hardly any new shooters are using rimfire cartridges.
Centerfire cartridges have higher recoil and are more expensive. But, because they are so widely available and there is no fear of them all being bought out or discontinued, the market price will probably eventually drop significantly just based on supply and demand.
I highly urge you, even if you are a long-time shooter, to make the switch to centerfire cartridges. The long term sustainability is much better and you’ll find that you spend less money over time because of:
Rimfire cartridges are certainly not as prominent as they once were. Right now, 17 caliber and .22 caliber pistol and rifle cartridges can be found in rimfire variety, along with some shotgun cartridges that are small-bore.
You won’t find any game hunting cartridges using rimfire anymore. Beyond that, mostly just collectors’ items will fit rimfire cartridges. .22LR are the most frequently used rimfire cartridge fittings. You’ll also see them in WMR, Winchester Magnum, Hornady Mach 2, and Hornady Magnum. Not a ton of variety offered here!
For today’s pistol, rifle, and shotgun ammunition, most of what is commonly used will be centerfire. If you are looking for a specific rimfire cartridge, your best bet is going to be to shop online on a store’s website first before visiting in person just to make sure that they will stock it before you head out.
I hope you have gained a solid understanding of the differences between rimfire and centerfire cartridges.
Centerfire is the way of the future. Rimfire will likely continue on its slow and miserable decline.
What the high-impact shooters of the world prefer is what goes, and you’ll be better off siding with them. I started using centerfire cartridges years ago because I predicted this trend after spending years in the military serving my country.
If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can increase awareness of the differences between rimfire and centerfire cartridges and get more people switched over.
Feel free to share your comments in the section below and we’ll get a conversation going. Take care!
So you’re thinking about buying a rifle scope. You’ve decided that you need increased visibility when out in the field, making your gun that much more effective.
This is your guide all about rifle scopes, how to use them, how to measure them, and how to read the measurements.
I’ve been using rifle scopes for years, and have tried many low and high power scopes. These days, I prefer the lower power scopes whenever they are applicable. Let’s take a look at what rifle scopes can do for you.
Rifle scopes have completely changed the game for shooters. Low power scopes seem to be rising in popularity these days as hunters realize that having more power than they need in terms of eyesight isn’t always a good thing.
Sometimes, it’s best to just go with instincts instead of overdoing it with extras. I hope you have found this post helpful – if so, please share on social media and feel free to comment below. Ideas and experiences are the stepping stones of progression. The more people we get talking, the better our hunting skills will be!
You want to know which is better between .308 Winchester and 6.5 Creedmoor?
There has been much talk lately about the performance of the .308 Winchester versus the 6.5 Creedmoor. In my opinion, the 6.5 Creedmoor is a better cartridge overall. This is because of its ballistic capabilities and the fact that it is slightly smaller than the .308.
I happen to be fond of the little red tip as well, which is not present on the .308. In this article I’m going to show you why the 6.5 Creedmoor is the superior option, and why you should look for it to play an increasingly large role in the market, in everything from store shelf presence to gun fitting, going forward.
When shooting, both cartridges perform well and are effective for hunting and target shooting at the range. But for medium to long range shooting, the 6.5 Creedmoor is much better because it uses slightly skinnier bullets that make it down range at a faster rate of speed than the other, and I’ve seen multiple times this have a direct impact on accuracy.
The .308 just can’t quite keep up on shots over 700 yards is what I’ve noticed. The longer the shot, the bigger the difference there is between the two cartridges. The .308 Winchester is incredibly well-known in the shooting world. Pretty much everyone has experience with them.
If you’re going for something easy that is simple to get opinions on, fit to a gun, ammo for, or anything else, this is the winner here. But once we start to look a little deeper into the two cartridge types, some major points begin to rise. The 6.5 Creedmoor is a better cartridge, plain and simple. For long range shooting, for accuracy, for speed. Dare I say, even for consistency with loading and gun powder?
The shoulder is sharper on the 6.5 Creedmoor. This also factors into accuracy. If you spend a significant amount of time out in the field with both cartridges, you’ll notice that the brass lasts longer in the Creedmoor. The Creedmoor is based on a .30 TC Case, unlike the .308.
I do have to give the .308 credit for its consistency, however. Every time I’ve used it, or been hunting with someone who is, I feel like I know what to expect with each shot, from load to follow through. When I start getting carried away distance-wise with the 6.5 Creedmoor, I frequently notice some variabilities in the overall feel of the shot. This is particularly true when loading.
The case itself, on both options, is incredibly sturdy. They’ll be dependable whenever you need them and are worth the money. I don’t want to make it seem like I hate the .308 Winchester. I just think that it has had its time, and over the last ten years or more we’ve started to see the rise of a superior option. Particularly for distance accuracy, as I’ll note repeatedly.
I’ll give the .308 the edge for range shooting. It’s more consistent on shorter to mid-range shots and can be used in more guns. And because just about everyone has experience with them, these cartridges are easy to find bullets for and an expert to assist you with loading or anything else that you need help with.
The rising popularity of 6.5 mm cartridges is ensuring that shops will have more and more selections for the Creedmoor when it comes to bullets. Your choice of shot should be largely based on case outline. Again, the 6.5 Creedmoor is the winner here, particularly because as it grows in popularity, more options become available. Both cartridges will suffice just fine in the field. But if you’re hunting with someone using the other, you will notice differences over time.
The 170+ grain measure of the .308 struggles with magazine limitations. I also seem to have better luck with the Creedmoor when it comes to powder. It shoots at a higher speed: a 140-grain shot sees 2710 fps with a superior BC of .526-.535. You ain’t going to get that with the .308!
The 6.5 Creedmoor has less recoil because it fires lighter bullets, making the shots easier on you over time. The .308 is the winner on the lifespan of the barrel, due to the fact that that the .605 has a smaller bore and shoots at higher speeds. It does tend to wear the barrel out.
If you are finding the safe for you gun, don’t hesitate to read the best handgun safe for the money to choose the good one
If you’re using a bolt action style rifle, .308 will be more apt to work with your gun. Obviously, this depends on what you’re using. But as the 6.5 Creedmoor becomes more popular, more rifle makers have started to make options that will accommodate. I’ve heard hunters say that .308 ammo is cheaper and more available (see video below), but this is going to be less and less of a problem as time moves along.
Since the 6.5 jumped into the spotlight, it has slowly gained momentum and traction. It’s versatility has increased in tune with that. Will it ever surpass the .308 Winchester in popularity? Probably not. Old hacks like me are stuck in our ways, in fact I’m one of the more progressive hunting types in my crew and the only one that currently prefers the 6.5 Creedmoor.
As I’m sure I’ve made very clear throughout this article, I prefer the 6.5 Creedmoor over the .308 Winchester. It’s a better cartridge because of improved accuracy and spotting, particularly in long range shooting. The .308 is the stuff of legend are lore these days, but sometimes its best that a legend passes the torch.
Down the line, the 6.5 Creedmoor will be increasingly fitted and common to more shooters’ tastes and hopefully we can wake up the rest to its superiority. And in my opinion, 6.5 Creedmoor is best ammo for an AR 10 rifle.
If you enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can get the good word out! Perthaps you’re an old .308 guru – throw a comment down below and let’s get a conversation going.
It’s that dreaded moment. The time when you have to move a gun safe from one place to another. Gun safes are notoriously heavy and difficult to move, much like that furniture you inherited from Grandma. Everything about the process basically sucks, but it is doable. Follow this simple series of steps on how to move a gun safe and you’ll have that thing in its new location in no time.
Get the safe as light as possible by removing anything that doesn’t need to be inside.
Ammo, anything else that can be put in a separate box for now, should be taken out.
If moving to a new house, park the moving truck with the rear facing either the sidewalk or driveway that you will be approaching from. Lower the ramp and be sure the path to get to the truck is made as easy as possible.
For larger safes, provide the team with worker gloves if they don’t already have some. I also find it helpful to provide pizza and beer to those that help me move – it seems to get everyone in a better mood and creates a team atmosphere. Here is a great video.
Gun safes are heavy in order to make them near impossible to steal should someone intrude into your home. Moving them about is intentionally a process. I moved my 800-pound gun safe from our old house in Naples, Florida to our new spot in Lyndon, Washington and learned the hard way that gun safes aren’t the most transportable of items. We spent an extra grand on gas on the drive because of the added weight. However, I picked up these tips:
Going around corners can be tough. The most important thing is to remain calm and proceed slowly. If you can, have a person position themselves on the far side of the safe (the side opposing the direction you are turning into) to provide added support from the back side. This person can forcefully push into the rear as the safe is moved around the corner. Go wide – by this I mean swing the dolly a bit further out than you initially think is necessary. That will allow the safe and dolly to be turned at an easier angle without striking the wall or toppling onto the person guarding the rear.
Ready to exert some strength? Good, because this is the time to show off how those gym sessions have sculpted your muscles.
With smaller ones, the process of how to move a gun safe is basically the same buy slightly less intense. Follow the above steps and make adjustments where necessary – you won’t need as many people or as much strength. If the safe can be carried, be sure to have at least two people for added support. Set the safe down gently and be mindful of doorways, walls, and protruding objects when passing through hallways. Do not set the safe on top of anything else – it’s weight may crush other objects.
Now you know how to move a gun safe. The process is tough but can be enjoyable with friends and a good attitude. One thing to keep in mind is that when moving the gun safe to a new house, identify in advance the best location for the safe. In the garage or a room where it will not need to be moved ever again. If you enjoyed this article, please share. Knowledge is power, just like teamwork! If you have any tips or anything, feel free to leave them in the comments and we’ll get a discussion going. Check out my recent post about best ar10 scope