Feeling confused about the difference between single action and double action?
By the end of this article, I will teach you the primary differences between the two, tell you the pros and cons of each, and say in what situation I prefer each.
To understand the difference between single action and double action, you must first understand exactly how a handgun works.
When you pull the slide of the handgun back, it allows for the magazine spring to push a bullet into the chamber. It also cocks the hammer of the firearm back.
Then, when you pull the trigger of the gun, it causes the hammer to snap forward, which pushes the firing pin inside the gun into the primer of the bullet cartridge.
When the firing pin strikes the primer, it ignites the propellant that will send the bullet flying down the barrel at a high rate of speed.
Single action is the exact chain of events that was previously described.
When you pull the handgun slide back, the hammer is cocked and locked back.
When you pull the trigger of the gun, it drops the hammer, and the bullet is fired.
Many revolvers are single action, meaning you have to cock the hammer each time you shoot it.
In some semiautomatic pistols with an exposed hammer, you are able to decock the hammer.
In essence, you are able to ride the hammer forward slowly with your finger, without firing a bullet.
Similarly, some revolvers do not have an exposed hammer, and are double action each time you shoot it.
When you pull the trigger of a double action weapon, it serves two purposes. First, the trigger pull will cock the hammer. Second, the trigger pull will also drop the hammer.
As a result, double action weapons have a very long trigger pull.
Both single and double action weapons have their pros and cons.
In semiautomatic pistols, the difference between single action and double action is almost negligible.
Once you pull the slide back, it will usually cock the hammer. Then, it’s just a matter of whether you decock the hammer or not. At that point, the two weapons are extremely similar, in that all you have to do is pull the trigger. For that reason, I think the two can be used interchangeably.
Both single action and double action semiautomatic pistols can be used for hunting, casual shooting, and self-defense.
However, the difference becomes magnified when using a revolver.
In my opinion, single action revolvers are BETTER for hunting, and double action revolvers are better for self-defense.
For general shooting, either will work, but I would recommend single action. I prefer double action revolvers for self-defense since you don’t have to worry about cocking the hammer each time you shoot.
I prefer single action for general shooting, because it requires you to pay better attention. Since you have to cock the hammer each time, you are unlikely to make any careless mistakes.
Overall, the biggest difference between single action and double action weapons is what the trigger does when you pull it.
When you pull the trigger of a single action weapon, it simply drops the hammer. In a double action weapon, pulling the trigger both cocks and drops the hammer.
Both are effective mechanisms, and each of them have their pros and cons.
Part of the joy of buying a new rifle is figuring out which ammo is the best for that specific gun.
There are so many types to choose from that sampling everything at the range just isn’t doable.
Today we’re going to look at the best ammo for a Ruger 10/22 based on a few different situations.
Versatility is key with the Ruger, and a big reason for its popularity. Bulk ammo generally does well, and we’ve identified the best bulk option here.
More specifics may be rejected, but it really depends on what type of barrel you are using.
Let’s take a look:
If there is one mag that severely effects which ammo your gun will like, this is it.
CCI is known for not working well with BX, and many have a tough time shooting anything other than general bulk ammo.
Use a 10-round factory magazine. Versatility and dependability are much higher than with a BX or other options.
We recommend buying a small box of many different types of bullets and enjoying shooting them.
See what sticks and what doesn’t, and what makes you feel the most comfortable. You’ll probably be able to eliminate some of the options after only a few shots fired.
Once you’ve got the group down to three or four, run through specific scenarios and try each ammo with them.
Accuracy, different distances, moving targets, etc. all may deliver different results with different ammo. The best ammo for a Ruger 10/22 is available in bulk, so keep that in mind.
Part of what makes ammo work well with specific guns is how smooth it flows through the chamber.
Remington bulk is easy to load and shoot with a Ruger, and doesn’t slow down the process at all.
As far as accuracy, Remington bulk ranks at the top for 25 and 50 yard shots. It is good enough that nailing a specific area on the target is doable from 25 yards and beyond.
Many have found that Remington bulk is the best ammo for a Ruger 10/22 because it’s easy to order in bulk, fits the specifications of the Ruger, and is generic enough that modifications aren’t going to screw everything up.
NOTE: Best scope for ruger 10/22 is good choice for your ruger, it will help you improve your result
Many barrels are not going to eat Stingers the way they eat general bulk ammo.
But CCI Stingers are great for accuracy in adverse conditions. For shots from a range longer than 25 or 50 yards, wind and other weather factors, and moving targets, Stingers really up the shooting game of the average hunter.
CCI lead 40-gram standard are great ammo for the Ruger 10/22.
At 50 yards, the ammo is a lock with ten shots on a dime.
One thing to watch out for is whether they will cycle well with this gun – if you’ve got a custom barrel or add-ons, this may cause problems.
Other than that, CCI has a lock on the technical shooting aspects of the Ruger 10/22.
Here’s a video of ammo being tested by the Ruger 10/22:
Variety is one of the many benefits of owning a Ruger 10/22.
Most will eat just about any type of ammo, and it will be blatantly apparent if there’s something it doesn’t like.
Keep a bulk ammo on hand at all times, as well as some CCI for more specific situations. When there are choices, the odds of a successful shooting session are much higher.
If you found this article helpful, please share on social media.
Conversation is key in the hunting community, so if you have a specific ammo you love for the Ruger 10/22, share it below in the comments so we can all try it out!
Ever wondered whether a red dot sight vs a reflex sight will be better for your rifle?
For starters, most people are confused about the difference between a red dot sight and a reflex sight. But what is the truth?
“Red dot sight” IS NOT a specific type of sight.
It is actually a general term that is used to describe any kind of weapon optic that uses a red dot as an aiming point. In place of red dots, some sights have green dots or similar electronic images, such as a crosshair, as an aiming point.
There are three different types of “red dot sights”:
Each of which is slightly different. As you can see, a reflex sight is actually a type of red dot sight. The two are somewhat interchangeable. When the average person thinks of a “red dot sight” they are commonly thinking of an exposed reflex sight, which we will talk about later.
In this article, we will go over some key similarities and differences between the different styles of sights.
By the end of this article, you will have a better understanding of various weapons sights. So now, we're going to find each type of red dot sight. Related that, if you are planning buy a red dot, read my article about best red dot sights for AR 15, you will find the good one for your AR
A prism sight is a short, tube-style optic.
While traditional rifle optics use a series of lenses, prism sights use a prism to focus the image you see down the scope.
As a result, a prism scope is much smaller than the traditional rifle scope.
The pros of a prism scope are that they are commonly available with a small magnification and they allow for either etched or illuminated reticles.
The biggest downfall is the smaller eye relief, which means that your eye has to be closer to the optic to pick up a proper sight picture.
Prism scopes are somewhat more expensive than reflex sights, but the prices have been on the decline.
Prism sights are ideal for the average target shooter or distance shooter. When using a prism sight, it is harder to reacquire the target due to the eye relief. For someone who is trying to shoot targets at extended distance, the magnification and precision of a prism sight will be perfect.
Reflex sights use a lens that functions somewhat like a mirror.
The aiming point is projected forward onto a lens, which reflects it back and allows you to see the red dot.
This type of reflex sight, commonly referred to as an exposed reflex sight, has a very distinct look.
There is no tube-shaped sight, only a small, clear window that the user can see the aiming point on.
However, there is a second type of reflex sight, which is tube shaped.
Tube type is the type of reflex sight will have TWO different lenses, and the aiming point is projected forward from the rear lens to the forward one.
The beam of the light is contained within the tube. Additionally, this type of reflex sight could use tritium in place of a battery powered light beam.
The biggest advantage of a reflex sight is the lack of an eye relief.
This means that your head can be positioned anywhere, you can keep both eyes open while using the weapon, and it is extremely easy to reacquire targets.
Reflex sights are also generally somewhat cheaper than prism sights. Another pro of a reflex sight is the fact that some are available for battery-free use. The one downfall of the reflex sight is that they aren’t magnified, however, some reflex sights are sold with a paired scope that doesn’t have an aiming point.
Reflex sights are an excellent option for many different weapons uses. They are excellent for home defense or tactical uses, some hunting, and for any type of general shooting. For the average rifle user, a reflex sight is what I would recommend.
Holographic sights are not as common as reflex sights or prism sights.
A holographic sight essentially uses a picture of a reticle that is in between glass layers.
EOTech has the patent for holographic sights, so they are the only type you will see. They have a rectangular field of view and a very small reticle for aiming, which allows for more accurate shooting.
The pros of an EOTech sight are that they are extremely precise and accurate, and they are easy to use.
Similar to the reflex sights, they allow for you to shoot the weapon with both eyes open and easily reacquire targets.
The only con of EOTech sights is the price. While they aren’t much different than the basic exposed reflex sight, EOTech sights are much more expensive.
An EOTech sight costs roughly 10 times what a cheap exposed reflex sight will cost. While they are certainly better quality, my opinion is that the difference between the two isn’t enough to justify spending that much more money.
However, I would recommend EOTech sights for anyone needing extremely accurate shooting abilities, such as a competitive shooter.
There’s a reason that they are so popular with the United States military. EOTech sights are very precise, and will allow for more accurate shooting over distance.
Overall, reflex sights are often what people consider to be a “red dot sight,” despite the fact that there are THREE different styles of red dot sights.
Most people don’t know, but “red dot sight” is more of a general term than a specific kind of sight.
Reflex sights are the most common and the least expensive, but are somewhat limited. Dependent on your needs, a simple reflex sight will probably meet your needs. Prism sights are often magnified, so they are better at longer distances, but they have an eye relief. Holographic sights are similar to exposed reflex sights, but are much higher quality at a much higher cost. Exposed reflex sights can have an additional scope added, to allow for magnification.
All in all, given today’s technology, there is a reflex sight available that will meet your shooting needs, at a more affordable cost.
Sightmark is well known for their affordably priced weapon’s optics.
Initially, this made me uncomfortable, as I knew they weren’t as high quality as some other available optics.
After plenty of research and testing my friends’ optics, I eventually went with Sightmark’s Ultra Shot QD paired with a Sightmark 3x Magnifier. You can see that sightmark on my AR15 below:
For me, I knew exactly what I needed in a weapon’s optic, and knew exactly what to expect from the Ultra Shot QD.
Overall, I have not regretted this purchase whatsoever.
It has served the purpose that I bought it for, but I also realize that this sight is not for everyone. As I said previously, there are higher quality optics available, but for the average shooter, the Sightmark Ultra Shot QD will work.
My reasons for selecting the Ultra Shot QD were the affordability and the ease of use.
My thought process is that a reflex style red dot sight is nothing more than a piece of glass with a laser dot in it. If the sight can be accurately zeroed, and will hold that zero, it works.
For my purposes, I will NOT be beating up my sight, using it in foul weather, or needing overly accurate shots at 300+ meters.
Higher quality sights will be waterproof, have smaller reticles to allow for more accurate shots, and will generally be more durable.
The Ultra Shot QD does not have all of these features. However, for the average shooter, it is more than acceptable.
I use it for range shooting and some hunting with no issues. I have shot far more accurate sights, but I am still able to shoot out to 300 meters accurately using the Ultra Shot QD.
The Ultra Shot QD offers four different reticle options and multiple brightness settings.
Some of the best features are how easy it is to install, zero, and use.
The easy clip on the side of the sight allows for it to easily be attached and unattached from the railings on an average AR or other tactical style weapon. The same clip also makes it easy to tighten to fit any railing system.
Compared to some sights, this is a huge positive. However, it will not be affixed to the rail quite as tight as more expensive sights are.
Some will argue that over time, this will affect the accuracy of the sight.
My response to that, is that a knowledgeable shooter should be confirming their zero frequently anyway, so it should be extremely easy to catch and fix this issue.
However, in months of shooting this weapon, I have not had this issue. I have confirmed my zero multiple times, and never had an issue.
Zeroing the sight is a breeze. It requires an Allen wrench, but is an extremely easy sight to zero.
The sight is also extremely easy to use. For the new and experienced shooter alike, it could not be easier. Simply turn the sight on, adjust your brightness, and shoot downrange with both eyes open. It is extremely easy to acquire targets and shoot accurately.
I bought this sight in a combo pack that came with a Sightmark 3x Magnifier.
The magnifier is a separate entity (see photos below), and the user is able to slide the magnifier over if they don’t wish to use it. While this magnifier does take some getting used to, it is equally easy to use.
You will have to get used to where you are placing your head for each shot when you are using the magnifier.
However, once you have it figured out, it is a great addition to the reflex sight.
The fact that you can also slide the magnifier off to the side if you are shooting at a closer range is another awesome feature.
Similar to the reflex sight, there are much higher quality magnifiers out there, but for the average shooter, there is absolutely nothing wrong with this.
For the competitive shooter, serious hunter, and optics snobs, I would avoid this sight.
For the new shooter, basic hunter, and especially the casual plinker, this sight is perfect for you.
If you are just looking for an easy to use sight to go out and shoot targets with every once in a while, this is the sight for you. It is affordably priced, easy to use, and reliable. I have had no issues with my sight, but I also knew exactly what to expect and what I wanted it for before I got it.
Overall, this was a great purchase for me.
About the Author: This post from Robert Sagona who is Army Officer in Columbus, US. He has 2 rifle, and 2 shotgun. So amazing. He bought that product in 2016 and completely satisfied with it. So he write some review about this product and take some photo of his gun. Read my review about best gun safe for the money to pick for yourself the best,
For hunters who spend a lot of time out in the field, you’ll likely find yourself needing some sort of steady hand for your AR.
This is particularly true for hunting at higher elevation, where there is likely to be rolling hills and uneven terrain.
The best ar bipods (for both Ar10 and Ar15) are easily compacted and portable, making packing them in and out a breeze.
With the five options we’re discussing here, transport is simple and setup is quick. Let’s take a look at these top options.
But first you can take a look at it before go to the detail review for each of it.
CVLIFE Tactical Rifle Bipod Adjustable Spring Return with Adapter (Editor's Choice)
7" - 10.5"
6" - 9"
This is my review about 5 Best Bipod For Ar (For both Ar10 and Ar15) for the money, it will help you find the best for hunting. Check out it:
There’s a good level of adjustment available with this bipod, so if you need a sturdy and economical holder this is a great option for you.
A great feature of this bipod is that despite being quite small, it is one of the sturdiest available on the market. If you’re using a heavy AR or one with custom modifications, you can depend on this bipod for stability.
The adjustment range is viable for uneven terrain.
Users find the hardened steel to be of benefit when they have to fire multiple rounds at one sitting.
This is furthered when the target is on the move. While rapid movement is not ideal for this bipod (or any other), users should find that slight head bobs and other natural measures that are unavoidable are accounted for in the 6-9 inch platform.
When the wallet impact of this unit is accounted for, it is the best AR15 bipod for the money. (also good for ar10)
If you’re not hunting in a setting where views can be obstructed by natural surroundings, this bipod is NOT going to be needed. Go with a smaller bipod like the CVLIFE 6-9 inch in those scenarios.
When the height is needed, this unit is the go-to.
The swivel adaptor mounts quickly, and is versatile enough that users can incorporate flashlights and other devices into their hunt when holding the AR by hand.
The size of the bipod means it takes up more pack space.
The weight is negligible, however, and setup is fast.
Finding your comfort zone once the gun has been placed and adjustments have been made is a matter of only a moment of testing.
The springs are in the legs, making for optimum comfort.
Make sure the gun is firmly mounted because otherwise you’ll have severe accuracy issues.
Other than that, this is the best AR15 bipod which stretches above one foot. You should use your ar with best scope for ar15, it will help you have the good target.
UTG presents a basic bipod unit here, which is ideal only for certain situations.
This unit is not going to be the end all, be all for your hunting game because it is not adaptable for any varied terrain.
Using this is comfortable situations where the hunter is familiar with the area and its threats is fine, but don’t trust it for new situations.
There is only a half inch of adjustability up to 6.7 inches, so anytime more height is needed the hunter is out of luck.
Another downside of this bipod is that it is made from aluminum. In field tests, many shooters prefer hardened steel units because they aren’t going to bend or alter even after years of use.
The bottom line is that this bipod perform much better in a wider variety of circumstances.
For hunters willing to dig a little deeper into their pockets, this bipod will last a lifetime.
While the adjustment range is less than some others, it’s incredibly sturdy. Long days in the field with multiple shots won’t rattle this unit.
The best feature of this bipod is that it pans easily to follow moving targets. TipTop is able to get away with the sturdy build.
For carrying, this bipod folds easily for who have an AR10 and AR15
Compact it well and you’ll never have an issue with the space it takes up.
Mounting takes mere seconds and stands sturdy through waiting periods and intense fire.
It’s almost like they’re pulling a fast one on us because this product is so rugged and versatile but lacks the massive cost of top-notch bipods.
For hunters wanting to make a one-time purchase that will last throughout the duration of their career in the field, this is the best AR15 bipod for the money
This Harris bipod is another one that will last a lifetime and costs less than a hundred bucks. It shines with bolt action rifles on long distance hunts. Rarely will a bipod be so reliable in wait-and-fire situations from beyond the length of a Tom Brady touchdown pass.
The biggest complaint against this unit is that it only adjusts to nine inches. There are others on the market that adjust above ten, such as the TipTop unit discussed above.
Therefore, this is not the best bipod for the money. Most hunters will find more satisfaction with the Tip Top unit.
Head to head comparison
Only two of these remain in the running after a thorough comparison of their features.
The CV Life Tactical Rifle Bipod and the TipTop Tactical Rifle Bipod. It’s hard to say they are in the same class. But they both lead fields because of sturdy build and how long they will last.
The other three fall short because the developers either took short cuts in construction or charge more than the value the customer is getting.
Using a tactical AR bipod when hunting is highly encourage because it increases your ability to lay low while increasing accuracy.
The CV Life bipod will take your hunting to the next level and hardly puts a dent in the overall investment into the sport. We highly encourage it!
A share on social channels if you’ve enjoyed this article is much appreciated. Do you have experience with these units? Leave a comment below! Let’s get a discussion going.
Are you a new gun owner who is trying to figure out the right ammunition for your gun?
Well, this article will help you do just that.
Not only is it important to know the size of ammunition you need, but it is also important to consider the use you have intended for the bullets that you are picking out.
After reading this article you will know how to choose the right ammunition for your firearm based on the purpose you have in mind. So go on!!
Before getting into picking out a bullet by purpose it is important that you get the right caliber for your gun.
For guns, “caliber” means the diameter of the barrel and thus the diameter of the bullet that is going through it. Also for terminology sake, “bullet” just means the metal projectile, while the entire thing is called a cartridge.
When you purchased your firearm you probably went over this with the person you were buying the gun from. Their are a lot of different common sizes and each one is better for certain things than others.
Just remember to pick the right size bullet for your gun. The caliber is how big the diameter of the bullet is and it will match up with the barrel of your firearm. Just remember bigger bullets have more power and also cost more.
People generally have three main purposes for their firearm when it comes time to purchase ammunition.
You probably want to practice with it, go hunting with it, or use it for self defense. Depending on your purpose it will dictate some of the futures you look for when buying ammo.
If you are just going for target practice or training, then you DON'T need the most powerful bullets.
Instead you want to focus on cost of each round.
You don't want to spend a lot on rounds when just shooting them for fun.
For rifles and handguns you probably want to look at FMJ cartridges and bullets.
FMJ rounds are made with soft lead in the middle and this is surrounded with a metal shell. They are easy to make and thus they are cheap.
If you are shooting a shotgun, then you probably want to look into lightweight target loads. They generally are 7.5 shot or smaller. The pellets on the inside of the shell are normally lead unless you live in an area that requires steel shot.
Outside of cost of ammunition you also want to consider the recoil when picking out rounds for target practice.
If you are shooting all day, then your arm will get tired fast if the gun has a lot of recoil. You should probably look for small-bore rim fire ammunition and avoid magnum rounds.
If you are buying ammunition for defense, then cost is a factor, but you really want to make sure you get a round that will stop the threat as quickly as possible.
You want a round that will fire reliable and also come out with a lot of force.
A good type of rounds to use are hollow points. These bullets are designed to expand on contact making a larger hole in what they hit.
This is done by having a empty cavity in the tip of the bullet.
Not only does this make a larger wound though, it also helps with penetration and keeping the bullet in the target so no one else gets hurt.
When using a shotgun you should use buckshot rounds.
The pellets are large enough to do good damage. The key when picking out rounds for self defense though is finding ones that transfer all the energy into the target and also penetrates the target so no unintended person gets hurt.
You also want a reliable round to end the situation quickly.
For hunting you pretty much want to consider all the same factors as with self defense.
You want a bullet that will expand and produce enough damage to the animal that it will kill it quickly and humanly.
That is why if hunting with a shotgun you want to use slugs.
You should NEVER use an FMJ bullet for hunting as it won't kill the animal and it will most likely go straight through.
The difference between ammunition for hunting and defense is you need more penetration for hunting since most hunted animals are larger than humans.
For hunting more power is better,
This means picking out ammunition that produces a lot of force.
This normally means going with a larger caliber bullet.
This is something to keep in mind when purchasing a rifle or handgun if your main intention is hunting you should get something larger up front. (Pick the best handgun safe for the money to keep safety)
So now that you have finished reading this article you should be able to choose the right ammunition for your firearm depending on your purpose.
The two factors to consider when picking out ammunition is caliber of the bullet and also your use for the firearm.
If you are hunting, then you need to get a larger caliber gun.
If you are using it for self defense, then you want reliable rounds that will cause enough damage to end the situation quickly.
If you are just target practicing, then you can go with cheaper FMJ rounds in the caliber for your gun.
Even though there are a lot of different types of bullets there is really only a few uses for them, so you should be able to figure out the right firearm for you now and the right rounds for it.
The marketplace for Biometric gun safes is seemingly ever-expanding. There are so many products available that it can be tough to figure out exactly which one is the best buy.
As an experienced shooter, I’m going to provide a full review off the sentry safe biometric quick access pistol safe model # qap1be
But first I’d like to take a moment to emphasize a couple important questions to ask when searching for the best gun safe for you:
What you’ll find here is one of the most reliable safes on the market, no matter which option you choose. I have the two pistol version, but have used the Biometric option much also.
I’ll break down these versions and the situations each is better for here in this article.
First, quick check 5 option of this Sentry Pistol Safe
This is the contemporary masterpiece of the SentrySafe pistol safe line.
I’ve never heard of a standard pistol that wasn’t easily accessible in two shakes of a rabbit’s tail with this version.
I’ve tested this safe in a variety of different situations. Staged emergencies, calm openings, finger pressed at odd angles. The safe performed well in all of these situations, and I’ll break them down here:
The override key provides great backup access in the instance that your finger is too sweaty to successfully open the lock.
Scan family member’s fingerprints when you’ll be gone.
What you should do is keep a handkerchief either on or right by the safe and grab it with your scanning finger before trying to open the safe.
If you’re worried about sweat altering the reading, this is a great solution to the problem.
This product is the best biometric gun safe on the market now!
This version is basically the same as the Biometric option except it’s got a coded entry instead.
Set your code and be sure to remember it, because even with the override you’ll lose several seconds getting the thing open if you have to use the backup option.
I suggest keeping the code similar to a bank card or online passcode that you’ve memorized and will never forget.
The only benefit of this safe over the previous option is that there is no chance of the finger being misread, or of someone else opening it with their fingerprint.
You can give the code to your family members so that they can access in an emergency, which my neighbor did successfully while he was out of town recently.
His son got into the safe and retrieved the gun, using it in self-defense as a scare tactic but not firing.
Some people just don’t trust technology when it comes to their guns. If that is you, but you still want the convenience of this SentrySafe product, get the keyed lock version.
The opening is quiet, and although it’s less quick than the Biometric version because you’ve got to put the key in the hole, it’s still rather fast.
One thing to note here is that in an emergency situation, grabbing your key and identifying the keyhole can be a challenge in a pinch.
This is especially true if your hands are sweaty.
Therefore, I highly recommend the Biometric version (or at the very least, the Electronic Lock version).
Your argument is probably that the technology might fail right when you need it most. But the odds of that happening are far less than the chances of human error – you mess up a lot more than a computer does.
I also always ask, if you’re worried about security, why do you have the key to your safe sitting on a chain attached to the safe? Doesn’t seem to smart, does it? Other than that, the keyed lock safe is just as good as SentrySafe’s other options. Here’s a great video review of the safes.
The TWO pistol capacity option is ideal for if you and your partner both need to store a gun with quick access.
It provides the same single-hand access as the other versions, which doesn’t really do much for the second person but is still convenient.
I call attention to the Sleep Mode – it takes only one quick touch to wake and be ready to open, but it’s important to remember that touch because otherwise you’ll go through the opening sequence at the wrong time.
If you’re an ammo freak like me and prefer to always have extra ammo available at a moment’s notice, than this safe is ideal for you because of the space it offers.
I own this version and only keep one gun in it most of the time, using the rest of the space for storage of ammo.
I have a large shelf in the bedroom where I’ve mounted this safe so that any intruder to my home will never make it into the bedroom. It’s quiet, but if you find a squeak begins to happen on opening, just take some WD-40 to the gears and you’ll be fine.
It's also the best handgun safe for the money in this time.
SentrySafe’s Quick Access Pistol safe is the best pistol safe available on the market, particularly in its class.
The variety of options proves that SentrySafe really cares about its customers and their concerns.
There is literally something for everybody here. I always encourage the modern tech variety, and push you to consider the Biometric option for most situations.
If you’ve enjoyed this article, please share on your social channels so that others can learn of the different options SentrySafe has provided here. Leave a comment and tell me which one is your favorite!
The Glock 18 is among the most popular handguns on the market for its purposes.
The weapon was originally developed in Austria and introduced in 1982. I first bought a Glock in the early 1990s, after persuasion from a friend whom I’d been visiting the shooting range with frequently.
Granted, it wasn’t an 18, because they’re near impossible to get.
But it was a Glock, and my buddy had been using one for a few years and loved it. He noted that I would see an increase in enjoyment and accuracy during my shoots.
Let’s take a look at why the Glock 18 is such a legendary piece of equipment, and what separates it from guns that are actually available in the US.
The Glock 18 is a 9mm chambered gun. Made to be full size, these babies are fully automatic and thus fully illegal for the average citizen to buy.
The full-auto component is the main thing separating the Glock 18 from the Glock 17. Anyone who tells you they’ve shot an 18 is probably full of it and has probably only shot a 17. Unless, of course, they’ve got military or police experience.
Basically, the Glock 18 is one of the most badass pistols ever produced. If you’ve never seen one fired before, check out this video. It will get your heart pumping!
The Glock originally was built to meet the needs of the Austrian army after World War II.
They were looking to upgrade their standard issue pistol to be self-loading and have a capacity of eight rounds.
The Glock, as it is commonly referred to as, is specifically designed to be one of the safest pistols available. It can be dropped from a height of over 4 feet without firing.
Additionally, the gun is built to resist just about any type of accidental fire. If you are have a glock pistol, i recommend you buy the best pistol safe for the money to keep it safe.
The 9mm Glock 18 automatic can fire 1200 rounds minute – not going to be easy to acquire that one! There have been different models and multiple generations of Glock guns produced over the years, none as legendary as the 18.
Because of its popularity spanning four decades now, Glock 18 shooters have the luxury of being able to modify their gun rather easily.
I’ve got a tactical light on mine that was easy to put on the front rail and has made accuracy and line of sight a non-issue in most situations.
My buddy that got me into the Glock 18 has upgraded his magazine capacity. All this took was a trip to the gun store and a quick consult with the guy behind the counter. He’s also got a real nice pouch that he bought at the shop which fits the increased magazine capacity with no discomfort.
The manufacturer has released upgrades for release levers, trigger upgrades, and even spring cups that prevent the day being ruined by water getting into the firing pin assembly channel.
Not a bad list of ways to ensure you’ve got the best pistol available. Most of this stuff is a bit much for simple range practice. But us gun fanatics can never have enough toys to complete the setup and increase our leg to stand on in weapon conversations.
The simple answer here is: not very easy, at least for the Glock 18s of lore. Here is a quick rundown:
The moral of the story here is that you’re not going to get one. Unless you’ve got a lot of money, power, or are in a law enforcement or military profession. But hey, we can all dream. Right?
I’m guessing that this article has you pretty excited about the prospects of shooting a Glock 18.
If you ever get the opportunity to do so, definitely take advantage of it. I’m a Glock enthusiast and can’t recommend it any higher.
Please help us share the stoke – share this article on your social media channels and encourage people to check it out.
Do you have a story to tell about shooting a Glock 18? Go ahead and leave a comment below and tell us all about it. I bet we can get a diary’s worth of stories here. Bonus points to anyone who has a story of using it professionally in the field – thank you for your service and we look forward to hearing your story.
Full metal jacket or hollow point? This frequent topic of debate is one of the few gun-related topics that actually has fact-based evidence to support both sides of the argument.
I love hollow point bullets and carry them in my concealed weapon. I also like to use them out in the field, and will get into the reasons why in this article.
What many people don’t understand is that there are significant differences between these types of bullets. Let’s take a look at what those differences are, and when each type is preferable over the other.
Simply put, full metal jacket ammo is frequently made of a soft lead core built inside of a shell made up of hard metal such as cupronickel or gilding metal.
The general preference for this type of bullet often stems from the desire for increased muzzle velocity. These bullets maintain their composure and trajectory better than almost any others on the market.
In some cases, full metal jacket ammo contains a steel alloy casing.
FMJ bullets are incredibly strong – it is difficult for metal piercing substances to damage the bore of the bullet.
This, combined with the fact that these bullets do not expand upon hitting their target, makes them ideal for target shooting. Instead of expansion causing the bullet to slow and stop inside the target, full metal jacket bullets pass through and continue on a trajectory.
Full metal jacket ammo is cleaner than unjacketed bullets.
Everything within the bullet is fully concealed. All that has to do with the shooting process is smooth and straightforward, perfect for semi-autos.
For a 9mm, full metal jacket ammo is cleaner and stronger than hollow point.
Hollow point ammo is preferred by hunters and those in defensive situations because it expands upon impact.
This type of ammo maximizes the stopping power of the shot. Targets are crippled and immobilized much more so than they are with full metal jacket ammo, increasing the odds of kill and of a successful hunt.
The expansion is caused by the hallow shape in the tip of the bullet. This allows the internal organs and tissue of the target to be severely impacted and wounded. Penetration is minimized.
For maximum power, many experienced shooters like to use jacketed hallow point bullets.
I personally have found these bullets extremely effective, as the added layer of metal delivers more impact than they otherwise have. What you will find as you progress as a shooter is that hollow point ammo is more versatile than full metal jacket in many situations.
For a 9mm, hollow point bullets are better for shoot to kill and self-defense situations.
Here’s a demonstration of the two.
Full metal jacket ammo has a bit of a sexy appeal to it.
New shooters are attracted by media coverage and the 1987 movie of the same name. It’s proven successful and useful in many military situations and other scenarios.
However, many experienced shooters as well as concealed carry activists prefer hollow point bullets. Let’s take a look at the breakdown:
If you’re planning to head to the gun store to buy some basic ammo for your concealed carry gun or next hunt, the best thing to do is go with hollow point. You’ll find more uses and will have less trouble locating waste and hit targets.
Here is a great video comparing the two.
As you’ve seen here, there is quite a difference in full metal jacket vs hollow point bullets. I hope you’ve gained a better understanding of them.
The general takeaway here is that hollow point bullets expand on contact and thus are more preferable for day-to-day situations because they reduce the risk of hitting targets downfield.
Full metal jacket bullets are stronger and cleaner, and generally better for situations when downfield unintentional targets are not an issue.
If you’ve enjoyed this article, please give it a share on social media. The more education and knowledge we can build in the gun community, the better for all. I’d love to hear about which you prefer – feel free to throw a comment down below and we’ll get a conversation going.
What separates a semi-automatic gun from a fully automatic machine gun?
Both of them reload automatically, hence the ‘auto’ label.
The main difference between a semi-automatic and a fully automatic machine gun is that on a semi-automatic, the user must pull the trigger each time he or she wishes the gun to fire.
But let’s dive a little deeper into the two types of weapons and uncover other similarities and differences, as well as uses for both semi-auto vs full-auto guns.
What it all comes down to is the ‘action’ on the gun. This refers to the operation of how a gun fires a bullet, ejects the cartridge, and reloads the next round.
Both of these types of guns handle the reloading part in an automated fashion. But the firing is where the difference is.
By definition, a machine gun refers to the fully automated version, which will continue to fire bullets until empty. Therefore, a semi-auto cannot technically be labeled as a machine gun.
Here is a great video on the differences between semi-auto and full-auto.
In the United States, full-auto weapons are typically only available to the military and law enforcement agencies.
The typical armed citizen cannot walk into a gun store and buy a full-auto machine gun.
The process of obtaining one requires extensive permitting and background checks, typically in line with the needs of the police or military.
Individual citizens can attempt to obtain the permitting necessary to purchase a fully automatic weapon, but there is certainly no guarantee of success. Semi-automatic guns can be purchased by citizens who pass the background check and process for obtaining one, and cooperate with any waiting periods or restrictions in the area where they live and are purchasing the gun.
This video explains how a semi-automatic gun works.
Commonly, semi-automatic guns are shotguns, pistols, and rifles.
These types of guns work well with the automated reload and have a trigger conducive to quick pull and fire. Some will be recoil operated.
This refers to guns that have a locked breach, and are auto-loading. The automatic loading cycle is powered by the recoil.
The force of the shot recoils, emptying the chamber of the used casing and allowing the new bullet to load.
Others are powered by gas instead of recoil. The gas yoked from the fired round drives a piston into the weapon’s barrel. This pushes out the used shell, making room for the new one, which is automatically loaded from either the internal or external magazine by pressure.
No matter which type of power a shooter has in their semi-auto gun, no cocking or additional effort is needed to load the new round.
Here is a video on how a full-auto AK works.
There has been much conversation back and forth about whether machine guns, fully automatic, have a viable role in society. If so, what is that role?
Outside of law enforcement and military, there isn’t much of an argument that can succeed at a legal level, at least not right now. But gun hobbyists and fanatics don’t need to get all up in a tiff about it. Semi-automatic guns are honestly pretty impressive these days.
What’s wrong with a little trigger finger exercise? As fast as you can pull, you can shoot round after round until the magazine is empty.
Plus, unless you’re in California or another spot that outlaws them, gun owners can employ a multi-burst trigger activator to make the shooting process even faster.
With these handy gadgets, recoil is a breeze and shooters notice a significant improvement in shooting speed without much effect on their accuracy – provided they’ve got the shoulder for increased pressure.
Plus, the skill of mastering a semi-auto is something that’s definitely worth bragging about if you can back it up at the range. Trigger masters command a great deal of respect in gun circles.
Many of today’s finest shooters use semi-automatic weapons with the speed and finesse of a machine gun – to the point that it takes a keen eye to tell the difference.
Semi-auto vs full-auto is going to be an ongoing conversation in gun circles.
Hopefully this article has given you a better understanding of the difference between the two, and of their important place in society. If you’ve enjoyed this article, please share across your social media channels.
Remember that next time someone at the range starts rambling about machine guns, they are probably full of it. You now can correct them on the fact that a semi-auto is not technically a machine gun. The more knowledge in the gun community, the better.
And i have write a post about best gun safe for the money, you should choose the best for your gun.
I’d love to get some fresh takes on people’s favorite semi-autos as well as machine guns, so feel free to drop a comment below with what you’re shooting. Also note what you hope to be shooting next time you get a nice bonus at work.